An account of several travels through a great part of Germany : in four journeys ... : wherein the mines, baths, and other curiosities of those parts are treated of : illustrated with sculptures

account

0 F

Several Travels

Through a great part of

In Four Journeys.

I. From Norwich to Cohn.

II. From Cohn to Vienna , with a particular'
Defcription of that Imperial City,

III. FromTirwna to Hamburg.

IV. From Cohn to London.

WHEREIN

The Mines, Baths , and other Curiofities of thofe
Parts are Treated of.

Illuftrated with Sculptures .

By EDWARD BROWN U.D. Fellow ®f the
College of Phyficians of London, and of the
Royal Society.

LONDON ,

Printed for Benj. Teeke, and are to be fold at the Sign of
the ship in St. Raul's Church-yard. 1677.

Imprimatur,

G.fane R.P, D. Hen.
Epi Cc.Lond. a Sacris
Dom.

Sept. 2 <5,
167 6.

to THE

READER.

^^^^Aving given the Englijh World
i|g|i an Account of form remote and
feldome travelled Countries of
Europe } in the Year , 1675.
I remained indifferent ,as to the publishing
any thing more , concerning nearer y or bet-
ter Jptown placer; a great part whereof
hath been delivered by fome good 3 and
obferving Writers ; upon which confide-
ration3 though written fome years fence ,
thefe Papers have not come abroad and
had (till remained private , had not the
defires of Friends folicited this Publica-
tion, and alfo a Promife in my former
B>oo\obligdme to fay fomethingof Vi-
enna , as libgwife my Journey unto that
Place from England^ the Belgian Pro-

A 2 vinces

To the Reader.

vinces and Germany • and of my Return
from Vienna by Auftria Trans- Danu-
biana , Moravia , Bohemia, Mifnia,
Saxonia, unto Hamburg ; hereof l have
therefore given fome Account in this
Wor if, not much engaging into the Policy
and State Government of Places , -which
have been fo largely delivered, as to maty;
up juft olumesfiut have rather fet down
what is Naturally , Artificially, Hiflori-
cally , and T Geographically remarkable ;
together with fome Cufomes and Oc cur-
rencies which might be acceptable unto
the Inquifitive Reader, or ferve as hints
of further Enquiry , to fetch Perfons as
may hereafter Travel into thofe Parts.

A

C « )
A

JOURNEY

FROM

NORWICH

T O

COLEN in GERMANY .

N the year 1668. 1 left the large and
pleafant City of Norwich ? and went
by land to Yarmouth a Port Town in
Norfolk , at the mouth of the River
Hierus or Yare$ large, fairly built and
populous , very confiderable for
the great Herring fifliing in the Au-
tumn, and the commerce it maintain-
eth in theStreights ; Baltick , Britijh and German Sets:
With Italians , Frenchy Spaniards, Dutch , Vanes, and
Swedes ♦ I was here nobly entertained by that worthy
and obliging perfon , Sr. lames Iohnfon , who alfo fur-
nifh’c me with letters of Credit , to Amfierdam 5 Franck-
fort , Venice and Vienna $ Whereby I was readily and
handsomely accommodated in all Parts where I had af-
terwards occafionto travel,

B -Augufi

(Oi

Augufi the 14. about fix a clock at night I went a-
board the Jngel-Ketch in Tarmouth Road , a VtfiTel of a-
bout^sTuns, and we immediately fee fay I for Rotter-
dam', we left St, Nicholas- Savd on the Larboard, arid
after th at the Nowlcs , a new Sand , 'nos taken notice of
to be ras fed above twelve years before. We kept our
courfeall mght , Eaft and by South and Eaft South-Eaft.
The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at (he beginning
of the night, but the Moon nfvng there appeared nothing
but froth. In the morning we difeovered Gravefandt
Steeple- It is theenftom upon all this coaft to fend out
Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea , and
iurnifli them with Py lots to bring them through the lands,
and no Ship is torefufeone: Having taken in our Pylor,
wefoon difeovered Goree Steeple, and then the Erie/. We
entred the River Mo ft , or Maes , a Large and noble
Stream, which arifing in the Mountaines of Vauge , or
Vfgefas , pafiing by Verdun , Dinant , Namur, Liege ,
Maejlricbt , Ruremond , Venlo , and many confiderable
Places , doth here fail into the Ocean, we had a very
pleafant paflage up the River , fay ling by many neat Vil-
lages , as Maefe-jiuySy Schedam , Delfshaven , andhand-
fome rowes of Trees upon the fliore, and arrived at Rot-
terdam about fix at night. This is one of the three chief
palTages by Sea into Holland^ the other being by
Flujhing and the T exelL The neareft cut out of Eng •
land into Holland is from Laifloffe Point to Grave -
fandt , which is 28 Leagues., and the deepeft part
of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms. There lay two of thegrea-
teft Ships in Holland at that time near Rotterdam , the
Crane and the WaJJenaer ; this latter built in lieu of that
in which Admiral Of dam was blown up, fighting againft
his Royal Highnefs the Duke of Torke. The Heads or
Keyes between which we entred the towneby w ater are

handfome

( 3 )

bandfome , and Ships of great burden are received into
the middle of divers ftreets without difficulty , ( their
Channels being deep and large) the houfes are well built,
and the town Populous , they have an Exchange or place
for Merchants to meet at , the ftreets are fo clean that the
Women goe about in white Slippers, they being paved
with Bricks laid edgwife. The Landthuife hath a fair
front. In the great Church the Organs , the Tower and
the Monument of De wit , upon the Bridge the Statue of
Erafmus , as alfo the houfe where he was born , and the
Pleafure boats of the States are worth the feeing* It be»
ing then the timeof theii Kermis or Faire , there were
playes afted and many rarities fhewn.as Lions , Leonards,
8cc, and a great noife was made about a tall Woman to be
fhewn offeven foot high ; but the Boor of Leckertyrk^
not far from this town , was higher Parfons and Evans ,
porters to King Charles the firft,did a’fj exceed her , but
I have feldom heard of any that was taller than ^Martin
Wierwfki a Polander, who at the age of forty two years
was prefented to the Emperour ^Maximilian the fecond*
as a rarity of nature, and was full eight foot high ? whofe
pifture,as big as the life, I faw,near to the Francifcans Con-
vent at Vienna in Auftria.

From Rotterdam I pafled by Overfchee to Delft , by
the Powderhoufe , which is a handfome one , built now
at fomediftancefrom the towne to prevent the like acci-
dent which befell when the former took fire and blew up
part of the town. The Piazza or market- place is a very
fairone, having the front of the town houfe at one end
of it, and the highfteepleof the new Church at the o-
ther. In the old Church, Van-Tromps Tom.be is very
well carved upon thefideof the Wall , himfelf lying up-
on a Canon encompaffed with Arms and trophies.
In the middle Ifle of the new Church there is a noble

B 2 monument

<4)_

monument, the Tombe of William of PJaJJaw Prince
of Orange, together with his Wife and Son, Prince
Maurice^ his Statua is in armour with bisDog at his feet,
and four Obelisks are fupported by ten Marble pillars.
In a houfeofthis Town there were fhewn me in aWali
the marks of the bullets (hot at Prince William ,
who was thereby munhered 1584. and in another
Church which was broad and fpacious I faw a handfome
Tomb for Sr. Charles Morgans Lady, and the Monument
of Veter Hein the Admiral , who took the Spanijb Silver-
fleer.

The Hague, Haga Comttis , the ancient place of Refi-
dence of the Counts of Holland , and now of the States ge.
neral; is about an h:ursgoing diftant from Delft ; in
which pa(Tage,at fomediftance,\ve had a fight of two of the
Prince of Orange's houfes. This placeis well built; the
Prince’s Court handfome ; The Piazza by it full of green
trees ; many fair Houfes. TheCourfe where the Coach-
es meet, the Pall-mall , the Wood, the Fark, do much
beautify it, and the way from hence to Scheveling , from
whence his Majefly returned into England^svexy remark-
able , it being a (Wight way cut [hrough the Sand-hills,
and paved with Brick for three miles, having on each
hand four or five rows of Trees , and Scheveling Steeple
at the end ofir.

The Hague and Madrid in Spain are accounted the
greatefi: Villages, or open unwalled places, in Europe, and
the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Malleus
of the greatefi: Village, thanofaplace which, if it were
walled , would come fliort of many Cities; but this may
prove a dangerous refolution, for formerly upon this ad-
vantage, Martin van Roj[em, Captain to the Duke of
Gueldres , facked the Hague 3 and it was lately in the like
danger when the French Forces lay at Utrecht and \Vor-

C 5 )

den> if chey had forced a pifTage into shit part of Holland ,
Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the
Hague , ac prefentoneof theneateft Towns in Europe \
Well built , hath divers large Streets, beautified with
rowes of Trees , and the water pafling through the middle
of them . andalfo well fortified after the modern way; I
took notice ofihat Antiquity called Ihngijt Caftle , or
the Berg , faid eo be built by Hengijl ih % Saxon, and
went up to the top thereof ; Upon the top there is now
an Arbour, and a Maze or Labyrinth round it, and a We ll,
out of 'which , they told us, they took a Fifh alive- when
the Town was almoft faimfhed during thefiege, which
was Hie wed to the Enemy over the wail , endeavouring to
make their condition to appear better than it was , and
to difhearten the befiegers. There are now handfon e
fiairs from the top to the bottom, and a good houfe
built by it , where they have their publick Tales and en-
tertainments* But a nobler Antiquity lie r h under the Sea,
than any above ground ; not far from hence near Catwyck
is a fquare fort rtfs called Jrx Britannia, built by Caligu*
U\ in the declining of the Romm Empire ruined in part
by the Normans, and afterwards negieded5& overwhelm-
ed by the Sea. But imfome years* and great retire of
the Sea , the mines have been difeovered , and many no-
ble Antiquities brought from it, fume having this in-
feriprion Ex. Ger> Inf. ex Germania inferiori. The
Stadthuije hath a fair front towards the ftreet. In the
Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeleton s.
Two legs of an Elephant. The Skeleton of a young
Whale , ofa Horfe , Deer , Cow , Cat, Eox , and many
other Animals; divers Skeletons of Men and Women, fome
bodies preferved with their Mufcles, and one intire , the
flefii , skinandal! parts defended from corruption* I
fawalfohere what Monfieur de Bils pretended towards

the

C 6 )

the prefervation of Bodies , but more accurately after-
wards at Dr. Ruifch his houfe at Amjlerdam The Pbyfick-
garden, although but final!, is well filled with Plants, where
are alfomany other both natural 3 and artificial! Curio-
fities to be feen, and many forts of Of tick -glaffes.
Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the
Officina Elzevirian* on the top. In the Churches I
faw the Monuments of many famous men. There is a
Pifiure in the Chamber for the Burgermafiers, reprefenc-
ingtheday of Judgment, drawn by Lucas van Leyden ,
fomuch efteemed that, it is faid, the Emperour Rn»
dolfhus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as
would have covered it. The Table alfo upon which John
of Leyden wrought whilft he was a Taylor, is a Curiofity,
becaufe he proved afterwards fo confiderable a diffurber
of Germany, and came to be King ofth t Anabaptifls.

This City endured a hard fiege by the Spanijh forces,
and they were reduced unto great extremity, but they
faved chemfelves by overflowing the Country, and fo
forcing the Enemies to make away with great lofs ; and
afterwards coy ned a memorial-Medalt with thislnfcrip-
tion.

Ut Senacherib a Jerufalem, /ic Hifpani a Ley da noffu fa-
gerunt * 1574.

From Leyden I came to Haerlem , a neat City , plea-
fantly feated and having a Grove near it. The great
Church is efteemed the largeft in Holland, with a very
high Lanthorn upon it. Within are many Infcriptions and
Monuments , moft of which are tranfcr bed and fet down
in Gotfr* Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum . In the Prin-
ce’s houfe are aM the Ear es of Hoi and Painted upon the
wall, and in the Garden in the Summer-houfe , the Pift-
ureof Laurentius Cojlerm , who is faid to have firfi: in-
vented the art of Printing in this Town 3 but others attri-
bute

( 7 )

bute it to Johannes Gottenberg , a German, On the ci-
ther fide there is a Figure of a Ship with Saws , in* memo-
ry of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly ta-
ken by thofe of this Town , who, as they report, accom-
panied Frederick E a? bar ojfa in an expedition againft the
Saracens , and w hen the men of Felujium or I) ami at a had
chained up their Port, by this invention of fanning
(hong Paws to the keels of their Ships , they cut the
chains in funder 5 and fo took the Town, fn the rooms
are very good Paintings by liemskerk , and Goltzius , as
his J Prometheus and other Peeces ; but Cornelius van
Haerlem rnoft delighted me, in his peeces of Rerods kil-
ling the Innocent Children; his feaft of the Gods, in
which Vu leans foot, is eftcemed at a great rate 3 and ano*
ther Picture of a Frier and a Nunata Collation, not infe-
riour to the reft.

The old Mens houfe , or an Hofpital for fixty aged
perfons , is large and handfome ; having a good Qua-
drangle and a Garden in it. The Hofpital alfo for the
fick is very cleanly kept.

Here 1 fir ft faw the manner of punifbing Malefaft-
oursby whipping them with rods , which is more fe-
vere than I imagined ; they lead them to a Port upon a
fcaffold , their hands tyed and by a pully drawn up as
high as they can be extended, and then an Iron faftned a*
bout their waft to keep them fteady; in wTich firetched’
out poll ure they receive fometimes fifty or fixty ftripes
or more , according to the merit of t heir offence*

Not far from this place there is a great Water , or no.
ted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty miles in
length , w’hich is frozen over in hard Winters , and men
fwiftly travel over it by Aiding, or in fleds. When Haer-
lem was befteged there was a Naval fight upon it ; The
Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Veffels, and the

Spaniards

C 8 )

Spaniards not many fewer. The Town was afterwards
taken by Compofition , but fuch cruelty was ufed by the
Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it.

From Haerlem 1 went to Jlmjlerdam , a City at pre*
fent for Riches, Trade, Shipping , fair Streets, and
pleafant habitations, fcarce yielding to any other of the
World .It is feared upon the River Y e , and hath its name^
as Vis reported, from a CafHe appertaining longfince to
the Lords of to whomthis place a lfo belonged:

At the beginning, the feat of a few fifliermen ; but after-
wards increafmg, it received many priviledges from the
Counts of Holland, and was made a Town or City by the
favour of their Grams and Charters. In the year 1470.
it was walled about with a Brick-wall ? to defend it a-
gaintt the Citizens of Utrecht, they having been in great
danger to have fallen into their hands , if thofe of Utrecht
had purfued their victories* la few Months after alfo,
the whole Town was altroft reduced to Afhes by fire, but
by the incre3fe of their Traffick they eafiiy overcame
thefe loiTes , waded through all difficulties, and rcndred
good fervices to their Counts , and received the honour
afterwards from Maximilian theEmperour to have the
Imperia 11 Crown over their Armes, which are three Crofi
fes on a Pale

About the year 1525. Gelenfcnt from the new King
ofMu n [ier, pa (Ted chr ov.ghFr iejland and came to thisCity;
where having made a party, and communicated his de-
fign 3 herefolved to furprize the Town by night , at the
time of the founding of the Bell ; to which intent they
were already cntred the Market place , had fet upon the
Town houfe ; and cut in pieces thofe who refitted them.
When by great providence the rope to the great Bell was
taken away ; the Magiftrateshad notice of it, and caufed
all the flreets and Avenues leading to the Market-place to

be

CO

be flopped up with Woolfaeks and Hopfack^ whereby
they werehindred in their defign of taking the Town by
Highland the next morning their number being difcover-
ed to be inconfiderable, they were Pet upon, driven into
the Stadthutf,and defeated.

Of late years this City is mightily encreafed and en-
.compared with a new Wall5and fortified after the modern
way* Thenew Streets are large and uniform : and the
/whole Town being in a low Marfiy ground, the water is
let in through all the confiderable Streets. The River
jimftel pafTeth through the City, being let in under a
handfome well-contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches, which
is fo built as to make part of the Wall and Rampart,
and is 26 paces broad. The whole Town is built upon
Piles, or high Firr-trees, driven down perpendicularly
into the Earth fo thick together, that nothing more can
be forced in between them : And by this means they build
Houfes in the Sea, and lay Foundations ftrong enough to
fupport the greateft Buildings wbatfocver, in places
where no folid bottom is to be found. But they mufl:
needs be at a great expence and labour before they can
lay the firft Scone : And the number of Trees required
to each Foundation is confiderable 5 fincefor the Foun-
dation of one Tower or Steeple alone, over againft the
Church of Sc. Katherine , Mr. J. de Pariva[l,whQ wrote
Les Delicesdela HoUande , reckoneth that there was ram-
med into the ground a ForreJly as he calls if, of Six thou-
fand three hundred and thirty four great Trees. About
this manner of work, for the fixing their Foundations*
I fa w them employed in divers places, particularly at
the Eafi- India* honfe y and at a place where a Lutheran
Church was thendefigned to be built. So that it was not
improbably Paid, That if a man could fee all under thk

r eater Forreft.
C

The

hoy

The StaMuuor TcwK-houfe, is the nobJeft Building
in all theft Countries. A Pile of Freeftoneof an hundred
and ten paces in Front, being larger than the Magnified
Front of the Church of St. Peter s at Rome > and eighty
one paces deep, or on the Tides. The Chambers in it ,
the Figures and Statues are worthy to be Teen and admi-
red, The firjft Room on the right hand, or 'judgment-
hall, where the Malefactors receive their Sentence, is a-
dorned with large Statues, hanging down their heads in
mournful poflures, as if concerned or grieving at what
was then pronounced. The Floors are of Marble ; the
Roofs are richly giTc and painted. Upon the top of all
ftands jftlas or Columlm, holding a Globe upon his fhoul-
dtr made of Copper, of about ten foot Diameter, which
Isas large perhaps as any Ball or Globe what foe ver em-
ployed to this ornamental ufe. That upon St. Peter's at
Rom, as having been in it, I judge to be lefts as like-
wife that at Florence. The Turkifh Ornament to the
Tower of their Mofqttes-, is three Balls one above another,
and ah half Moon over them, but they are lefs by far, at
leafl fucbas I havefeen : and by relation from Eye wic-
nefies, the largefl: of the three noble gilded Balls atMo-
ncco are inferiour to this. But I will fay nothing
more of this great building , the Stadthuis , fi nee
there is a peculiar defeription of it in Folio , with Cuts
and Figures of the moft remarkable Curiofities in it.
The Exchange is fair and large, and above it are Shops:*,
it is very well frequented5and he that cometh after twelve
pay eth fix ftivers*

Divers oftheir Churches are fair: In the new Church, !
the partition with Ballifters of Brafs, and the carved Pul-
.pit, are noble. In the old Church the Tomb of Van
Bulfr and Heemker 4 are remarkable* Heemskerk did
lis Country great Services in their firft attempts upon in*

^ dia tz ;

(llj

dia : for the King of Spain having confifcated fotue of the
Hollander $ Ships, who traded to his Dominions , which
were then the Staple for the India Trade. 1 1 was refol ved
by thepermiffion of Prince Maurice and the States, to fee
out a Fleet of eight (hips for the Indies ; four of which
were to pads by the way of the J.tlantick Ocean, and the
Cape of Goo^ hope : And the other four were to fearch a
paffage towards the Kingdoms of Cathay and china by
the North*eaft, whereby the paffage alfo into thofe parts
might be expected much (barter chan that which was
known to the Spaniards .

To this intent thefe four Jafi vefiels failed out of the
2Vjc ely June 5. i <94. and returned in September , not be-
ing able to proceed by reafon of the Ice. But upon the
relation of the Voyage by William Barenfon, there were
two ocher Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla\ in
tbeiaftof which they wintered there, and Barenfon loft
his life. Heemskerk was the chief of the twelve which
returned from that cold habitation, where none but Bears
and Foxes could well endure the Winter, where he had
been twice, and afterwards made two rich Voyages into
India^Upon whofe happy returns the Holland. Eajl-lndia
Company was firft eftablilhed, and a prohibition made
for any other of that Country to trade thither for the
fpace of One and twenty years.

But to proceed to other publick Buildings in thisCi-
ty. The ‘luchthuis or Rajpelhuk , or Hou fe of Correftion
for debauched young men, fuch as are incorrigible and dif-
obedient to Parents or Laws, hath at the entrance of the
Gate two Lions bridled, a proper Embleme^ with this
Infcription, Virtutis eftdomare qu£ cuntii pavent* This
was formerly a Monaftery belonging to the Nuns of the
Order of St, Clare, and converted to this ufe 1595* They
who are put in. are forced to work and gain their Bread

C 2 with

with hard labour, I faw thofe who rafped Brazil, having*
a certain task fet them every day, work fo hard, that be-
ing naked and in a fweat,and the duft of the Brazil* wood
flying upon them , they were all over painted of a beau-
tiful red colour. Which odd fight made me call to rhind'
thePhanfieof my Lady Marcbionefs of Newcajile , of a
Nation wherein the People were ofOrange-tawny colour,
and the King of Purple.

They told usthatfome that were committed to their
charge, and rsot to be brought to work by blows ,
they placed in a large Cifrern, and let the water in upon
them, placing only a Pump by them for their relief,
whereby they are forced to labour for their lives, and to
free thcmfelves from drowning. One we faw put into a*
sarrow Dungeon, and kept from mear. Some are put into
this Houfe for a longer time, fome for a fhorter. Ic hath’
been a punishment for fuchas have drawn their Daggers,
or offered to flab any one. And fome Citizens , though
able and ricfrenough, contrive it fo, that when their Sons
are extravagant and mafterlefs, the Officers feize upon
them, and carry them into this Houfe, where they are not
forced to any hard labour, but kept in till theyfee fbf-
ficient figns of amending their life.

This way of Correftion may feem fevere to many , yet
is not comparable to that which isfaidto have been for-
merly ufed in Germany Particularly at Cohn, in the
white Tower $ at the North end of the Town, near the
Rhine ; where it is reported, that fuch Youths who
were not otherwife to be reclaimed, were in a barbarous
manner fliuc up in the white Tower. The height and
tbicknefs of the walls fecured them from efcaping, or
from their complaints being heard. Near the top was
placed out of their reach a loaf of bread, the laft remedy
againfl flarving, which while their bold' necefficy forced
• v'v. " ’ •• 0“ ' them-

*3 )

med their- laft ftntence Upon
themfelves, andmiierably brake their own necks.

Somewhat like th zRaJpelhuit is t\\z-'$pwhuisjQi Houfe
of Correction, for the young women who live loofely,
are taken in the nights or can give no account of their
living. They are put in for a certain time, according as
their fault meriteth, and are bound to make lace, few, or*
employ their time perpetually in fome boneft labour,

Thofeof the better fort are permitted to have Cham-
bers apart. In one large Room 1 faw about an hundred
of them, and fome very well drefled and fine, which
was an unexpected fight to me, and would fure be more4
ftrange to behold in France and England.

The WeeJhuM) or Hofpital for Children , where there
are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked afcer,and well
educated.

The Dolbm, or a Houfe for iuch as are Delirious , Mas
jriaca!, orMelan'cholical of both Sexes.

Th t'Gaflhuk, or Hofpital for the Sick, being 'large, and
hath a great Revenue.

The Mannenhuu, or Hofpital for old Men , and fucbf
as are no longer able to labour towards their own fup-
port.

Belides all which , there are great Sums of mony col-
le&ed for the poor, fo that there is not a Begger to be'
feen in the Streets, and upon all afiignations or appoint-
ments of meeting at the Tavern, orelfewhere, and uporf
many other occafions, whofoever faileth to come at the
exaft time , forfeiteth more or !ef$ to the ufe of the
Poor,

ThtEafi-lndUEmfes are remarkable 5 and the great
Stores of their Commodities , Cinamon , Green-ginger ,
Gmphire , Pepper, G/tlecnts , Indico, &c. The (hips are of
a great burden ? their Houfe was then enlargtngjakfrouglt

them to reach at, they exe<

04)

it was great before; andaperfeft Town for all Trades
within it felf.

The Admiralteyt, or Admiralty where their Stores for
War and Shipping are laid up* is encompaflfed with wa-
ter* near to it there lay then 7 2 Men of War. In theHoufe
we faw their Cables, Grapling irons, Pullies, Oars, Char-
ges for Powder, Lanthorns for (hips, &c* At the en-
trance of the Gate hangeth up a Canoe with a man in it*
dryedup, fo as to be preferved from corruption, and a
Paddle in his hand : he was enclofed up to the v/afte in
the Canoe , in fuch fort, as the Fifii-skins, which were the
cover to it, being fo fewed together that no water could
get in, he might keep the Sea in the greateft Storms with-
out danger. The top of this Houfe, as of divers others
alfoin this City, is aRefervatory for Rain-water , ..which
they have the more need of, becaufe they have little good
water hereabouts.

Thefaireft Streets in the Town are Rarlem-fireet , the
Cingel , Princes Graft , Kaifers Grafts and the New Build-
ings in the lfland towards Gottenburg. And if they con-
tinue to build with Freeftone.they will flill furpafs thefe,
which, rle aflureyou, are in no fmall meafure beauti-
ful.

I faw a Globe to be fold, made by Vingbomes , between
fix and feven foot Diameter, valued at Sixteen thoufand
Guldens: The Meridian alone, being of brafs, coft a
thoufand Guldens. The Globe is made of Copper-plates
excellently well painted , with all the new Difcoveries in
it, as that of jlnthony Van Dimom Land, found out 1 642.
in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude, and 1 7oof Longitude,
thofe towards the Northweft of Japan, and thofe places
both about AT* Z. and alfo in theTartarian Sea beyond
the Streights of Vojgais, New- Holland, WeJl-FrieJland^Cape
d'Ryveri&c, but 1 have fince met with a Book , which

doth

(r$ )

doth fomewhat contradift this; entituled ATi>yage into the
Northern Countries by MonjieurMdiXtiMexz, who went in
one of the three fhips belonging to the NoribernCompany
of Copenhagen^ in the year 1653. and by that means had
occafion toconverfe with the Norwegians,] (lander s\ Lap-
landers} Kilops , Borandians , Siberians, Zemblians , and
Samojedes, who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tin*
gorjes , in his 46 Chapter he exprefieth himfelf after this
manner. There having fallen into my hands feveral Geo-
graphical Charts of fundry eminent and much celebrated
Authors, I am much amazed to fee how they are miftaken
in the pofitionof Zembla , which they place much nearer
the North Po’re than really it is ; they divide it likewife
by the Sea from Greenland \ and place it far diftant from
it, when as indeed thofe two Countries are Contiguous *
theCoaftsof Greenland buttingupon the Coafts of Zem-
bla, fo as did not the great quantity of Snow 3 and the
violence of the cold render thofe Borders uninhabitable,
thepalfage would be very eafie by Land from Greenland
to Zembla , and from Zembla paffing the Pater-nojler
Mountains to enter into Samojedia, from thence into Tar*
tary or ^Mufiovy, as one pleafed : But of the truth of this
weffiallbe further informed at the return of Captain
Wood,

I was amazed likewife to fee they had deferibed the
Streight called Voygat , not above ten French Leagues in
length, whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch
Leagues, which is fix times as much. Again, they would

perfwadeus that through that Streight our fliips might
pafs into the great Tartarian Ocean , which is a miftake.
And although they indeed do affirm that in the time of
Prince Maurice of Najfau, a Dutch VefTel pafied that way
into that Ocean, yet it is a manifeft errour , that Streight
being bounded %- as I faid before, by the JPater-nopp

Mountains^

- * (16)

Mountains, which are half a League high, and the tops of
them covered with perpetual Snow, which never dif-
folves. And of this I can give a pofitive teftimony, ha-
ving beenmyfelf in that Streight under thofe Mountains
in the Dog-days, which is the hotted time of the
year.

From the Steeple of the Old Church of Amjlerdamy I
had a good profpeft of the Town, and the great number
of (hips lying upon one fide of it, like a Wood; and all
the Towns about it. The Roofs .of the Houfes being
iharp , it is a moft uneven Town to be looked upon
downward, as it is a handfomeoneto be looked on up-
ward; and is not fodivertifing or pleafing to the fighr?
as fome Towns in France and Italy, which have flatter
Rooftj or elfe are covered with a fine black Slat or Ar-
doife. Upon this, and all other Towers of the Town,
a Trumpet is founded at Midnight, and in other parts of
the City at fix a Clock night and morning* At eleven a
clock, the time of going on to the Exchange , there is
vgood Mufick at the StadthuU^ given by the Earl of Lei -
eejler . They make good Harmony alfo every hour in
playing upon their Chimes and Bells in moft Steeples,
And there is a Mufick-houfe or Enterraining-houfe, where
any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears moft forts of Mu-
fick, feethmany good Water- works, and divers motions
by Clock-work, Figures, and other Di ver tifements.

During my flay at Amjlerdam, I had the opportunity
of feeing divers Learned Men , and Perfons of Note,
Dr* us many Curiosities in Anatomy , . as

the Skeletons of young Children, and Eatw’s of all A-
gcs, neatly fet together, and very white ; the Lywpba-
tick veffels fo preferved, as to fee the valves in them* A
Liver excarnated, fhowing the Minute veffels, all fliining
vand clear. The Mufcles of Children diflefled and kept

(17)

from corruption : entire Bodies preferved ; the face of
one was very remarkable, without the lead fpot or change
of colour or alteration of the lineaments, from what
might be expefied immediately after death : he had then
kept it two years, and hoped it would fo continue. Dr«
Swammerdam flhewed us divers of his Experiments which
he hath fet down in bis Treatife De Re (pir&tione ; and a
very fair Collection of Infefis brought from feveral
Countries; a Staggfly of a very great bignefs ; a w Indi-
an Seolofendria, or forty feat ; a fly called Ephemeron , and
many other Curiofities. Old Glawber the Chymifl fliew-
ed us his Laboratory: And we received much civility
from Elafm the Phyfick ProfefiTour who hath wrote a
-Comment upon Vefltngm ,

The Jews live more handfomly and fpfendidly here ,
than in any other place : Their chief Synagogue is large,
adorned with Lamps of Brafs and Silver, We happen-
ed to be there at the Feaft of their Newyear ; fo that
their blowing of Horns , flhowting and Tinging was not
omitted : Some of them underftand divers Languages.

I faw one Mofes di Pas, a Learned young Man,and Orobu
a Phyfician of Note, And I was forry to fee divers here
to profefsthemfelves publicity Jews, who had lived at
leaft reputed Chriftians, for a long time in other places.6
One who had been a francifian Frier thirty years ; and
another who had been ProfeflTour fome years at iholouze ,
and before that Phyfician to the King of Spam. Judo,
Leo a Jew, hath taken great pains in making a Model of
the Temple of Solomon , of Solomon's Houfe, the Fort of
the Temple, the Tabernacle, the Ifraelites encamping ,
and other Curiofities. I was prefent at the Circumcifi-
on of a Child 3 which is performed by thrufting a Probe
in between the Gians and Pr<eputium, and feparating it,
or dilating the Pr<epttfim, fo as the inward Skin may be

D drawn

08)

drawn forward as well as the outward; then by apply*
ing an Inftrument joynted like a Carpenters Rule, or a
Seftor, the Skin is held faft beyond the Gians, and with
a broad Incifiomknife, or Circumcjfion- knife , the
Foreskin is cat off clofe to the Inftrument ; and what
remains of Skin is immediately put back, the blood flop-
ped with Powders, and a Plaiflerapplyed $ the Relations
and Acquaintance finging al! the while , whereby the cries
of the Infant are lefs heard.

Leaving AmJlerdam , I palled by a peculiar Burial-
place of the Jews, who are not permitted to interr their
dead within the Walls , by Overskerk , Earn burg, and in
fix or feven hours arrived at Utretcht , in a Boat drawn
with Horfies through artificial Cuts of Water, which is the
way of Travelling in Holland , Utretcht , and divers other
Provinces of the Lorn- Countries.

Utretcht is an ancient, large, handfome City, and chief
of the Province of the fame name, called formerly Anto-
nina, and afterwards Mltraje&um . Long famous for its

Epifcopal See founded by Dagobert King of France , who
endowed it richly with Lands and PofiefTions: Wtliebald , \

oi Willebrode an Englifhman, was their firft Bifliop, who
converted thefe Countries unto Chriftianity ; and tte
following Biiliops grew fo powerful, that they were able
to bring many choufand men into the field, and to wage
great Wars againft the Counts of Holland: Their Suc-
ceffion alfo continued for above Nine hundred years* It
is now an llniverfity, founded by the States in the Year
169 6-* f fiiall not trouble you with the Names of the Pro*
fefiTors 5 the Learned Mr, Ray, whom I had the honour
to meet in divers places abroad , having already caufed
to be printed the Series Leffionumof this and many other
ilniverfiues in the Low-Countries, Germany , and Italy ,
in his Observations topographical, Moral, Fbyfiological ,

fet

C r9 )

fet forth 1673. The great Church hath a very high
Tower, or three Steeples one above another : From the
higheft of which I had not only a good fight of the Town
it felf, which lay under mine Eye like a Platform, but of
many others a! fo 3 Utretcbt being in a plain fiat Country,
and fo well feated,and encompaffed with fo populous a
Country, that in a days Journey a man may go from hence
to any one of fifty walled Towns and Cities. The
Engli(h Church here is an ancient Building; the Pillar in
the middle of it, whofe Foundation could not be laid but
upon Balls- hides, is muchtaken notice of: ft was built
1099. and hath the PiSureof a Bull upon ic with this in-
fcription s

Accipe Pofteritas quod per tun fiecula narres r

T aurink ctti'ibus fundo fo lid at a columns eft.

There is an old Library belonging to this Church, which
containeth divers old Books and Manufcripts, A large
Bible in fix Volumes, painted and gilded after a very
ancient manner: Two Idols taken (in time of war) long
fince in Germany, and given to this place by the Emper-
our Henry the Fourth, are worth the feeing, not fo much
for their neatnefs, as their Antiquity and odd fhape: As
alfo a Horn made out of a Tooth, faid to be given at the
fame time* There are alfo three Unicorns Horns, little
differing in length $ the longeft being five foot and an half :
I drank out of one of them, the end being tipp’d with
Silver, and made hollow to ferve for a Cup. Thefe were
of the Sea Unicom , or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth
of fome Sea- Animal much like it, taken in the Northern
Seas; of which I have feen many , bothinPublickRepo-
fitories, and in Private Hands. Two fuch as thefe, the
one Ten foot long, were prefented not many years fince

D 2 * to

(20 )

to the King of Denmark , being taken near to Nova Zem*
bU ; and I have feen fome full fifteen foot long ; fame
wreathed very thick, fome not fo much, and others al-
moft plain : Some largeft and thickeft at the End near the
head; others are largeft at fome diftance from the Head;
Some very fharp at the end or point , and others blunt.
My honoured Father SirT. B. hath a very fair piece of
one which was formerly among the Duke of CurUnds
Rarities, but after that he was taken Prifoner by Doug «*
tm in the wars between Sweden and Poland^ it came into
a Merchants hands, of whom my Father had it , he hath
alfb a piece of this fort of Unicorns Horn burnt black, out
of the Emperour of Ruffians Repnfitorie, given him by Dr.
Arthur Dee , who was Son to Dr. John Dee 5 and alfo
Ehyfician to the Emperour of Ruffia, when his Chambers
were burned, in which he preferved his Curioftties. I
have feen a walking Staff, a Scepter, a Scabbard for a
Sword, Boxes, and other C'uriofities made out of this
Horn, but was never fo fortunate as from experience to
confirm its Medical Efficacy againft Poyfons, contagious
Difeafes, or any other evident effeft ofir, although I
have known it given fieveral times 5 and in great quanti-
ty; But of thefe Unicorns Horns no man fure hath fo
great a Colleftion as the King of Denmark 5 and his Fa-
ther had fo many, that he was able to fpare about an hun-
dred of them, to build a Magnificent Throne out of U-
nhorm Horns.

I had the honour to fee divers Ferfonsof Note in this
City ; as D. Cyprunus ab Oojlergo , Dr. Regius , Voetius ,
the only Member then left alive of the Synod of J9*r*,and
others; but miffed the fight of the Learned Anna Maria
SkurmtM) who was then gone outof Town, and was for-
ced to content my felf with beholding her Pifiure, well
drawnfcy her own hand, with this Infcripxion ©f hers un-
iter it o° Gernitu

f2r)

CernitU hie filta nofires in Imagine vultm\

Si negat ars formant gratia veltra dabit.

The Painters Hall is confiderable, wherein are many
good pieces to be feen of fevera] Matters ; Amongft which
there are good Heads by Van Colw and Trnrt ; Land*
skips by Soft-lever *, and good Drapery, efpecially in
feme Turkish Habits, by Van der Mere .

This Town is alfo beautified with a fair Piazza of
Market-place, divers long Streets, and a Fall-mail with
five rows of Trees on each fide. In the Church of St.
Katherine is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge* Though I
had feen France and ltaly> and the Noble Cities thereof,
which are worthily admired by all, yet I was much far-
pmed upon the firft fight of the United Provinces , efpe*
dally of HcHand, and the adjoyning places. He that
bathobferved the eafie accommodation for Travel there-
in, both by Land and Water , their excellent order and
regular courfe in all things; the number of Learned men;
the abundance of Varieties in all kinds $ the induftry ,
frugality , and wealth of the people ; their numerous
good Towns; their extraordinary neatnefs in their Build-
ings and Houfes $ their proper Laws and adminiflration
of Juftice; and their incredible Number of Shipping
and Boats, will think it an omiflion to reft in the fight of
other Countries without a view of this* A Country of
little extent, and foon travelled over, Jbut fo replenifhed
with People, with good Cities, fair Towns and Villages*
as not to be met with upon fo little a compafs of ground,
except perhaps in China .

From Utrecht, in two hours, l came to Frijwkk9 and
paffed over the River Leek to Vimcn, where there ts lit-
tle- remarkable befidesthe Houfe and Gardens of Gount

(22)

Brederode , one of the Ancient Nobility of HolUnd} or,
according to common efteem, of the moft Noble Family
of all ; the Family of the Egmnds being formerly efteem-
ed the Richeft ; thcWajfenaer s the moft ancient, and the
Brederodes the Nobleft. The Mount in this Garden fer-
veth for the Rampart to the Town, and on a round Bull •
rvark are divers finall brafs Guns planted. The Statua's
of the twelve Cafars, of AriJlotley the Pyramids and Par-
titions, with the Paintings upon the wall, are the reft of
its Ornaments,

From hence I pafled ft ill by Boat through the Land of
Arkel^ fome Fay, derived from Hercules , belonging for-
merly to the Lords of Gorchom and Jrkeland , till by $jMa-
ry , daughter to the laft Lord of Arkeland \ it fell to John
Lord of Egmond , and afterwards was fold to William the
fixth Earl of Holland I arrived this night at Gorchom ,
a Town well feared, near three Rivers, the Ling , the
Wael, and the Maes. The Market-place is fair ; the Stadt -
huts is funk fomewhat on ooefide. The Governour hath
a good Houfe, and the Church a very high thick Steeple;
the Works are of Earth ; the Warer-gate is handfome,
and over it in Great Letters is this Infcription $

Chit as in qua maximi Gives legibus parent^ & in
pacebeata, & bellotnvi&u, 1642.

The more remarkable becaufe it made good its Infcrip-
tion in the year 1672. when Louis the Fourteenth, King
of France, came down with fo powerful an Army into
the Low-Countries, that in that Summers Expedition he
took thirty walled Towns and Cities , this Water-gate
being the Limit to his Conquefts this way, beyond which
Siis Forges were not able to attempt any thing.

Leaving

(23)

Leaving G or cum, I pafied by Worcum , on the other
fide of the River, and then by the Caftle of Lovejleyn ,
ftrongly feated and well fortified; and therefore hath
been often made ufe of to fecure Ferfons of Note. Sir
George A [cue of late years fuffered his Imprifonment here-
in, and formerly Barnevelt ; upon which occafion this
Caftle hath been much fpokenof, and hath given the name
to that wholeparty who fided with him, well knowaatpre-
fent by the name of the Lovejlein Faftion. Faffing on fur-
ther up the Mats, l 1 tkProye on the left hand, and Hue [den
on the right, and the next day morning arrived at th eBefch.

Hertogen Bofch , Sylva, Ducts , Bo [cum Duck, Eoijle -
due , Bolduc , takes its name from a Wood belonging
to the Dukes of Brabant : It is a ftrong pleafant City ,
feated upon the River Dija or Deefe 9 which entreth the
Maes, about two Leagues below it ; one of the greateft
Cities in Brabant-, and for its ftrengtb, for which ’c is be-
holden both to Nature and to Art, the States of the Uni*
ted Provinces po fiefs not any one more confiderable , and
is a very good Frontier againft all Enemies on this fide
It is encompafied on all Tides with Fenns and Marfhy
Grounds. The Avenues to it are by narrow Caufies ,
made turning and winding, to be commanded in all pla-
ces by one or other of the fix Sconces or Forts built at
fomediftance without the Town for its greater Security.
Befides which, the Hollanders having fome reafon to be
jealous of the Inhabitants, whofeafFeflions might incline
them towards the neighbouring Princes, of whofe Reli-
gion moft of them are, they have built a Citadel within
the Town, a Briel or pair of Spe&acles to look more ac-
curately into their Affairs. It is a handfom regular Fort
of five Baftions, each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long 1
the Faces of each Baftion 6 35 and the Flank or Neck
24, There is a handfome Houfe of Stone for the Gentry

04)

at the point of each Baftion, and the middle of each Cur-
tain* every one of which coft Seven hundred Guldens.
Here is alfo a Field Canon of an extraordinary length,
faid tobe able to fting a Bullet almoft as far as Bommel.
The Piazza in this Town is Triangular,,

ThisGity was made an Episcopal See, 15 59. The Ca-
thedral is Dedicated to St. John. In the Quire are paint-
ed the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece ♦
And over the upper Stalls or Seats, an Infcription in
French , which contains the Hiftory of the firft Inftituti-
on5 and Model of this Order 3 by the'moft High and
mighty Prince Fhilip the Good, Duke of Burgundy , Lc-
rain, and Brabant: Befides divers Statua’s and Pillars.
There arealfo feveral Monuments of the Bifhops of Bojche
.and others.

This Town was taken from the King of Spain by the
Forces of the Confederate Effaces, intheyear 162S. af-
ter a long and chargeable Siege ; in which the little
Sconce, one of the Forts towards the South, did excel-
lent Service.

Diversof the Nuns were ftill alive in this Town, but
at Utretcht they were all dead.

From the Bojche we travelled through a plain Country,
fomewbat Sandy, to Breda upon the River Merc\: A
place very confiderable, pleafantly feated, and well-
fortified. It hath formerly had more Outworks than at
prefent : For they have taken away the Crown-works,
and left only the Half-moons and Horn* works* and Con-
ferves or Contregards about the Half-moons. There is
a large Ditch of Water round the Counterfcarp, and a
finall Ravelin between each Baftion, joyned to the Ram-
part within fide of the Ditch. There is alfo a double
Hayeor Quickfet hedge almoft quite round the Town,be*
fides Palifados.The P^^is very thick, and ftrengthned

with

C if )

wUh a row of litm- and feconded with soever row it
three or four yards diftance, round the Town} the bo*
dies of the Bafliws are funk down or hollowed away,
and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are
the like without the Town, and after all, a brelt-work
between the Town and the Bafims $ and Cavaliers upon
feveral places of the Rampart.

This Town belongeth unto the Prince of Orange , un-
to whom it hath defcended by the right of the houfe of
Najfaw , by the Marriage of Engelbert the feventh Earle
of that houfe , with §J Mary daughter and Heir of Philip
the laft Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken
by th $ Spaniards in the beginning of the Low Country
Wars , and was afterwards Surprifed by the Dutch , by
a ftratagem performed by eighty men bid in a Boat
covered over with Turf , and fo let into the Caftle. In
the year 1625. the Spaniards took it again, as by la*
fcriptions and Chronograms are to be feea in divers
places, as that over the door of the Church,

aMbrefl fplmhce PigihaniU breDa eXpUgmts.

As alfo this,

PhlLlppUs hlfpmU reX gUkernante IJabeLLa Chard
EUgenla Infanta , obflDente fplwLa Maternls regl*.
bUs frit fir a Cm\Urmt\hUs he Da ViGtor pot It Ur,

Afterwards it was befieged and taken by Frederhk Hess-
drhk Prince of Orange , as an Infcription at the Weft end
of the Church fets it down.

Jnxilu film Dei , Mfpmh eesrftderaU Belgij, Ferdwm--
da Anfirmo Hifiams infanta em ingentl exemtu fmftu

E fuseurrent §

OO

j fuccurrente,* lulij 2 3 obfejjamad 19 Angufli eppugnatam.
Fredericus Henricus i'rinceps arallflUs breDaM eX-
pllgnatfeXta OCtobrls .

The Church is fair a.id hath many good Monuments, as
Reneffes Tombe ; a Monument for Sir T homas Alejbury
fetup by the Lord Chancellor Hide ; an old Tombe e-
refted 1349, for John Lord of Lech and Breda, ; the
Tombe of Grave EnglebergVan Aajjarr and his family
on the fide of the Wall ; the Here Van Horne and his
three Wives; but the Principal Monument is that of
Grave Hendrick Van Naffaw y whofe Armour is fupporc-
ed by four Warriers upon their Knees ; he built theCa-
ftleof Breda , which is at prefent both ftrong and beau-
tiful ; 1 obferved the place where the Turfe-Boat came
in, and where the Prince cameover into the Town. The
Gallery, the Garden, theWaks, and Dials are worth
the feeing, the Town is handfomely built , populous, and
generally hath a great Garrifon in it.

Leaving Breda we footi came by Land to St . Gertruyden -
berg the iaft Town on the North of Brabant , where it
joy neth to the Province of Holland , a fmall place, but a
good Town for fifliing , lying upon a Hill near the great
broad Water called de Waert , made by the falling of
the Mats and many other Rivers into it. This Town is
fortified and Garrifoned. The Church and Steeple
have been Large and fair , and the ruines of the latter are
obfervable,in regardtbat this Steeple was (hot down by a
Stratagem of the Prince of Orange , while the Governour
and chief of the Town were upon it , to obferve a falfe a-
larm In the Prince’s Gamp , and fo loft themfelves and
the Town. We Paffed from hence over a large Water
which hath overflow’d a great part of the Country upon
#nefideofit, aolefs than feventy two Parifhes being

drowned

( 27 )

drowned at once , the Village of Ramfdun onefy efcapi ng,
and fo by an old Tower called the houfe of Murney , to
the Maiden To wn of Dort , or Dordrecht.

Dordracum , fo called by fome from Duriov Dureti
forum , at prefent ZVf , being feated in the Waves of
thofe great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal, is not
unaptly from its fituation compared to a Swans neft, it is
reckoned the firft and chief Town of South Holland, in
refpeft of its antiquity , as having ferved to fecure Odo~
cer in his retreat almoft: eight hundred years fin ce , and
alfo inrefpeft of its Priviledges, in having the Mint here,
and being the Staple for Rhenifh wine and Englifli
Cloath.

In this Town are many fair honfes and pleafant Gar-
dens. The great Church is large, the Steeple 312
fteps high 5 the top thereof being made of four large Dy~
alls. There is alfo an Exchange or Place for Merchants
to meet. The English have two Churches , and the
French one. The Key or Head to the water fide is
handfome, and the Country about very pleafanr«we faw
the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was affembled
16 r i. a large fair room ; and took a collation in the fame
houfe , in a high turret overlooking the Town and Coun-
try: Our feats Moving round about the Table continu-
ally; fo as the diverfity of the profpeS made it more
delightful. The great VefTels round-bellied, which
trade between Coin and this City feemed ftrange 5 as alfo
the long Lujck or Liege- boats ; and the number of Peo-
ple that continually live in them. At my going a way
from hence I embarked in a VeflTel bound for the Ifland of
Walcheren , fayling by mod of the Iflands of Zealand and
in fight of divers good Towns, as Willemjtadt, Zirick -
ze, Tergoes \ observing in fome places where the Sea bad
overflow’d the Land, and in others where the Induftry of

E 2 the,

<2i)

the Inhabitants ftill keep it out , by keeping up theit
banks , and thatching he Shoars of the Sea. We Land-
ed at ter- Vere, where there is a good Haven and Harbour
for Ships, the Walls were built in the year 1357, to-
wards the Sea are round towers. The Piazza is long.
The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hun-
dred years, and the Marquifs of this Place did formerly
make one of the three States, by which Zealand was Go-
verned. The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middlehurg re-
prefenting the Ecclefiaftical jurifdiftion , and the Towns
of Middlehurg, Zirickzee , Ter- V ter , fluffing , Tolen,
Martins- di^e , Romerfival and Tcrgces , fupplying the
Third: over againft this place where a Town had former-
ly funk into the Sea, the Steeple only remaineth to be
feen. From hence to Middlehurg the way is Paved with
Brick ; as it is alfofrooi Town to Town in moft places of
Holland.

Middlehurg is the chief Town in the Ifland Walacbria,
feated almoftinthemiddleofit, being well built , large,
rich , and Populous, it is the fourth Port for the Eafi-
India trade : hath a large, broad Water within the Town,
and a {freight cut through the Land to carry VefieTs ourto
Sea , the whole is very w'ell Fortified , the Officers here
are chofen by Strangers or Foreigners , the Churches are
many and remarkable, the new Church is of aneight-
fquare figure with a Cupola, the Tower of the old great
Church very high, the Stadthuife with the old ftatuas, a*
bout it , the round Piazza, and many private buildings
are Confiderable , and the whole Country about it is
fruitful; either divided into Gardens and Orchards, or
Planted with Madder, Pompons, ox Grain and Fruits. The
Zealanders are generally addifted to the intereft of the
Prince of Orange , and great Lovers of his Perfon. I
found them not a little delighted that the Prince had beea

witfe

(29)

with them fome days before, and was made Premier
Noble, or chief of the Srares of Zealand ; which was
chiefly brought about , as I was informed , by Penjicner
Hubert^ Le Sage, Duvelaer and Frit bergen , formerly no
great friends to the Prince, efpecially Vruhergen , who
was the mod earned of any to bring him in , in defpite
to the Hollanders , for Genera! Worts his fake , who be-
ing fee over the Zealand forces by thofe of Jmjlerdam ,
lately affronted Vriebergens Son who was a Colonekac
the head of his Regiment. I w as entertained at Middle -
burg very courteoufly by Mo Hill the Minifter, who alfo
fent his Kinfman with me to Fluffing. Flijfinga or Fluf-
fing, hath Srone-WaIs towards the Sea, and Mudworks
towards the Land ; a very good Port , and a ftrong
Town; the waves of the Sea wafting its walls-, it was
oneof the firft Towns which the Low Country men took
from the Spaniards , in the year i $72 , and was made
Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammakins
and the Briel [ 1585. The renowned Sr. Philip Sidney be-
ing the firft Governour of it , and furrendred by King
James to the United ftates* 16 r6* The Sea ftoar here a*
bouts is not only faced with ruftes, fliggsand reeds
flaked down as high as the Tide ufually arifeth, but it is
alfo ftrongly bound over withOfiers and hurdles and
great Pofts driven in t© break the force of the Water, and
fecure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens
mouth. The Town-houfe is handfomely built , fhnding
in the Piazza , having three rowes of Pillars in the Front
one above another ; the Lower Dortch , the fecond l<b
nkk , and the higbeft Corinthian ; and on the top there
is a Gallery or Balcony to Difcover ftips at Sea. This
is the third Port for the Ea fr-lndi* trade ; Amfterdam and
Rotterdam being the firft and fecond : here lay many
great ftips in the middle of the Town, and eonfiderable

mm

( 3° )

men of War ] as the St. Patrick , and the Admiral of
Zealand : we faw them alfo building of divers fliips, and
when the Prince was here, they Lanched one to diver-
tife him , to which he gave the name of William Frederick ,
they alfo prefented him with a Golden Bottle $ that be-
ing the Arms of the Town : the Prince Landed at
tnuyden and went from thence to Tergoes , and thence to
Breda 3 they reported his entertainment in IValcheren a»
mounted to fifty thoufand Gu'dens. The Women in this
Jfland wear moftof them red Gloth and ftraw-Hats , if
a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is layd at the Door,
ifaBoy , a littieone , ifa Woman, the draw lies on the
left fide of the Door : when any Woman is brought to bed;
they fallen a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the
Door ; and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely
pleated, and in fuch manner , as todiftinguifh of what
fex the young Child is.

Returning to Middlebttrg by Land I obferved there
was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat
and rampart, where ordinarily there is only a bread-
worke or a hedge, and embarked at Middleburg again,
and pa{Ted down the River by the fort Rammakins , and
fo for the Schelde^ Sayling up that noble River till we
had patted the Fort Frederick lienrick and came to Lille;
where we ftayd till the Vetted was fearched. Over a*
gainft Lille 9 lyeth another Fortification, called Lifgens
%eek ; the Fort de la croix is the lad that belongeth to the
Hellanders , and lieth on the Norih fide of the River;the
Banks are cut nigh to it , and the Country drowned for
its greater fecurity. The Spanijb Forts hereabouts to
defend the Frontiers, are the Philip ji\\t Pearl, and the
Maria .

The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by C<efar is ft
gallant River^affording plenty of fifh , and convenience

for

(30

for Navigation and pafTageunto feveral noted places: It
arifeth in the Country of Vermandois, palling to Cambrap
Valencienne , fo to 'tour nay or Vornick , Qudenard ,
Gaunt , Rupelmond and Jntwerp 0 and pmrfuing its
courfe is afterwards divided into two dreams , w hereof
the Southern is called the Hont^he other runs by Bergen
apZome , and fo into the Sea between thelfles of Zea-
land.

The next day morning we w>ent on our Voyage ftillup
the Scaldis or Schelde , and arrived at dntvperp „ Where
I had the good fortune to fee Mr. Ilartop^ one very wed
known in all thofe parts and of high efteem for hisperfo*
nal ftrength and valour. A Gentleman alfofo courteous
chat he makes it his bufinefs to oblige Grangers; he fiiew'd
me many curiofities in this City, carrying me with him in
his Coach.

The Walls of Antwerp are very large, faced with Brick
and freeftone, having divrs rowsof Trees upon them*
broad walks 3 and conveniences for the Caches, to
make their tour upon. The Bajlions are not fo
large as generally they build now a dayes, yet after the
modern way. The Ditch is very broad and deep5the
Country about it, all Gardens^ The Chtadel is a regu-

lar fortification of five Bajlions , wherein liesalwayesa
Garrifon of Spanijb Soldiers: upon every curtain there
are two mounts or Cavaliers; and between them below*
a row ofbuilding or lodgings for the Soldiers ^ the ears
of the Bafiions are cut down, and Cafamates made, and
Palifados fet round upon the Efplanade; the Walls are
lined yvith excellent Brick andftone, nor is there any
where a more regular beautifull Fortification of five Ba*
fitons that is finished: it commands the City, the Rk-
ver and the Country : befides this Cittadtl there is ana®
ther Fort within the Town near the Schcld> to command

the ■

Cp)

the River , having eight Guns in it » called St, Lamm

Fort.

The Exchange is handfome,fupported by 36 Pillars e»
very one of a different carving, four ftreecs lead unto it,
fo that Handing in the middle we fee through every one
of them. TheMeer or Largeft ftreet isconfiderable for the
water running under it, and for the meeting of Coaches
upon it every evening to make their tour through the
ftreets of the City, which are clean and beautiful; at one
end ofit ftands a large Brafs Crucifix upon a Pedeftall of
Marble.The JefuitesChurch goeth far beyond any of that
bignefs that 1 have feen out of Italy. The Front is noble,
wuh the Statua of Ignatius Loyola on the top, A great
part of theinfideof the Roof was painted by Rubens,
and forae of it by Van Dyke : there be many Excellent
peeces of flowers done by Segers a lefuite \ the Carving
and gilding of all the works is exquifice; The Library
of the Colledge is great,& the Books difpofed handfome-
ly into four Chambers | the Founder hereof was God-
fridus Houtappel, wbofe Monument, together with his
Wife and Children are worth the feeing, in a Chappel on
the South fide of this Church. In the Church of the
Carmelites is a large Silver Status of our Lady , and
models of Cityes in ftone. Onfar Lieven Vrorvcn Kerch ,
or the Church of our hleffed Lady is the greatefl in the
City 1 and the Steeple one of the feireft in the World,
five hundred foot high ? one of their feet is eleven of our
inches 1 fo as it is 459 of our feet, Jn this Church there

is much Carving , and a great number of PiSures highly
efteemed , among which one piece is much taken notice
of, drawn by jgji wint'tn , at firft a Smith , who made the
neat Iron work of the Well before the Weft door § and
afterwards to obtain bis Miftrefs, he proved a famous
Painter ; bis head is fee up in Stone at the entrance of

the

(33)

the Church , with an infcription and this verle.

Conmb'ulu mor de Mnlcibre fecit Apeilem.

I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael , pleafantly
fea ted upon the Scheldt where among other curiofities,
Ifawaglafs, which reprefented the Pi&ures of our S*~
viour and the Virgin Mary , colle&ed from the Putting
together of divers other heads : One was reprefented
from a Pidlure wherein were thirteen faces , and another
from one of twelve- over the blefTed Virgin was this In-
fcription.

Diva nitet variis exprejfa Maria Figuris .

The Countefs ofFr^/tf *Tombe,who was drowned, and
her Statu a , as alfo the Monument of Qrtelius, are here
ILewn. Macarius Stmoneus was then Abbot, the Monks
63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Wal-
hurgis an English Saint , who contributed much towards
the converfion of thefe Countries.

TheTown-houfe is fair, the Houfe built for the Eaft-
country Merchants is very (lately and large , but runneth
now to mine, in this I faw among other curiofities, divers
ftrange Mufical inftruments, which at prefent are not
underftood , or at leaft not made ufe of; The Heffen
houfe hath been alfo formerly confiderable. The water
which they make ufe of in Brewing, is brought by an
Aquedudt from Her entail about thirty miles diftant from
hence; and is conveyed into the Town by a large Chan-
nel , peculiarly walled in by it felf where it pafTech the
Ditch 3 in this City are many good Colleftions ofPift-
ures both Ancient and Modern, and excellent Mini-
ature or Limning b yGon[ol> one fine piece , which !

F faw

( 34 )

faw was peculiarly remarkable s it being the work of
35 feveral Matters.

From jdntwerp , I paffed to Brujfels by water, chang-
ing Boats five times , and going through divers locks, by
reafon that the Country is fa much higher about Brufiels,
and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerf.
At Fontaine aledgueandhalf from Bruffeis, three Rivers
crofs one another: one of them being carried over a
bridg. The Piazza of Brujfels is fair . and oblong in fi-
gure j upon one of the longeft fides ftands the Town-
houfe, and over again fi it the Kings-houfe, whereupon
a Scaffold hanged wiih Velvet, Count, Fgmoni and
Horne were beheaded , the whole Piazza being hanged
with BkckCloth.Upon the top of theTown-houfe, (lands
St Michael the Patron of the City in Brafs, Count Marfins
houfe formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange $ hath
a fair Court, and overlooks a good pare of the City , but
a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunderbolc
or Stone which they affirm to have effeOed it, is bigger
than two Mens heads , and hangs up upon the door at the
^entrance. The lejuites Church is hand Pome , and in it
the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded' a- the top.
The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar , and near unto
the Church is the Statua ofa piffingboy , which isacon-
tinual Conduit. The Armory was well furnifhed, as we
were informed, before the Governours of the low Coun-
tries fold the Arms, and Cafjel Roderigo theGovernour
left it very bare. There remains the Armour of Charts
the fifth, of Duke Albert, of the Prince of Parma , £>-
nejius , and of the Duke £ Alva and of the Duke Alberts
horfe who being (hot Paved his Matter , and died the fame
day twelve month ; Spears for the hunting the wild Boar,
one with two Piftols ; The Armour of Cardinal Infan-
te 1 and of an Indian King > A Polijb musket which carri

C 35 )

! eth fix hundred paces 5 Charles the Fifth's Sword for the
I making the Knights of the Golden Fleece , and Henry the
| Fourth's Sword fent to declare war , Good Bucklers for
Defence, and fome well wrought; efpecially one with
the Battel of Pyrrhus and his Elephants ; and Banners ta-
j ken with Francis King of France , at the Battel of Pa-
via.

Somewhat like Godfrey of Bouillons floating the
three Pigeons near the Tower of David, [$ the fhot which
Infanta Ifabella nude, when with an Arrow fhe killed a

I Bird, in memory whereof, a Bird pierced with an Ar*
row is fee upon the top of a Tower in the Court, which
is large ; and if the New Buildings and Defign were con-
tinued, it would be very handfouie. Before the Court
(land five brafs Statues. The Park is pleafant , with
Trees fet in order, and adorned with Grotto’s, Foun-
tains, and Water-works, which come very near the Ita-
lian ; one piece fomewhat imitating Frafcati , in which
| all Mufical Infirumcnts are imitated, and a perpetual mo*
non attempted ; and on the Front of the Buildings (land
the Cafars head^. But the Eccho is mofl remarkable ;
which may perfefily be difiinguifhed to ten or twelve
Replies. The greateft Church is that of St. Gudula in
j which is her Statua, the Devil flriving to blow out the
Light of her Lanthorn. Two Chappels therein are re-
markable ; the one built by Leopoldus, very fair on the
outfide: the other towards the North, hath been vifited
by five Kings; in which is the Hofi: which bled being
ftabbedby the Jews. In the Dominican Church is the
Monument of the Duke of Cleve and his Dutchefs, in Co-
rinthian brafs. But for a New Church that of the Be-
gennesy or Pious Maids, is very confiderable ; there be»
Eight hundred of them in this City, whohavea par-
ar place allotted to them, where they have built this

F 2

milk

(3 6 )

milk white Church. The Plague was much in this place
at that time, three hundred Houfes being fhut up, and a
Garland placed on the doors , in the middle of which

t _

was written IHS. I faw the Englijb Nunnery , and o-
ther confiderable Buildings. And after 1 had refrefhed
my felf at the Fifii-Tavern, which is worth the feeing,
efpecially for two Rooms in it , furniflied from top to
bottom with very good Piflures , I returned to Jnt*
werp.

QUoh* 4. I travelled through an open Country , and
jodged at Molin brujle * The Spamjh Souldiers met us
upon the Road this day, feme of them well mounted and
armed, and begged of us, and were well fatisfied with a
final! Benevolence. The next day we entred the Country
of Liege , and pafled great Heaths, and on the Sixth, in
the morning, arrived at Maefireicbt.

Trajeffumad Mofam , or Maejlreicbt>\s a ftrongTown,
feated upon the Maes, four Leagues below Liege. The
Gut-works are very confiderable 3 the Wall is old. To-
wards the South- ea-ft lyeth a Hill , which ariferh gently ,
and overlooks part of the Town. Under this Hill is one
of the noblefl: Quarries of Stone in the World. To fe-
curethe Town from the disadvantage it might receive
from this Hill, there was formerly a Fort built upon it,
but it hath been long fince flighted ; and they have made
out an Horn- work within Musket- fhot of it, and the Ba-
il ion anfwering to it is made very high, to cover the
Town. On the other fide of the River ftandeth Wicke ,
very well fortified alfo, and rather ilronger than Mae-
ftreiebt, into which they might retire if the Town fhoulcf
be taken by Storm , it being united to Maejireicfo by a
handfome Bridge over the Maes f confifting of Nine Ar-
ches. All about WkJce the Country is flat : there are

many

(37)

many Inhabitants in it, and a handfome Glafs hotsfe.

The private Houfes of Maejlreieht are generally cove-
red with a black Slat, or Ardoife, other wife not very
beautiful. The Town houfe is fair,, feared in one of the
Piazzas, built of white Stone *, it hath Nine large
Windowes in a row On each fide, and within is very
well painted by Lbeodorus van der Sehuer , who was
Painter to the Queen of Sweden. In another j Piaz-
za is a Fountain , rows of Trees , and the great
Church. This Town was befieged and taken from the
King of Spain by the Confederate States , in the year
1632-

October the Seventh I dined at Gallop , a ftnall place *
and came that night to Jken , Jix la Chapelle , or jfqutfi
grane , an ancient noble City, the Inhabitants Courteous,
and much frequented by reafon of its hot Baths, of
which I fhall fpeak more particularly in my Journey
from Colen to London . Leaving Aken 1 travelled to-
wards Juliets or Gulie ^ , but it being late before we
arrived , the Gates were flhut up, fo as we went on-
ly under the Walls, leaving it on our right hand.
Near unto Gulick runneth a fiiallow fwift River,
called the Roer. At the Mouth of it, where it fal~
leth into the Maes , is feated a confiderable Town,
called Roermonde , through which I pafTed in the year
1673, when Sir Lionel Jenkins and Sir Jofiph Wtl -
Ham fin were fent Plenipotentiaries to Cologne , in our
Journey from Antwerp to that City. We then paf-
fed the Country of Brabant \ by the way of Ikornhaut ~
Weert , Roermonde , and the next Night palling by Erke*
lens , lodged at Caftro , or Cafter, in Gulickland, , where
there are ftill the remains of an old Caftle, formerly
built for the Defence of that part of the Country*
Roermonde is feated upon a rifing Hill , near the River

(38)

Reer, hath a Colledge of Jefuits in it, a bandforoe f *#.
azza , and an old Abby with divers Monuments very-
ancient , founded by Gerard Earl of Guelderland. From
this Town their Excellencies w.ere faluted with the
Guns from their Walls, charged with Bullets. The
Spaniards in moft places ft riving to exprefs the higheft
of their refpefts.

From Gulick I travelled to Cologne , where I arrived
October the i o th, r 668.

A

COLE ‘N

T O

VI EN

Oltfii Coin, or Colonic Agrippina , was
anciently the Capital City of the Ubii,
a people who were at firft poflelTed of
the Countries now called Berg and
March , but being over run by the Ger*
mans next to them, Jgrippa , Lieutenant
o( Gallia, received them into protefii-
on, and placed them upon this fide of the Roman fhoar
of the Rhine> where they built this place, and called it
Oppidum Ubiorum , and the Romans fearing themfelves
here for the defence of the Country, in Honour of A-
grippina , daughter to Germanicns , and wife to Claudius ,
whofe Birth-place it was, gave it afterwards the Name of
Colma Agrippina* It isat prefent one of the largeft, if

not

C 4® )

not the greateft, of any City in Germany f fecured to-
wards the Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trenches ,
and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone. The Rhine
renders it delightful upon one fide, and divers rows of
Trees enclofe the Town towards the Land. They have
forne Out-works, as Half-moons and Ravelins* but their
bed fecurity is in the great number of men which they are
able to raife within tbemfelves. Many of theStreecsare
broad, and paved \yith broad ftones.

It received the Chriftian Faith very early, and Ma-
ternus was their Bifhop above 1350 years fince , who
fubfcribed3amongft others, to the Council of Arles. They
have a great number of Churches, and well endowed,
which take up a great part of the Town 5 The Prebends
2nd Canons Houfes having in many places Vineyards, and
large Gardens adjoyning. Towards the North end of
the Town, the Church of Sr* Kunibald is confiderable.
The Convent of the Dominicans is fair, and newly built,
with a Garden in the Court, and all the Chambers uniform.
The jefuites Church is well built and ftored with rich
Copes, Altar-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the
Church of Sr. Gereon , a Saint of great name here, marty-
red about Golen in the time of Maximianus , are about a
thoufand Saints heads, and on each fide of the Altar a
largeStatua, whereof oneisof a Moor$ and under the
Quire another Church. The Convent of the Carmelites
is alfo confiderable, wherein the Treaty of Peace was
held with good accommodation in it , though with no
fuccefs, in the year 1673. In the Church of St. Urfula
is her Tonib, and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven
thoufand Virgins , martyred by the Huns. Upon the
Monument of Sc .Ursula is this Infcription ;

Sepulcrum Santl* Ur fuU indict* Golumb* detetfum*

Upon

C 4* )

Upon many of the Tombs which are old are Croffes and
Lamps. Many Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are a!fo
kept in thisChurch. The Cathedral is dedicated to St.
Peter, and is very large, but not finished. The Body
of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it* The
Quire is bandfomeand very high : behind it are believed
to be the Tombs of the three Wife men which came from
the Eaft to worfhip our Saviour, or the Kings of Arabia,
of whom it was prophefied that they fliofrld bring Gifts,
commonly called the three Kings of Co ten i Melchior ,
who offered Gold , Gajpar Frankincenfe, and Balt ha far
Myrrhe. Their Bodies, as the account goech, were firft
removed to Conjlantinople by Helena the Mother of Cox*
jlantine the Great; then to Milan by Euftorfius Bifhop
thereof $ and they have now refted at Colen for above five
hundred years, being rranflated from Milan hither by
Rainoldus Bifiiop of Golen , in the year 1 164. There are
alfo. divers other Monuments of Bifhops, and Noble
Perfons in Brafs and Stone, and one in the fliape of a
Caftle with fix Towers. The Canons of t hisChurch are
all Noblemen j among whom the Duke of Nexvhurg , who
ordinarily refides at Duffeldorff, about twenty English
miles below this City, upon the Rhine , hath two Sons.
In a Church dedicated to all the Apoftles, they fhew a
Tomb, which being opened by Thieves, intending to
plunder it, the woman buried in it arofe up and went
home, and lived with her Husband divers years after. In
one of the Streets is a Tower, or rather one Tower upon
another, which feems to be ancient, now made a Prifon.
Upon another Ruine alfo in the Streets lies a Tombemade
out of one Stone ; of which fort of Tombs there are ma®
ny in this City and other places ; but the greateft number
of them I ever faw was at Arles in Provence .

The Senate Houfeis Noble, having a fair Tower upon

O it.

(42)

it, from whence there is a good profpeft over the City.
Upon the Front of the Senate Houfe is a Man in Bajfo re -
lievQj fighting with a Lyon, who, as it was related to
me, was formerly one of theConfuls, who having had a
conteft with fome Clergy-men about the Government of
the City, on a fuddain they caufed a Lyon to be let in up-
on him ; upon which occafion he behaved himfelf fo well*
as he delivered himfelf, and flew the Lyon*

The Eleftor or Archbifhopof Golen hath two Palaces
in the City,but by agreement between him and the Town*
he is not to flay here above three days together. Only this
prefent Archbifliop, upon the coming down of the Im-
perial Forces, and his lofs of Bonna, rook Sanftuary
here in the Convent of Sr, Pantaleon , where he continued
a great while.

The City is Imperial and Free, and yet it doth Ho-
mage to the Ele&or , much after this Form : We free Ci-
tizens of Golen promije to the Archbifbop 5 to be faithful and
favourable unto him as long as he preferves us in Right and
Honour , and in our ancient Priviledges , Us, our Wives ,
our Children, and our City of Colen. Moft of the City
are of the Roman Church , and the whole Town fo full of
Convenes, Churches, Church-men and Reliques, that it
is not undefervedly ftyled the Rome of Germany . The
Lutherans have alfo a Church within the Walls , and the
Calvinijls at Mulheim , half a League down the Stream on
the other fide of the Rhine .

Over againft Colen lieth Dutz , a fmall Village, inhabi-
ted chiefly by Jews. The VefTels which come out of the
Lovo-Countries hither are long, round bellied, and of great
burden. Near to the Wall of the Town, upon the Quay
or Key, is a kind of Harbour made for them, into which
they may be drawn, and efcape the Injuries they would
otherwifefufferbv the Ice in Winter*

Befidef

(43)

Befides the rich Clergy, there are many wealthy Citi-
zens and Merchants here, and they maintain a Traffick
and Correfpondence with divers Countries, efpecialiy
by the convenience of the Rhine* They fpeak not the
beft High-dutch 5 but Latin and French are underload
by many : Divers Hefts in Inns fpeak Latin , and the Ser-
vants French ; which proves a good help unto Travellers
It was made an llniverfity about the year rgS8, Befides
the General Hofpitalsforyourjgand old pe-rfons, there are
two for the Sick, and well accommodated. They have
a Fharmaccpxa Colonienjis , or a Difpenfatory proper to the
place, whereby Apothecaries compound their Medicines.

1 wasacquainted with one of the beft, Mr, Elburg ^ a
knowing and obliging perfon, who was his Majefties A-
pothecary while he refided at Colen 5 and whom my
honoured Friend Sir Alexander Frafer , his Majefties chief
Phyfician, made ufe of, who lived in great reputation in
this City,

Two hundred years fince sALneas Sylvius left an high
expreffion concerning this place, Colonid c/u<z de conjuge
Claud ii 024/re Neronis , Agrippina diffa eft , & triam
Magorum ojjibusilluftrata , nihil magnificent i us, nihil orna -
tins 5 tot A Europe reperm : which though, if ftri&ly
conftrued, will hardly be admitted by any who hath be-
held Faris, Naflesi Venice , &c.yet doth it declare the no-
blcnefsof this City, even in former times.

We left Colen about four a Clock in the Afternoon, {be-
ing drawn up the Stream with Horfes, they being made
faft by a very long Rope to the Maft; we lodged in a
final! Village, having had a good profpeft of Colen all
this Evening from off the water. Near to this Place Ju-
lius Cafar made his Bridge over the Rhine . The next
day we came to Bon , the Seat of the prefent Archbifhop
andEleftorof Colon, Maximilianus Henricus , Duke of

G 2 Bwtria,

£44)

Bavaria , Bifihop of Eildtjheim and Liege, and Arch-
Cbancellor of the Empire throughout Italy. This place
was formerly called Bonna, or Cajlra Bonnenji^ the win-
tering place, in the time of Tacitus, of the fixth Legion.
It was not long fince very well fortified by the order of
the prefent Archbifhop, and the direfiion of Colonel Bi -
fer , a blind man, having Cataracts in both his eyes. The
Archbifbops Palace is very Noble , and there is a Cham-
ber feated a good way into the Rhine, to which they pafs
thorow a Gallery. This Night we lodged at the foot of
thehigheft of the feven Hills by the Rhine , which are
feen at a great diftance; and upon divers of them (land
old ruined Caftles. On the 1 5 th we paffed by a pleafant
Ifland with a Convent in it: at Remagen is alfo a Con-
vent upon a Rock, fortified with round Towers. Jnthe
Evening we lodged near to a Caftle, ruined four years
before by the Elefiorsof Triers and Colen, it belonging at
that time co the Dukeof Lorrain. On (he 1 6th early in
the Morning we came to Andernach, where the plague
was very much at that time, and they kept a great many
of their fick in Boats upon the Rhine .

jindernach, of old Antcnacum , was one of the Roman
FoifretTes, Upon this River, fome think that G*/*g#/*
was born, and that Valentinian was buried hereabouts*
Near unto this place are alfo Mineral Springs , well fre-
quented,and much made ufe of.The Town is encompafled
with an old Wall ; and the Gates were fhut up by reafon
of the Plague Notwithftandiog, there being divers Fri-
ers in our company, feveral of the Towns men Pent out
difhes of Meat to them, which we eat in the Field upon
Trees which were laid along near the Town. This day
the pafTage by water Teeming tedious to us^Mic.MtiJJlroth,
a worthy German Gentleman, with whom I travelled as
fe as Sf ire, was willing we fliould hire a Coach toge-

(45)

ther, which we did, and invited the Friers with whom
we had breakfafted, to go along with us in it to Coblentz »
We paffed through a very pieafant Country, between
rows of Walnut-trees , in fight of two of the Eleflor of
Tr/wHoufeSjand near to a Houfe belonging to the Count
de Wert.

We paded the MofeUa overa handfome Stone-bridge of
thirteen Arches, built by Archbifhop or Baldui •

n»s , in the year 1344, and coming into the Town, we
went to the Dominican Convent , which is pleafantly
feated near the Banks of the River MofeUa ; but the Pri-
or of the Convent, whom we had brought with us , was
fo obliging, that he would not part with us that night ;
and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodg-
ings: He invited alfo fame of the Convent to bear us
company 5 and after a handfome Supper, with plenty of
excellent Mofelle wine, we went to bed between two
Feather-beds*

Coblentz , or Confiuentia , is a Town of a Triangular
Figure, feated at the meeting of two great Rivers, the
Rhine and the MofeUa, which make two fides thereof,
and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to
the other ; which is now well fortified after the mod re-
gular Modern way. The Wall within thefe Works had
many old high Towers *, and formerly there was another
ftill nearer to the uniting of the Rivers, and confequent-
ly containing a lefs fpace of ground. This Town is un-
der the Ele&or and Archbifhop of Triers, Carolus Cajpar r
of the Noble Family of the Leyen , Arch-Chancellour
for the Empire in Gallia Belgicay and the Kingdom of
j(rles% It was given to the Church of Triers when Me -
doaldus was Archbifhop above a thoufand years fince , in
the time of King Dagobert . The Situation is pieafant
and convenient, and Ueth over againft the Caftle of Her-

(♦< )

manjlein, or Ethrenbreitjlein, that is \ the Stone of f at
extended Honour ; at the foot of which Caflle, upon the
Choarof the Rhine, under a great Rock , frauds a very
Noble Palace of theEleftors, two large Wings and the
Fronc with five Pavilions (landing towards the River,and
from it a long Bridge of Boats over the Rhine to Cob -
lentz : when any great Veil'd pafieth by, they let flip
three Boats, whereby the paffage lieth open, and make
them fafi again afterwards. In the German wars the Spa-
niards thruft in a Garrifoninto this Town ; which was af-
terwards beaten out by the Rhinegrave for the King of
Sweden ; and the ftrongCafileof EthrenbreitJleinbeiDg
put into the hands of the French, the Emperours For-
ces feized upon the Archbifhop of triers , who then
was Philippus Chrifiophorm y and carried him away to
Vienna*

In places where th eRhine runneth through a low Coun-
try and a fat Soy 1, it wafheth away the Banks : tofecure
which, in divers places they have made great Works of
Wood 3 and alfo to fecure Veffels from the danger of the
Ice. And I remember, ridingnear the Banks of the Ri-
ver Loire in France, Iobferved them in fome places to
be handfomly defended for a long way together with Free-
Hone.

Near unto Goblentz, upon a Hill, is a Convent of Car-
Jbufians. October the i -jtb we went up the Rhine to Bop-
part, a walled Town, upon the weftern bank, where Van
trump was ^ that time : It is a very old Town, one of
the Roman Fortreffes againft the Germans , called anci-
ently Bodobriga $ fome would have it called Bopport from
Beauport , Fair-haven , or Bonport, a good convenient
place for Veflels to retire into, or to ride in.

On the 1 %th vve dined at Sc. Guer , a pleafant Town
belonging to the Landtgravc of Hejfe, who hath a Caftle

here*

(47)

here. Coming on flioar we met with an odd cuirome v
for upon the Wall fide there is fanned a Collar of Brafs
ac prefenc, but was formerly of Lead, and given by
Charles the Fifth; into this moft Strangers that come put
their Necks, at which time they ask them, Whether they
will be (prinkled with water, or drink wine? and if they
choofe the latter, they give an entertainment of wine to
the Company. The Queen of Sweden puffing by this
place, gave a great Silver Gup, out of which they now
drink at this Ceremony. We lodged this nights tWefel,
a Town fituated between a high Hill aid the River,
belonging to the Archbifliop of Triers. Here in the
Market-place they ftew us the print of St, Huberts Hor-
fes foot in a Free-ftone.

On the 1 9 th we came to Baccharach , or ad Bacchi arae ?
belonging to the Eleftor Palatine^ place famous fcr Ex-
cellent Wines. Wre pafifed by an old Caftle feated upon
a Rock in the middle of th zRhine, being of an irregular
figure, called Pfalts 5 where formerly the Prince Pah*-
tines of the Rhine were born, the PrincefTes being fent
hither to be brought to Bed. We came this night to
Dreickfhaufen j the next day we went by a dangerous Paf-
fage, there being many Rocks under water, which caufe
the River to run very rapid and unequally. A little a«
bove this we came to a round Tower, on a Rock in the
Rhine , called the Mcufe-tower, built by Hatto Archbi-
fhopof Mentz, in the year 900. who, as the Story goetb,
in a time of great Scarcity,pretending to relieve the poor
who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn,
where he burnt them all, faying, They were like the Rats
and sJtllce which would devour the Corn. After which he
was fo perfecuted with Rats and Mice, that to avoid them
hecaufed this Tower to be built in the middle of the
Rhine, which did not avail him, for they followed him

thither

(48)

thither alfo, and at laft devoured him. A little above
this lieth Bing upon the Wefternihoar* a confiderable
Town, belonging to the Eleftor of Mentzi heie our
Boat ftayed to pay Cuftome, as it had done alfo at Eonna,
Liutz, Hammerfiein, yindernach, Coblent z9 Lodejheim,
Bopport, St, Gower, Cub} and Baccbarach. For the trade
of the being great, Princes and Lords, who have
Towns upon it, make ufe of that advantage, which, though
itabateth the gains of the Merchant, brings confiderable
profit to themfclves.

Bing, or Binginm, .was an old Roman Fortrefs upon
the Rhine, where the River Navusov JVarv entreth into
it ; over which latter there is a handfome Stone-bridge :
In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrains Army
fickand wounded, who three weeks before had main-
tained a fight againft the Forces of the Elettor JPalatine ,
near this place. From Bing we continued our Journey
to Mentz : at Rudejbeim in Rhinegaw , a place noted for
good Wine, they fhewed us a Boy, whofehair was thick
and woolly, like to the African Moors, but of a fine
white colour, which being fomewhat an odd fight5I took
away fome of his hair with me.

^Mcntz, Moguntia , Moguntiacum, and by the French
Mayence , is feated over againft the Confluence of the Ri-
ver Main , with the Rhine, or rather a little below ir$ in
a fertile Country, abounding in all Provifions and good
Wine; it lieth at length, and is moft extended towards
the River 3 and that part excelleth the other towards the
Land, which is not fo populous or well-built; It is a
ftrong place, and well guarded ; it hath many Churches
and Monafteries, and fome fair Buildings, efpeciaJly thofe
of publick concern, as the Palace of theEledtor, and o-
thers : But the narrownefs of the Streets, and many old
Houfes, take away much from the beauty of the City,

It is an Univerfity, begun about the year 1486. or as 6*
thers will have it 146 1. This place alfo challenged the
Invention of Printing, oratleaft the firft promotion or
perfeftion thereof : And the Territory about it is famous
for the deftru&ion of the Roman Legions under Varus, by
the Germans, Gttftaphtts Adolphus , King of Sweden, was
wonderfully pleafed upon the taking of thisCity, i6^r.
entring into it in Srate upon the r 4 th of December, it be-
ing his Birth-day, which began the 38 th year of his life,
and kept his Court and Ghrifimas here ; where at one
time there were with him fix chief Princes of the Empire,
twelve AmbafTadours of Kings ,' States , Elefiors , and
Princes 5 befides Dukes and Lords, and the Martial men
of his own Army. At the taking of the Town,they found
great ftore of Ordnance and Powder ; and the City re-
deemed it felf from Pillage by giving the King a Ranfome
of Eighty thoufand Dollars ; and the Clergy and Jews
gave Two and twenty thoufand more , of which the Jews
paid Eighteen thoufand 5 Archbifliop Wambold faving
himfelf upon the Rhine, and retiring to Colen. The King
caufed alfo two great Bridges to be made, one over the
Main, founded upon fifteen great flat bottom’d Boats,
the reft being built upon great Piles of Wood : Another
over the Rhine fupported by fixty one great flat Boats ,
each lying the diftance of an Arch from one another ; and
many Families of people living fomecimes in the Boats un-
der the Bridge, The Bridge over the Main is taken a-
way; but that over the Rhine is (till continued: Upon
which I faw the prefent Eleflor paffiig in his Coach;
a Perfon of great Gravity, of a middle Stature, having
long grey Hair, and was very Princely attended; his
Name Joannes Philippas of the Noble Family of Schoen-
&wg,EIe£korand Archbifliop of Mentz , Bifliop of Wurtz-
burg, and BiffiOp of Worms^ Arch-Chancelibur of the
i'diil H Empire

Cs®>

Empire for all Germany) the firft of iht EletforalColledge$
in all publick Conventions he fits at the right hand of the
Emperour, and is a SuccefTour of the famous Boniface ,
an Englifb man, Bifliop of M^/r, whofo much promo-
ted the Chrifiian Religion in thefe parts. But though his
Dignity and Place excelleth the two other Ecclefiaftical
Ele&ors of Coltn and Triers, yet his Territories come
fhort ; and they lye not together, but fcatterirgly with
thofe of the Palatinate, Spier , Franck fort, and divers
places in Franconia . But of late he hath much encreafed
his Power , by feizing the great City of Erfurdt in
Turingia, which he hath fince much beautified and ftrengtb-
ned by a Citadel built upon St. Peters kill.

From Mentz l pafied by water up the River Main , to
Franckfort, a free City of the Empire, called Fray Hum
Franconim , a Paflage or Ford of the Franks > as ferving
them for a Retreat, when they entred or returned from
Gaul ; at prefent Franckford upon the Main , to differ-
ence it from Franckford upon the River Oder, which is an
Univerfity .* It is a large Town, divided into two parts
by the River; the lefier called Saxonhaufen , or Saxon*
houfes, united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the
eJ Main of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a place of
good Trade, and well fcated for it, as having the ad-
vantage of the River Main, which pallet h by Bamberg, *
Scbminfurt, Wurtzburg r Guemund, or Gaudia mundi $
and alfo the Tauber , and other Rivers running into it, af-
fordeth conveniency for Commerce with the remoter
parts of Franco#ia$ and the Main running into the Rhine ^
makes a large communication both up and down that
Stream.

But this place is moft remarkable for the Elefiion of
the Emperour, which, by the Laws of the Golden Bull ,
ftouldbe in this City, as alfo for two great Marts or

Fairs

' '**

C 51 )

Fairs kept in March and September, at which times there
is an extraordinary concourfe of people from remote
parts, in order to buying and felling of fevera I Commo-
dities, efpecially for Books, as well printed here as in
other parts, whereof they afford two Catalogues every
year, and have no final 1 dealings that way, by the Fa*
ftorsof the Germans, Hollanders, kalians, French, and
Englijb: although at other times their trading in Books
feems not great ; for when I was there out of the time of
the Mart, the Stationers Shops being (hut up, made but a
dullfliow, Here are alfoa great number of good Horfes
bought and fold : and on the North-fide of the City there
is a fpacious place for a Horfe- Fair, The City is ftrong
and well fortified ; and moft part of the Town are Luthe-
rans. Tn the German wars, the King of Sweden having
taken Hanat v. Pent a Meffeoger to Franckfort to know
whether the City would peaceably and fpeedily fet open
their Gates unto him* and accept fairly of a Garrifon, or
Hand to the hazard of a Siege : And although they were
unwilling to yield, yet for fear of the worft, they con-
fented, That the King fhould have free paffage for his
Army through the City ; and that for the better affurance
of it, fix hundred of his men fliould be received for a
Garrifon into Saxonhaufen ; and alfo that the Magiftrates
and People fliould take an Oath unto his Majefty. So that
upon the 17 th of November, 1631. the Kings Army paf-
fed through Saxonhaufen over the Bridge , quite through
the Town. Colonel Vitzthumh was left Governour in
Saxonhaufen; and the King himfelf rode bare-headed
through the Streets : and by bis obliging behaviour did
generally win the affeftions of the beholders ; and three
days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of
Heffcn-Caffell, and the Landtgrave of Hejfen-Darmftadt t
where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw 9 or

cht “c" 4 h a

(50

Feteravia, and were feafted in the fame room where the
Emperours at their Coronation ufe to be entertain-
ed.

In Saxonhwfen there is a Houfe anciently belonging
untotheKnigh s of xhGteutonicJ(Order , whichhaththe
priviledge of a Sanfluary for Man- flayers and Bankrupts ;
but it is a fecurity but for fourteen days. Upon this fide
there is the largeft portion of Land belonging to Frank-
fort 5 on the other fide very little.

This being a trading place, it is no wonder that there
are fo many Jews in it ; for a diftinflion they wear great
Ruffs, their Sons Bonnets, and their Wives a peculiar
drefs of their Head.

The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew , where ma-
ny of the Emperours have been crowned, is large, hath
a high Steeple, and is built of a red ftone. There are
divers handfome Fountains in the Town, and good Hou-
les; in one of the beft of which liveth Monfieur Pitrn
Nenfville, a great Merchant, and a civil worthy perfon,
well known in moft places of Commerce ; who obliged
me with Letters to Venice , and other places.

From Frankfort I continued my Journey through the
BergfiraeSy pafling by Darmjladt , which belongs to one
of the Brothers of the Houfe of Heffen, commonly known
by the name of the Landtgrave of Beffen Darmjladt $ and
afterwards through a fruitful plain Country, in the fight
of Hills, and fomecimes near them : the whole Country
planted with Wallnut- trees, Vines, Corn, and in fome
places with Tobacco; till I arrived at Heidelberg.

In coming into this Town we paffed over the River
*Nma^ Nicer , otNecarue, upon a Bridge covered over
fto© one end to another, with a large Roof of Wood : m
the lame manner is the long Bridge covered at theen-
mm of t heCity of jdUfJwdti* della faglia in halt.

-i " “ ° The

<0>

The River Nectar arifeth near the Martkm r

mvr Swartz^ld^ or Black Forejt, and paffing through
the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg , runneth into ,
the Rhine at eJA&nheim ; This, thoagh none of the great-
eft, yet is a confiderable River of Germany ; arid hath di-
vers good Towns upon it and near it, as Sultz, Tubingen^
Wirtingen , FJJingen, Stutgard , Canfiat , Laujjen , Hailbrun 5
Heidelberg.

There being wars at that time when I w as in this Coun-
try, between the FU&or Palatine and the Duke of Lo-
rain: The Eleftor refidedfor the moft part at Franken*
dale , to be near his Forces.

Heidelberg is feated on the South*fide of the River
Neccar , between it and a ridge of high Hills, ib as it
cannot well admit of a modern Fortification, or hope to
be extraordinary fheng, as being over-looked by the ad-
jacent Mountains: It lieth moft at length from Eaft to
Weft : It hath been an Univerfity fince the year 1346,
at w hich time it was begun by Rufertm^ Count Palatine^
and at prefent is much frequented. In the great Church
was kept the famous Library, which, after that the sp&«-
niards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome %
and added to the Vatican , where I faw it in the year 1 66^»
being placed upon one fide of a very long Gallery be-
longing to the Vatican Library $ and the Duke of Urbiri%
Library placed on rhe otherlide, over-againft its both
which made a notable addition to the Papal Library* In
this Church and the Church alfoof St .Peter, are divers
Monuments of Frinccs of the Palatine Family , and of
Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church
here, and the prefent Eleflor is of the Order of the Holy
Qhoft \ and his Son a Marefchal of Frame 1 and good
French High htch are both generally fpoken here®
Th e Lutherans have aifo a Church in this Town , by the

hmm

(54)

favour of the prefent ILIefior ; although he himfelf be a
Calvinijl : and to exprefs his generous kindnefs the higher
in this point , the firft Scone was laid by himfelf and his
Son ; and ic is called the Church of Providence , according
to the Ele&or’sMotto, Domims Provide bit.

Upon the Town-houfe is a Clock with divers Moti-
ons, and when the Clock ftrikes, the figure of an Old
man pulls off his hat, a Cock crows, and (hakes his
wings, Souldiers fight with one another, and the like.
The Prince’s Stables for above a hundred Horfes are feat-
ed upon the River very conveniently, but were fairer
formerly, above half thereof having been ruined by the
Ijnperialifb ; as alfo divers of the Statues on the out-
fide of the Caftle, which is feated high above the
Town*

The prefent Eleftor is Carolus Ludovicus , Son to the
KingoF Bohemia , Frederick the Fifth; he was born in
the year 1617. and paffed his Youth an Exile from his
Fathers Kingdom and Eleflorate : and at the pacification
at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any reftitution to
be made to him. But at length, in the Treaty of Mun-
fter 1648. he was reftored to the lower Palatinate , and
i65?.returned to the poffeflion of his Fortunes : a highly
accomplished Prince , much honoured and beloved by
his Sub;e6s. In the year 1650. he married Charlottas
Daughter to William the Fifth, Landgrave , and to the
famous Amelia Elizabeth, Landgravefi of Haffia 5 by
whom be had the CWPrince,or Electoral Prince Charles ,
and a Daugbtersthe Princefs Charlotte Elizabetha\but up-
on fome difcontent the Princefs Eleftrefs ft nee returned
to her own Fnends and Count ry. This Eleftor is alfo
Knight of the mqft Noble Order of the Garter, Great
Treafurer of the Empire, and together with the Eleftor
of Saxon/, Yicar of the Emgin?. •

In

(55) .

In his Palace or Gaftle at Heidelberg, are divers things
remarkable ; a very great Tower to be equalled by very
few 5 within which isa Theatre for Comedies. This Was
formerly called frut&kaifar , or the Tower that bad- 'Defi-
ance, or ihreatned the Emperor 3 but fince the Reftaura-
tionof the Eleftor, there are fonie Works drawn about
it in the figure of aS'ar, and theolddifobliging Name is
by Proclamation forbidden to be continued, and it is at
prefent called the Sternfchanz, or the Star f erf 9 By k

is a handfome Garden ; in the Ditch whereof there was
then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The
Grotto's and Water- works are very handfome : they were
alfo making divers others , having the advantage of the
fide of the Hill to bring down the water, and to make
Grots and Caves in the Rock. Amongft other Fountains;
thatof the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear, is taken
notice of. The Cellars are very large and cool, filled with
Veflfelsof no ordinary fize ; yet inconfiderable, if com-
pared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning
to the Cellars; it was built by this prefent EleStd^s Or-
der, 1664. andgoethfar beyond any made before*9 It
contains 204 Faiders and odd meafure, or about two
hundred Tuns infteadof Hoops it is built with large
knfce Timber, like the ribs of a Ship, which are painted
and carved, and have divers Infcriptions upon them 3
and fupported by carved Pediflals. Upon one fide of it
is a handfome Staircafe toafeend to the top of the VeD
fel 3 upon thetopof which is a Gallery fee round with*
Baliifters, three and forty fteps high from the ground.

Aboutan Evgli[h mile from Heidelberg ; between- the
Hills, is a folitary place, where three large Streams
or Springs gufh out of the Mountain, and prefently filfr
five Ponds, have three handfome Cafcates or Falls,
and after run into the Plain , and are Tirong enough in &

final!

final Ifpace to turn four Mills j this i* called Wei f shun]
or the Wolfs Fountain , from a Priacefs who formerly re-
tired into a Cave in this defart place, and was here de-
voured by a Wolf.

While I was at Heidelberg^ two Englifb men came kind-
ly to me, Mr. Fillers, and timothy Middleton, belonging
to Lobensfeldt Clotjler, a Convent formerly of the Jefu-
its, butfiaceletout to about an hundred Engltfh , who
left their Country r 66 1 . catne up the Rhine, and by the
permiflion of the Eledtor, fetled themfelves a few miles
from hence, living altogether, men, women, and chil-
dren, in one Houfe ; and having a community of many
things: They are of a peculiar Religion, calling them-
felves Chriftian Jews j and one Mr. Poole , formerly li-
ving at Norwich, is their Head. They cut not their
Beards, and obferve many other Ceremonies and Duties,
which they either think themlelves obliged to from fome
Expreflions in the Old Teftament,or from fome New Ex-
po fuion of their Leaders.

From Heidelberg I made an excurfion, and had a fight
of Spire, feared in a Plain, on the Weft .-fide of the Rhine',
a place of Antiquity, conceived to be Urbs Nemetnm of
old ; a large place and populous. The King of Sweden
in the German wars demoliflied the Works about it , not
willingtofparefo great a number of his Souldiers as
was required to Garrifon it, and make it good. Ic is an
Epifcopal See under the Archbilhop of Mentz : there
are many fair Houfes in it, divers Churches, and a fair
Cathedral, with four large Towers, The Romani/ls, the
Lutherans, and Cdvinifs preach in it at feveral hours.
It is the more populous, and filled with people of good
quality, byreafonof the concourfe of perfons from o-
ther parts of Germany, for the decifion of Law Suits:
For here the Imp^il ^hamfe)er jis.beld, and many differ-
ences

(57)

ences which arife in the Empire are determined, and the
Elefiors and other Princes, in force tryals at Law, may
be called hither. It is a fettled Court, which Maxims*
lun theFirft, for the better eafe of all perfons , placed
firft at Worms, and not long after it was fixed at Spire ,
from whence it cannot be now removed, but by the con-
fent of all the Eftates. Things Cognofcible in this Court
are determined by an Imperial judge, and fealed with the
Emperours Arms , fo that there lieth no appeal unto the
Emperour.

Another day I went to Manheim , formerly a Village,
feated at the Confluence of the Rhine and Neccar ; but
walled about by the Ekflor Frederick the Fourth, and
fince is much encreafed ; all the Streets being large and
uniform, and a Noble Citadel built ; within which, over-
againft the G3te, the Elefior defigns a Palace, the Mode!
of whicblfaw: and at prefent, on the right hand, there
are three Pavilions of Lodgings: in one of which lodgeth
the Elefior Palatine’, in another the Prince his Son ; and
in the third the Princefs his Daughter : behind thefe there
is a handfome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen,
the Churfurjls Miftrefs. Here are fome good Pictures,
as a Head of Hans Holben, and a Landskip with the Sto-
ry of the Union of the Sniffers. The Bridge over the
Moat of the Citadel into the Town, is alfb remarkable, as
having fix Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones, and
three fmill ones on the fide, There are Palifado’s all a*
long the bottom, in the middle of the Ditch, and with-
out upon the Efplanade.

FromHeidelberg I travelled to Nurnberg in the Compa-
ny of Captain Wagtnfeyl, who had been in the Ptlifi and
Hungarian wars, and was employed a little before in
blowing up the Gaftle of Launfleyn, belonging to the E-
lettor Palatine, to prevent its furprifal by the Duke of

I Lorrain.

(5*3

Lorrain. He was then employed to raife a Company at
Nurnberg, for the Service of the Eleftor Palatine. I had
a good ad vantage in my Journey by his Company ; for he
travelled with Authority, and was a generous, knowing,
and courteous perfon.

The firft day we travelled near to the Keccar , in ftony
and rocky way; and it being dark before we came to
Mojpach, the Feafants conduced us from Village to Vil-
lage with bundles of lighted Straw.

The next day we came to Voxberg , w here there is an
old Cattle, and in the afternoon reached Morkenthal or
Mcrgetbeim , the Seat of the Grand Matter of the Herrhn
Deutchern, or the Teutonic/: Order. The Town is well-
built, hathafairPM^ci, with a large Fountain in it, and
a Statue of one of the Grand Matters, with a long Corridore
from his Palace. This Order hath been of great Fame,
and hath had large Poflefiions, as may be feen in tbeexaft
Account of iht Teutonick Knights of Pruffia, made out
from the beft Authors, by my worthy honoured Friend
Mr. djhmple, in his Noble Defcription of the Order of
rhe Garter ; and as Lewi* du May , Counfellor unto the
Duke of Wirtenberg, hath fet it down. For the Knights
Templars and of St. John .having fought profperoujly againfi
the Infidels, raided an Emulation in fome German Gentlemen T
who waited upon the Emptrour Frederick the Firfl, in hi s
Expedition to the Holy Land, to take the Croifado. And
becaufe they were inft ailed in the Church and Hojpitalof St.
Mary at jerufakm, they were called Marianites. Their
Order differed nothing from thofe above-mentioned , but in
the form and colour of their Crofl ’ and was approved by Pope
Celettin the Third . Afterwards when Jerufalem was ta-
ken by Saladin, thofe Knights betook themfelves to Ptole-
mai s,from whence the Emperour Frederick the Second fent
them bac\ into Germany, and employed them againjl the

Pruffians

f59)

Pruflians and Livonians, who at that time were fill Pa-
gans- But by the Valour and Piety of thofe Knights , their
Souls were brought into fubjeff ion to Chrijl , and their Boy
dies to the Order which began that war tn the year 1 22c.
a little while after thefe Knights found themjelves
Jlers of a Country of very large Extent , which obeyed the
Order , till the year 1*25. at which time Sigifniond, King
of Poland, gave the invejiiture of Pfuflia unto A be a Mat*
pdf of Brandenburg. In the year 1 563. the Great <tMa~
Her became Secular again , and took a fart of the Lands fub~
Jeff to the Order , with the name of Duke of Cur land* And
Livonia having been the Subject and Theatre of many wars
between the Po!anders3 Mufcovites3 and Swedes 5 thefe DJI
did at length become Majiers of it, and have it in poffe/fion
Jlill. So that there is no more remaining of the Teuton ick
Order, but fome Commander tes fcattered here and there in
Germany. And the Great Majler hath his Seat and Reft -
dence at Mergenthal.

They wear on a white Mantle a plain black Crofs. The
Dignity of Grand Mafter is generally held by fome Great
and Honorable Per fon s, and in the Great Aflemblyhe ta-
keth place of all Bifliops-The prefent is the Baron of Am-
ring ; and the Grand Mafter before him was Leopold Wil-
liam, only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand the
Third.

From hence we travelled to hauterbach^zt which we
paflfed through a Wood, and found a Noble Church up-
on the top of a high Hill, which being much frequented
by Pilgrims, they have made handfome ftane Stairs from
the bottom to the top : then to Rotenburg, and lodged at
Burgperner , and the next day by Schantzbach we came
to Nurenberg. Rotenburg is an Imperial City, which
fome have likened unto Jerufalem for its Situation upon
hilly .places, and many Turrets in it. It is Situated near

I 2 the

(6o)

the head of the River lauber^ which may be accounted
the iecond River of Franconia, palling by Rottingen,Lan.
den , and Wcrthaim, where it runneth into the Main,
Nurenberg is the faireft City that I faw in Germany 5
the Houfesmoft of them of Free-ftone, very high; and
d i vers of them painted on the outfide, and adorned with
gilded Balls on the top ; many are of fix or feven Stories
high. Der Herr Feller hath one of rhe faireft. The
City is very populous and full of Trade , although it
fiands in a barren Country, and wants a Navigable River0
The three beft Churches are the Hofpitat Church , lately
built very fair ; Sc* haurence^ which is very large, with
two high Steeples in the Front ; and Sr. Sebald the beft of
the three. The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a
Cart drawn with Oxen , in that p!ace where the Oxen
ftood*ftill,they buried the Body, anderefled this Church
in his memory. In this Church is a Crucifix of Wood ,
very well carved, and efteemed at a high rate. The Cru-
cifix without the Church is very great, and of a black
colour : and fome fancy that the Raht Herrn , or Magi-
ftratesof the Town, haverepofiteda Treafure within ire
The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the whole
Church foftately, that it may pafs in the firft rank of
Lutheran Churches y that Religion being here prafti fed
in its fp!endoure ThePrieft every morning reads the
Scripture to the people for half an hour, or preacheth a
Sermon. The Town*houfe is well worth the feeing: In
it the Hall is fpacious* as alfo the Chambers, andfurniflh-
ed with good Pictures, and Stones well gilded and pain-
ted with white and goldj green and gold 5 dark coloured
and gold, and the like. There isone Pifture of moil of
the Great Perfons in Germany entertained in the Great
Mall ; another of the three Brothers of Saxony 5 one
©f an Elephant as big as the life 1 a piece ofSt* JobmtA

St £>-

( 61 )

$u Mark, and another of St. Peter- and St, Fmt^ both by
Albert Durer: but themed rare piece is that of jfdam
and E*vcy by the fame Matter, with this Infcription *

Albertus Durer Almang facie bat pojl Virgins part urn $ 1507-

Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the
Picture of our Saviour and the ‘ bleffed Virgin. Over
the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe
carved in Wood, and painted over, with this Infcripv
tion ;

Omnia, hahent ortus fuaque increment a, fed ecce
Quern ctrnis , nunquam Bos fait hie, Vitulns .

The Caftle fiandeth upon a high Hill, from whence the
Town makes a handfome fliow : In it are obfervable a
very deep well, the Emperors Chappel, his Pifiure, and
the Pifiuresof the Elefiors ;good Night, pieces 5 and one
of a man behind a white Curtain tranfparent, very well
exprefTed. The Armour of Hebbelevan Gdlinghen the
great Sorcerer is here Iho wn ; and in the Wall of the Ca-
ftle the marks of his Horfes feet, when he leaped from
thence over the 7l oven ditch.

The new Fountain was not then finished $ but the Sta-
tua’s in Brafs made for it were excellent $ the Sea-Horfes
large, the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life $ and
Neptune^ who was to ftand on the top, is above three
yards and a half high. When I came firft into this places
I was not a little furprized to behold the fairnefs of the
Hcufes, handfome Sreets, different Habits, induftrious
People, and nearnefs in all things, more than I had ob-
ferved in German Cities before ; and no place hath grea 3
ter number of curious Artificers in Steel, Brafs, Ivory *

Wood-

062)

Wood, wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap
rate; and there are Officers to infped: and enquire into
the works of Artificers, that they be true, perfeft, and
without fraud : they make flrong and handfome Clock-
work. The King of Poland prefented the Grand Signi-
or with a very noble Clock, who took fo much delight
in it, that when it required fome mending (the lurks be-
ing ignorant in Clock-work) he fcnt it from Adrianople as
far as Nurenburg , to be fet in order again.

Gufiavm Adolphus, King of Sweden , was more magnifi-
cently received and entertained in this City, than in
any other of Germany ; which fo incenfed Wallenfleyn, that
he afterwards encamped before their Town, and did great
fpoil upon their Territories ; But the King of Sweden
marched thither towards their Relief, and from thence
towards Lutzen , where in a bloody Battel he loft his
life.

The River Pegnitz runneth through Nurnberg , and
hath divers Stone Bridges over it ; and below the Town,
joyning with the River Rednitz3 runneth into the River
$J\law at Bamberg $ and the Main runs at laft into the
Rhine . The Reduitz arifeth at Weiflenberg, and is not

far from the River Altmul, which runneth into the Da-
nube > towards Regenfburg \ Upon this convenience,
Charles the Great defigned to make a Communication of
pafifage bet ween the Danube and the Rhine ; and made a
Canale thirty paces broad between the Rednitz and the
Altmul , to joyn thole Screams for the commodity of Paf-
fage by Boat ; but after he bad proceeded two German
miles in this work, Boggs, Rains, and his warlike Di-
verfions made him give over that noble Defign , whereby
there might have been a Commerce by water, from the
Low- Countries to Vienna , and even unto the Euxine
Sea.

The

(63)

The Roman Lieutenant in Nero’s time, had a defire
unite the River Sonne and the MofeUa ; and to make a
paflage between the Mediterranean and the German Oce-
an \ having been at the mouth of the MofeUa by Goblentz*
and pafiedfrom Chaalon upon the foft and noble River
jlraris or Soane unto Lyon, [ cannot but think thefe ve-
ry goodly Streams, and fit for fuch a purpofe* The
prefent King of France hath a defign to unite the River
Aude with the Garonne , and fo to have a paflage by Boat
from the Mediterranean Sea by Fholoufe and Bourdeaux ,
into the Ocean. When I travelled in thofe parts , view-
ing the Country well, I thought it would be a difficult
work, and foit proveth but the King hath proceeded
already very far therein.

About four Leagues from Nurnberg lyeth Altdorff, be-
longing unto it, madeanllniverfity in the year 1623*0011-
taining, when I was there, about 150 Scholars. The
Phyfick Garden is bandfome , and well flocked with
Plants, to the number of two thoufand. Dr. Hoffman
the Botanick and Anatomick Profeffour , fliew’d me many
of the mod rareof them ; and prefented me with divers*.
The Anatomy School is notlargejyer the only one in thofe
parts of Germany : And they have divers Curiofiries pre-
served in it, as the Skeleton of a Harr, of a Hode, of a
Man, of a Bear bigger chan a Horfe: And fome Pifltires,

as one of a Ninivite,m& another of Mofes , which they
take to be Ancient. Dr. Wagenfeyl , ProfeflTour of La w
and Hiftory, brother to Captain Wagenfeyl , who travel-
led with me from Heidelberg , invited us to lodge at his
Houfe, and fhew'd me his Library , and all his Rarities
and Coyns, whereof he hath a good Collection, having
lived in moft places of Europe , and fpeaks many Lan-
guages well; he gave me a piece of the firft mony that
was coined in Germany . In the Univerfity Library I

few

( *4 )

faw a fair Hortus Eyjletenjisr and Youngermn's Golle-
ftion of Plants by his own hand.

At Nurnberg I met with the Son and the Secretary to
the Holland AmbaflTador in Turky , who had travelled hi-
ther over-land from Conjlantinople , in their return into
the Low- Countries, travelling in Greek Habits.

From hence I went to Newmarkt, a good Town in the
upper Palatinate belonging to the Duke of Bavaria , and
the next day through Heinmaw, fubjeft to the Duke of
Newburg, to Regensburg.

Ratijbom , Regenfburg, Jugujla Tiber ii} CoJonia Quart a-
mrum 5 the chief place of the Roman Forces in this limit
of the Empire, where the fourth Italick Legion had a
conftant Nation \ was made a Colony by Tiberius in the
year, as fome conceive, of the Paftlon of our Saviour.
It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour
jirnulphm, who had a great aflfeftion for this place, fo
pleafantly feated, and in a good Country* Here the
River Regen runs into the Danube 5 from whence it was
called Regenfburg . There are two Bridges, one of wood
below the Town, and another Bridge of ftone of
about fifteen Arches ; which is the faireft ftone Bridge o-
ver the Danube. It is an Imperial City, but not with-
out fome acknowledgment to the Duke of Bavaria : And
although it be ftrongly fortified, yet it was taken by the
Swedes in the German wars. There are many fair build-
ings in it, both private and publick; and though I am
not able to confirm what fome report, that there as many
Churches and Chappels in this City, as there are dayes in
the year$yet are there many fair Churches and Convents :
As the Cathedral of St. Peter , in the South* fide of which
is the Pifture of St .Peter in a fliip ; and on the North a-
otherof the Apoftles firft Miflion. In the Piazza ftand s
a neat little Church, the Convent of St. Paul , founded

by

<«$)

by St". Wolfgtngut Bifliop of this place, the Convent of
St. Emermmus Bifliop of Rat if bone, a Saint of great Ve«
neracion here, though but of little mention or name in
ther parts. The name of Albertus Bifliop of this

place, hath alfo added unto the Fame of Regenfburg,

But that which chiefly promoteth its iuftre, is the
General Diet or Parliament, which is often held in this
City, and is not to be called in any part out of Germany,
and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of fuch
a noble Convention, as are the Effaces of Germany. The
Vice-Marfhal taketh care to provide Lodgings refpe-
Gively to their perfons v and feeth that all things be
brought hither, and at a juft price 5 that the Hall or
Place of Affembly befurnifhed and adorned futably to
the dignity of the Perfons convened, and hath an efpeci-
al eye and regard towards the Publick fafety. By this
Convention the great Concerns of Germany are much
fecured, and their peace and quiet Eftablifhed. Wherein
Germany feems to have a better advantage than Italy \ For
Italy being likewife divided into many Dominions and
Principalities, hath no Common Diet or Great Council ,
whereby to proceed for their Publick fafety : Which
makes them often fo divided in their common Concerns
in times of Danger, and when they moft need a joynt
Combination.

I entred the notable River Dambius at this place 5
which hath already run a good courfe, and pa(Ted by ma-
ny fair Towns or Cities ; as the large City of Ulme in
Swabenland , where it beginneth to be Navigable ; as alfo
Donarvert 5 Neubttrg , and Ingolftadt , and hath already
received the confiderable River of Liens or Leek, where-
by the Commodities of that great Trading City of Jugp
burg are brought into it. When I firft embarked at Re-
genjburgy I thought I might have taken leave of the Da-
1 K nube

(«0

nub* not far below Vienna, but an opportunity made me
fee this great Stream beyond Belgrade , as I have declared
in another Account qf my Travels

The fir ft day we paflfed by Thonavpjleyn , where there
is a Caftlefeateduponahigh Rock, and came to Pfeter
or Vetera Cafira of old, now but an ordinary place. The
Boats upon the Danube are generally painted black and
white, are flat bottom’d, and broad at the Head and
Stern; there is a Chamber built in the middle ; and the
Rudder is very large, to be able to command the Boat
where the River is rapid, and of a fwiftCourfe.

The next day we came to Straubing ,a hand force walled
Town, belonging to the Duke of Bavaria • the Streets
are ftreight- and there is a Tower in the Market-place,
paintedaH over with green and gold-colour: There is
alfo a Bridge of wood over the Danube. We pafied by
Swartz, in the Afternoon, where the Church is feated up-
on a Hill, and is frequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at
Deckendorjf, where there is another Bridge. Near this
Town comes into t he Danube that confiderable River Ifer,
or Ifara, having -pafied by divers confiderable Towns $ as
Landjhut , Frijing, an&Mmchen, the Seat of Fer divan*
Am Maria , Ele&or of Bavaria , Great Steward of the
Empire, and at prefent the firft of the Secular Elefiors,
and he is to take place immediately after the King of Bo-
hemia, it being fo concluded on at the Treaty of Munfier^
where Maximilian Duke of Bavaria was allowed to
hold the Eleftorflhip, which was confirmed upon him by
the 'Empetour Ferdinand the Second, when be excluded
Frederick the Fifth, Count Palatine^ and in lieu hereof
there was an eighth Eleftorfliip erefied for the Palatinate
Family, who alfo, if the Bavarian branch doth fail, are
to re-enter into their ancient Eieftorlhip, and theotber
newly erefted is to be aboliflbed.

C«7)

Thwfday, November the fifteenth, we came by Wiljho-
ven to Pajfaw, Patavia , or Boiodurum, a long and no-
ble City in the lower Bavaria, or Bayern , made up of
three Towns, lltftadt , Pajfaw, and Innjladt , at the con-
currence of the River tone, the Danube, and the lltz.
As Towns are commonly of great Antiquity which are
built at the Confluence of great Rivers, for the Strength
of the Situation and convenience of Commerce ; fo
is this accounted ancient , as being a Roman Co-
lony, and the place of the Cajtra Ratava in old cime%

The Church of St. Stephen is (lately , befides or her
fair Churches. The Bifhop, who is Lord of the City,
hath a ftrong Palace upon a Hill ; his Revenues are
large, and befides what he poffefTeth hereabouts, he
hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at
Bleyberg in Carinthia . This place had lately fuffered

muchbyfire$ but a good part was rebuilt, and very
fairly after the Italian manner : So that this may well be
reckoned as one of the ten considerable Cities , which
are upon the Danube, accounting from Ulme unto Bel-
grade, as Ulme , togoljladt , Ratifbone , Paffaw, Lintz ,
Vienna , Prefburg , Strigonium , Buda , Belgrade ; all
which from Ratifbone I had the opportunity to fee be-
fore the end of my Journey. Near to a Wall over a*
gainft the great Church at Paffaw, which was then re-
pairing, I faw a vaft Head cut in ftone , the Mouth
whereof was two fpans wide 3 and the reft proportion-
able. The River lltz, which runneth in here from the
North, is confiderable for the Pearls which are found
in it ; and the noble River tone or Oenus , from the
South , is the greateft River which hath yet entred
the Danube ; having patted by tofbrug , and taken in
the River Saltz , upon which ftanas Saltzburg $ anda-
rifipg in the jilpes in fuch a high Country as I irolis ,

K 2 it

(68)

it runneth in herewith a great force, and addeth much
unto the fwiftnefs of the Danube,

Upon the Sixteenth we came to hintz , the chief
City in the higher Jujlria , not very great , but as neat
and handfome a City as moft in Germany . There is
in it a very great Market place , with never a bad
Houfe in it * the whole Town built of a very white
Free ftone; and the Caftle upon the Hill is of Modern
Building, and very large. There is alfo a Bridge o-
ver the Danube, The Imperial Forces rendezvoufed
here when Solyman came to Vienna > This was alfo

befieged by thePeafants of jfuftria in the time of Fer-
dinands Second; they having got a Body together
of Forty thoufand men, and many pieces of Ordnance ,
but were ftourly repulfed after many AfTaults, and at
lad overcome by Papenheim, Not far below hintz
the River Dr&un enters the Danube 5 this cometh from
the Gemundner Sea , or Lacus Felicis , paffingby Lam-
pack , Weltz, and other Towns, and hatha noted Cataraft
or Fall of Waters.

The next day we pafied by Ens 3 Anijia , upon the
River Anifws , or Onafus , which taking its original
m the Borders of Saltzburgland , runs into the Da-
nube, and divides the higher from the lower Aujlria ,
having received into it felf the River Saltza , upon
which ftandeth Cell , or Maria Cell , a place of the
greateft Pilgrimage in yiujlria , Near this Town are
many Roman Coynsand Antiquities found , and Lauria -
mm Rood of old , a Roman Garrifdn, and afterwards
a Bifhop’s See x we came to a Village on the North
flxoar of the Danube , called Greim, where the Graff
vm Leichtenfieyn hath a Houfe. A little below this
are two dangerous paflages in the River ; the one cal-
isdkthe Strudel1* where the River running among# vaft
a 1 Rocks?;

(69)

Rocks j feme Under water, and fome above, the waves
are broken with great force, and the Current is ra-
pid, foaming 5 and troublefome$ and fotne skill is rej
quired to pals between the Ledges of Rocks which
are under water, and when the water is low the paf*
fage is very difficult. The other is the Wurbel 7 ora
kind of a Whirlpool , where the water turneth about
with great force , being hindred in its direft Courfe
by a great Rock. Upon the top of a high craggy
Rock ftands a large Grofs, and at the foot a little
Church, dedicated to St* Nicholas , who is Patron of
this dangerous place, and is believed to take peculiar
care of fuch as pafs this way, and therefore a little
Boat comes to you as foon as you are out of danger^
and receives what Acknowledgment you pleafe, or
what perhaps you may have promifed to give , when
you were in fome fear. This night we lodged at //m,
lpfium , or lbi([a9 a Town on the Souch-fide of the Da -
mbe: over againft it lieth Befenbeug , or Ufbium Ftolo-
msu Two German miles below lps ftands Pechlam ,
conceived to be Arlape in former times 5 and here the
River Erlaph entreth the Danube: A mile and a half
below this lies Melcke 9 Nomale , or Mea dileCia , in.-*
former days the Seac of the MarquefTes of Jufiria s
until Sr. Leopold removed to Kalenburg , and his Sue-
cefTours to Vienna . The Town lieth at length upon
the South*fide of the River ^ but the noble Cloifter
of Benedictines , which taketh place of any other in
Aujlria , ftands upon a Hill which over-looks theTown5
the River, and the Country about* is richly endowed^
and remarkable for the Monuments of many great Per*
fons, and the Tomb of St. Gdmm , much honoured in
thefe parts. We dined at Sfcyw, where there is a Bridge
over the Dsmht, Near to thfe lieth Grmbs , another

walled 3

C?o>

walled Town; and over the water Mdutern; and not
far from it the rich Convent of Ketrvein ; After this
the River Traifn, or fragiptm , cometh in from the
South* Having paiTed by the noted Town St. PM, or
St Hiffolitus, we lodged this Night at St. Eldorff , and
the next day pafled by Thuht , Stocker m, and Cloifier
Neuburg , to Vienna.

\

THE

(70

THE

DESCRIPTION

O F

VIENNA.

/ E N N A , or Wien, which the
Turks cdWBerch, is the chief City of
Jujlria, in the Latitude of forty
eight Degrees, twenty Minutes, not
much differing from the Latitude of
j Park. The old Seat of the Dukes
of Aufiriay and for a Jong time of
the Emperours of Germany. Ac-
cording to ancient account it ftandeth in Pannonia fupe-
rior , the Bounds of Pmncniaexier\d\r\gmtoKalemburg,
or Mons Cetius9 five or fix miles Weftward of Vienna 5
beyond which ftill Weftward all that lieth between that
Hill and the great River Oenus, or lnne, which runneth
into the Danube dX Paffaw, or Cajlra Batava , w7as anci-
ently called Noricum.

It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the
Romans, and called Vindobona, as the Learned Petrus
Lmbechs hath at large declared , where the Clajfts IJlrm

fome~

(7 O

fomctimes lay, and the tenth German Legion hadits fta-
tion; all this fhoar or fide of the Danube being famous
for the aftions of Roman Etnperours againft the Marco -
manni and ^uadiy who pofTefled the Country on the o-
ther fide of the River, and efpecially for the wars of
Marcus Jure tins Antoninus Philofophus^ who notably de-
feated thofe Nations, and who, as Aurelius Viftor (who
was Governour of Sirmium i n Pannonia inferior , in the
time of Conftantius ) affirtneth, fell fick at Carnuntum ,
now Petronel, and died at Vindobona, now Vienna \ And

to confirm the Antiquity hereof, befides what Wolfgangus
Lazius hath delivered, not many years fince fome Anti-
quities were found. For in the year 1662. when a wall
was digged up near the old Palace, the workmen digging
ftill on below the Foundation, found a Stone Trough or
Coffin, containing hard Earth and Bones, with a fmall
Gold Coyn, aGlafs Urnenclofed in a Brafs one, an Iron
Knife like a sicefpita , or Knife ufed about Sacrifices, a
little Roll or Scroll of pure Gold, fliut up with a Gol-
den coverat both ends, wherein was an Infcription in
ftrange Charafters : Not far from the Sepulchral Monu-
ment were found a Head in Brafs, a Brazen Patera , Lamps,
Lachrymatories, and other VeflTels , and a Copper Coyn
of Antoninus Caracalla. The writing in the Golden Scroll,
which no man could read, was conceived by the Learned
Lambeciust o be the old T&nnonian Charafler, and that
this might be the Monument of fome Pannontan Prieft in
the days of Caracalla , who, as good Authors deliver,
fpent fome time about thefe parts.

It is feated on the South-fide of the Danube , on the
rifa Roman*) that fide neareft to Rome , and many Roman
Colonies, according to the ufual pofition of Roman Sta-
tions, both upon this River and the Rhine9 as may be ex-
emplified in Colon, Bonna , Andarnach , Coblent zy oJMents ,

v " ’ - " Wormes ,

( 73)

Wormes, Spier , and Strafburg. And in like tanner in
the old Romm Stations , on the South or Roman fide of
th z Danube, which were in no ftnall number in or near
the Aufirian flioar, as Carmntum , or Petronel, Vifchmund^
or Aquwo£tiumt Eberfdorjf , or Ala Nova, , Melck , or No-
mate) Arlape,ov PechUrney Lentia, or Lsnt&i for here-
by they better fecured their Conquefts, and hindred the
incurfions of the Barbarians before them.

It is not fea ted upon the main ftream of the Danube^
but by a branch thereof; for the River running through
a low Country; it is divided into fever a 1 Screams, and
gnaketh many Iflands* A fmall River named Wien , run-
neth by the Eafl part of this City, and entreth the Da-
nube below it, which upon floods doth often much hurt ,
yet fometimes low and very fhallow, fo as I have flopped
over it ; feme will have it to give the Name unto this Ci®
ty; it divideth part of the Suburbs from it, and hath
divers Bridges over it. For that we may have a diftinft

apprebenfion of Vienna, we muft confider the City and
Suburbs thereof 5 the Suburbs are very great, and not
without fair Houles, Gardens, Walks, and all Accommo-
dations at large.

The City it felf is that walled and fortified part , de-
signed not only for convenience of Habitation, but alfo
to fuftain a Siege, or any Attack from the Turk , and is
now feparated from the Suburbs by a fair EJplanade 5 or
open Ground, above a Musket (hot over. The Houfes
near the wall were pulled downfince the laft Fortificati-
omin the Turkish war, when they were in fome fear that
the Turkijh Forces about Gran and Nerv-beufel , would
move towards them. It is fortified a lamoderna^ with
ten Baftions towards the Land, and a very deep Ditch ,
into which they can let the Danube: and with two other
Baftions towards the water, on that part of the River

L which

(74)

which lieth on the North*fide of the Town. The Baftions
are large ; upon one of them I faw Count Souches mufter
a good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is
large and very deep, into which although they can let in
the River, yet it is commonly kept dry, left they might
incommode their deep Cellars. There are two walls ,
the one old and inward, little confiderable at prefent ,
built at firft with the ranfome of our King Richard the
Firftj who in his return from the Holy War, was detained
Prifoner by the Duke of Aujlria upon the 2-oth of Decem-
ber ^ 1 19 2* The Anjlrians pretending they had received
fome affront from the King at Joppa, and that he had taken
clown the Enfign and Banner of Duke Leopold in a con-
temptuous way. The other outward of a great breadth,
made of Earth, and faced with Brick, edged with Free-
Hone, fo well built, as to render this City one of the
moft confiderable fortified places in Europe . The Ejjla*
made gently defeendeth from the Town for three hundred
Faces 5 there are very few Out-works.

It is very uncertain who was the firft Builder of Vien-
na, and after it had been long built, it ran to decay a-
gai-n for Four hundred years together, till Henry the*
Firft, Duke of Aujlria , in the year i 1 58. did much re-
pair it ; and the ranfome afterwards of King Richard
beautified it.

The whole compais, taking in the Suburbs, makes a
very large Circuit , but the City it felf, which is walled
in5 may be about three miles in Circumference, and is
exceeding populous as full of People, for the bignefs of
the place, as moft of the great Cities. And I could not
but take delight to behold fo many Nations in it, as Turks ,
Tartars,, Gmcians , 2 ranjylvanians, Slavonians , Hunga -
***** 9 Cr oat ians , Spaniards , Italians , French , Germans,
Mknden, d?*. all in their proper Habits*

- * ' m

(7i)

The chief Gates are fix; i. Stubnth tr9 or the Stuben
Gate towards the Eaft. 2. Karntertbor^ or the Gate of
Garinthia towards the South. 3. Burgthor , the 3 ’oven
Gate , or Gajtle Gate . 4. Schottenthor , or the Scotch

Gate * 5. Newthor, or the Newgate ; thefe twolaft to-

wards the Weft : And 6. the Gate of the red Tower to*
wards the North, which leadeth unto the Bridge over the
Danube : and towards the water fide, there is alfo a Port
by the Eraperours palace, and aCloyfteror Nunnery in
the Town hath the Name of a Port called Himmel port , or
the Gate of Heaven ♦ The five firfl of thefe Gates are
vaulted and arched with long paflTages through the Town-
wall, and have good Bridges of Wood , with Draw*
bridges to pafs over the Town ditch : The fixtfo is un-
der a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of the Danube :
For that River running here in a flat low Connery, diyi-
deth its dreams, fotbat to pafs it quite over, there are
at prefent feven long Bridges made up of many thoufand
Trees laid one by another , after their way of making
Bridges. There is alfo a Bridge within the City of Vi -
enna , called the Hochbrug ,• or High- bridge 3 which is
made by the eroding of two Streets at equal Angles ; the
ground of one ftreet being as high as the tops of the Hgu~
fesof the other, fo that to continue it, they were for-
ced to build a Bridge or Arch in the Lower fireet^ to let
the upper pafs over it.

The City is fairly built of ftone, and well paved ; ma-
ny Houfes are of fix ftories high ; they are fomewhat flat
roofed after the Italian way ; the Streets are not narrow,
but the compafs of ground will not admit them to be very
broad *, and their Buildings are remarkable both above
and below ground ; their Cellars are very deep. To fa-
tisfie my curiofityj I went into fome of them, and found
four Cellars one under another 5 they were arched, and

L 2 had

C tO

fead two pair of Stairs to defcend into them. Some have
an open fpace in the middle of each roof, to Jet the Air
out of one Cellar into another, and from the loweft an
adit ot tube unto the top, to let the Air in and out from
the ftreer, fomewhat after the manner of the Mines,
oMnaas Sylvius , about two hundred years fince, com-
mending the City of Nurnburg) among o^her exprefllons
lets fall this: Guperent Scotorum Reges tam egregie quam
mediocre s Gives Norinbergenfes habttare . The Kings ,of

Scots would be content to dwell fo well as the middle
fort of Citizens of Nurnburg . I muft confers, when I

firft entred Nurnburg, I was muchfurprifed to fee fuch
a noble, large, fpruce, rich, and well built City : Bu {Vi-
enna doth alfo deferve the commendation which he af«
fordethit: Ubi Palatia dign a Regibus &Templa qua mi -
rari Italia poffit. Where there are Palaces fit for Kings and
Churches, which Italy may admire. And this being fpo-
ken fo long ago, is now better verified of ir.

The Imperial Pa 'ace is very Noble', Subftential, and
Princely furniflied 3 confining chiefly of two Courts ; the
one very large, the other lefler, wherein the Emperour
lodgeth. At the Entrance over the Gate, are fet in Ca-
pital Letters the five Vowels, J, E , /, O, U v whereof
the Phancies of men make various Interpretations. That
which was told me was this , Aufiru ejl imperare Orbi
Universe , ox, A lies Erdreich IJl Ofier retch Uni er than $ i<e.
All the World is fubjeft to Auflria. Although I could
hardly believe this was the firft intended meaning. Be-
fides thefe two Courts is another final! one, where fome
of the Pages Ipdge. I took notice of a large rough Jajpis
ftone lying upon the ground, little regarded or obferved:
it is about nine foot Diameters it was prefented unto the
Emperour by the Archbiflhop of Saltzburg, whole Coun-
try affordeth notable Quarries, and ftones of many forts ;

a

(7?)

a little piece of icpoIi(hed,afFordeth fine yellow, red,
black, and white Veins. The Paface^pf the Count de
Draw, and that which Count Rofhal hath lately built
and nobly furniflied^ are very confiderable ; with many
others.

There ate alfo many fair Churches , rich Convents,
and Conventual Churches j as that of the' CaYmefitetS dr
the Franciscans, of the BenediSines, of St* Nicholas ; In
this Church I could not but take notice of the late Sepul-
chral Monuments of Count Strozzi and Cardinal Ha -
rack. The Dominican Convent is very fair* The
gujiines have a large Church, in the middle whereof they
have built a Chappel after the manner of the Holy Houfe
a tLoretto', upon the top of which hang the Colours ta-
ken from the Turfy and Tartars 9 many of which Enfigns are
not fquare like ours, but made Efcucbeomwife, fome fil-
led withCircles, wherein are expreffed half Moons* The
Jefuites Colledges are large, who feldome fail of noble
Convents, efpecially in places where they have fo good
footing as in this. The Front of one of their Colledges
openeth into a fair Piazza , in the middle whereof (lands
a large and high ccmpofite Column of Copper uponaPe-
deftal of white {tone, with four Angels with EfcucheonSs
and on the top the bleflfed Virgin ; Infcriptions alfo,
in which the Emperour dedicates yiujlria unto her Patro-
nage and Tuition. In another Market-place, where the
Town-houfe is, there is a handfome statua of Juftice in
Copper.

I could not but obferve the Scotch Church and Cloy-
fler, which gave alfo the name unto the Scotch Gate of the
City, becaufe I fomewhat wondered how the Scots in
old time fhould be fo confiderable in this place, but I
found by Information , 2nd the Account of Lazius and
Matthaus Merian in High' dutch, that this Convent was m

former

(78)

former times a great Receptacle for the Scots in their long
Pilgrimage unto Jerusalem , founded and endowed by
Duke Henry the Firft, in memory of St. Gregory : and it
may feemlefs flrange that the Scots (houid have a Convent
here, and be numerous in thefe parts in former Ages , if
we confider that St. Colman , one of the Saints of the
greateft Veneration in this Country was a Scotchman , and
fa id to be of the Royal Blood of Scotland , who, in his
pafTage to Jerufalem was murdered by the Eaurs or Coun-
try people at Stcckerau, four German miles from Vienna ,
and hanged on a Tree, where, as the Story goes, his Body
remained uncorru'pted for a year and a half, and divers
Miracles being affirmed of it, it was taken down, and
honourably interred near Stocker an $ but by Meginhard
Bifoop of Jichjiadt it was tranflated unto Me Ik , and af-
terwards fent into Hungary and his Head kept a long
time at Stullweij^enburg, or "jiUm Regalis, according to
the Account which is here given of this Saint.

The Church of St. Peter is alfo confiderable , not for
its Splendour but Antiquity , as being accounted the ol-
deft in the City, landing in a place where in old time
there flood an Altar in honour of Domitian , called Ara
Flaviana . In this Church Jieth the Body of that famous
and learned Perfon Wolfgangus Lazius, with this Epitaph
or Infcription:

Magntfico Nohili ClariJJimo atjue fummd eruditione or-
mtiffimo viro Domino Wolfgango Latzio Vien. Philofo -
phis atquc Medicins Doltori dr Profeffori Primario , Ce-
lehenimi Archigymnafn Viennenfis Retfori dr Superinten-
dent Caefareo, dr ejufdem Sacra Caefarea? zTtfajeJl. Fer-
dinand! SanttiJJima memoris Conjiliario dr Hifiortco Pe
ritijjimo , default 0 Anno Domini MDLXXXVI*

In

C 79 )

In the Church of the Gapucines Convent, are interred
the Emperour and his Emprefs, and the En>

prefs Maria, wife to Ferdinand the Third, who out of
their Devotion and Humility, chofe to be buried io a
Church of this poor Order. And the Cap mines not ad-

mitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches, as
in the Churches of other Orders, no Tombs are ereded
worthy fo great an Emperour, and fuch bmprefies.

But the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, contained
divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Perfons,
and is a large {lately Building , but fomewhat dark by
reafonof the thick painted Glafs: not covered with
Lead, but with Tiles of w ood, which is the only blemifli
thereof, yet makes a good (how. The Steeple and Spire
are very remarkable, as being high^ large, ftrong, and
handfome. On the top or Weathercock-place of the Spire
ftandsaCrofsunder a Star and half Moon, according ea
the Figure I haveelfewherefet down, which the People
think to be of Gold, orat leaft very well gilded : and in
the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and
whitiflh.

They have this Account how theie came firft to be fet
up in this place : That when Solyman the Magnificent be-*
fieged Vienna , perceiving the Forces in the City to be
obftinate, he had an intent to batter down the Steeple a-
bout their ears : But fomeof the Baffa's and great Com-
manders , advertifing him how unprofitable a bufinefs it
would prove, and withal when he took the City, what
an honour it would be unto him to have fuch a Noble Py~
ramid in his Dominions : He fent word into the Town,
That he was willing to fpare the Steeple, upon condition
that they would fet up the half Moon and Star (the T#r=
kifh Arms) upon the top thereof. They returned An-
fwer that they would , if he would fend the iame

unt©

(8® )

onto them , which he did , and they placed it where it
ftandech.

This Spire hath the largeft Crockets I have obferved
in any, they being above a yard long, and adorned with
foliage work. The Spire of Landfhute in Bavaria , is
accounted the higheft in Germany ; that of Strafburg the
neateft and faireft ; and this of Vienna the largeft and
ftrongeft. And therefore it is no wonder that when the
Ambafladours of Befna formerly came unto Vienna , they
fo often viewed and admired this Fabrick, and plainly
faid that all themony in their Country was not fufficient
to have built it.

This Steeple is accounted about four hundred fixty and
five foot high, being about half way up three hundred
and thirty eight fteps. Befides other Hills, I could fee
Hamburger Hill within two miles of Prefburg, and a
great part of jiujlria , which the long Courfc of the Da-
nube rend red verypleafant and delightful unto the eye.
In theChamber or Room from whence I had this proipefl-,
there is a Clock, whole Cafe being of wood, was in part
burnt down by Lightning , and therefore there is water
always kept in this placeto extinguilh the fire, and a
man continually watcheth in the place where the Bells
hand. There is alio an Inftrument of wood, or wooden

Bells or Hammers, which they make ufe of from Good-
friday till Eajier-funday, all the time that our Saviour was
in the Grave, during which time they permi t no Bells to
ring.

At one of the doors of the Church there is a Hone pla-
ced in the wall, which is generally conceived to be one
°f the ftones wherewith St.Stephen was ftoned. Itfeem-
ed tome fome kind of pebble, and is worn andpolilhed
by the hands of the people , who when they enter at that
door, do touch it with their fingers* I was alfo flawed

one

(It)

one of the ftones which killed St, Steven at St. Sernine]
or St. Saturnine's Church in I hclcufe in France , which isr
aChurch abounding with Relique-Raiities, and where
they alfo think they have the Bodies of fevrn of the A~
poftles, of St. George, of our King St. Edmund , and
of forty Saints.

In this Church of St. Stephen, befides many Monu-
ments of great Princes and famous Perfons, divers learn-
ed men have Sepulchral Infcriptions ; as Johannes Faber
Bijhop of Vienna ; Johannes CufpiniantM, and Sebaftiamss
Fengnageltus , formerly Library- keeper , Hilloriogra-
pher, and Counfellor to theEmpercur , an extraordina-
ry learned man, and skilful in fifteen Languages , as the
Jnfcription delivers 5 as Hebrew , Syriack 9 Chaldee ,
Perjian , Arabick , Turki(h$ zrflthiopkk 5 Greek ? Latin 9
Italian , French , Spanijh 5 German, Belgick and
life'

The Univerfity of Vienna is alfo remarkable, if we
confider the Antiquity thereof, the number ofSchclars^
their courfe of Srudies, their accommodations, privi*
ledges and advancements. This is Paid to have been be-
gun by Albertus the Third, above three hundred years
part 5 and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have been
borrowed from the Univerfity of Paris, and the Students
were did inguifhed into four Divifions or Nations ; who,
befides the General , have their particular Rules and
Officers, and were comprehended under the Claffis
of Auftrians 5 Nations of the Rhine , Hungarians , and
Saxons,

In the Aujlrian Divifion were contained the Friulians ,
all of the Dtoccfe of all with the other Pro*
vinces beyond the Mounta ns.

vian the Glafis of the R bine were comprehended Sue -
* Jlfatians , Franconians , Hafians, 1 all the Pro*

M vinces

0»*>

winces to the South-weft, as France, Spain, Navarre ,
Holland , Brabant.

In the third Claffis , ot Nat io Hungariae, were contain-
ed Hungarians, Bohemians , Polonium , Moravians , SW*-
vonians, all that fpeak the Tongue^ and airo

Germans.

To the CUffis , or Natio Saxonum, were reduced 5W#-
w , Weftphalians , Friflanders , Turingians , Mifnians *
Brandenburgers , P ruffians. Livonians 5 Lujatians , Pome-
ranians, with the Ultramarine Kingdoms of England ,
Scotland 3 Ireland , Sweden , Norway , and Denmark.

Thefe Diviftons take up all the Nations of Europe 5
and indeed there are Students hereof many Nations: and
upon Contentions and Differences the feveral will

hold unto their own, and take parts, and bandy againft
each other, but will all unite and hold together in differ-
ences with Towns-men or Jews, which happen fome times
unto an high degree.

They foilow here the old beaten way of Knowledge :
and I tnet with few who had any good infight in new Pht-
lopfhy ; but there are many good Philologers , and are well
verfed in Languages, Hiftory and Antiquity : and there
are many Learned Men either educated here, or come from
other parts.Some who had taken notice of the Royal Socie-
ty in London 5 were very inquifitive after it 5 and when I
bad fatisfied them in a!! particulars, were very much
pleafed therewith. If they flhould fall into the way of
Experimental Philo fophy, being very induftrious, ’tisve-
ry probable they may do much therein* and they were
fare to have the countenance of the Emperour. I found
them alfo much affefted with the EngUJh Society in other
parts of Germany. At the Univerfity of Altorff I was
much enquired of concerning it : and a Magiftrate of
Nwnbmg , who had got a Telefcope from London, invited

me

(§3)

me to his Houfe, topra&ife the way of ufing it* Her
Herr von Adkrfhelme of Leipficky a Perfon of great Cu~
riofity, was very inquifitive after the fame Society. And of
late years the Curiofi of Germany have held Learned Con-
ventions and Correfpondence, and printed their Obfer -
vations at Leipfick. And fince my Return into England ,
I have been folicited from CaJJovia in Upper Hungary , to
fend the 2 ranfatfions into thofe Parts*

During my (lay at Vienna , 1 went unto a publick Ana-
tomy of a Woman that was beheaded : the LeElure lafted
folong, that the Body, was Nineteen days unburied, it
was performed by a Learned Phyfician, Dr. Wolfftregel ,
who read in Latin to the fatisfaftion of all perfons. What
I moft particularly obferved therein was this3 The Pyra
midal Mufcles very plain and larger the Uterus larger
than is ufually obfer ved $ the Carlihgo Enfiformis double;
the Lungs very black ; the Eye was very well fhown 5 he
produced an artificial Eye of Ivory, and another large
one of Paflboard and Paper, contrived and made by him-
(elf; the Mufcles of the Pharynx, Larynx , Os Hyoides s
and the Tongue , after their diffeftion , he reduced very
handfomely into their proper places again, to (hew their
natural fituation and pofition. The Anatomy-Theatre was
of capacity to receive above an hundred perfons ; and
according to the cuftome of other places, to avoid imper-
tinent Speftators, a piece of Mony was given for admif-
fion. Of Anatomy-Theatres , until of late, there have been
few in Germany >or none. And when I was in the Anato-
my-School at Altorjf , near Nnrenburg , that learned and ci-
vil Profeffor, Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus , told me that the
fame was the Firft in Germany.

Paulas de Sorbait , Prime Profeffor, Phyfician unto £-
leonora the Emprefs Dowager, and Knight of Hungary 3
was the Re&or Magnificat* Zwelfer3 who writ Animad «

M 2 verfions

f«4>

vtrfions upon the DiJpenfatorj/ of Aufiurg, was in great re-
pute in Vienna^ and had built for himfelf a noble Houfe
in the City, but he died fome time before my coming thi-
ther*

In fine* the Tlniverflty is noble, their Advancements
confiderable * their Priviledges greats and they have the
power of life and death* from ancient and latter Concef-
fions of their Dukes and Emperours,

But the greatefl: luftre unto Vienna is the Refidence of
the prefent Emperour Leopold its ; he was born in the
year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperour Ferdinand the
Third • he was baptized by the Names of Leopoldus , lg*
natm, Francifcus, Balthazar , Jafephus, Felicianus. His
eldeft Brother Ferdinand 9 King of the Romans , died of
the Small Pox in his Fathers time. His Brother Carolus
Joftphus, Matter of the Teutonkk Order ± dyed 1662. He
married Margarets Infanta of Spainy daughter unto King
Vhilip the Fourth, whofe Children died Infants; a ver-
tuous, affable, grave, and worthy Prince, and feeraed to
me to live very happily herein the love and honour of his
People, Soldiers, and Clergy.

His Perfon is grave and graceful 5 he hath the Aujlrtan
Lip remarkably, his Chin long, which is taken for a good
Pby ftognotnical mark* and a fign of a conttant, placid*and
little troubled mind. He is conceived to carry in his
Face the lineaments of four of his Predeceffours, that is,
of Rudolpbus the Firft, of Maximilian the Firft,of Charles
the Fifth* and Ferdinand the Firfir. He was very affefli-
onateunto his Emprefs, who, though but young, was a
modeft, grave Princefs, had a good afpeft, was zealous in
her Religion* and an Enemy unto the Jews. He (hewed
alfo great refpedt and obfervance unto the Emprefs Dow-
ager Eleonora, who was a fober and prudent Princefs *
weltskittedinall kind of curious Works, and delighted

fometimes

<&s)

fometimes to ffioot at Deer from a Stand, or at other
Game, out of her Coach, He was alfo very loving unto
his Sifters, beautiful and good Ladies ; whereof one, the
eldeft, wasfince married unto that Noble Prince Michael
Wifnowitzski, King of Poland.

He fpeaks four Languages, German 5 Italian, Spanijh ,
and Latin* He is a great countenancer of Learned Men,
and delighteth to read , and when occafion permitted},
will pafs fome hours at ir* The worthy Petrus Lambe-
clm his Library Keeper, and who is in great efteem with
him, will ufuaily find out fome Books for him which he
conceiveth may be acceptable. While I was there he re-
commended a Tranflation of Religio ^Medici unto him ,
wherewith the Emperour was exceedingly pleafed, and
fpake very much of it unto Lambecim , infotnuch that
Lambecm asked me whether I knew the Author, he be-
ing of my own name, and whether he were living: And
when he underftood my near Relation to him, he became
more kind and courteous than ever, and defired me to
fend him that Book in the Original Englijh , which he
would put into the Emperours Library / and prefented
me with a neat little Latin Book, called Princeps in Com-
pendio, written by the Emperours Father , Ferdimndm
the Third.

He is alfo skilful in Mufick, compofeth well , and de-
lighted much in it, both at his Palace and the Church ,
which makes fo many Muficians in Vienna *, for no place
abounds more with them ; and in the Evening we feldoim
failed of Mufick in the Streets, and at our Windows %
And the Emperours delight herein makes the Church- men
take the greater care to fee off their Church-mufick , for
he goeth often to Church , and not to one, but divers, e-
fpecially the beft Conventual Churches ; and in his own
Chappel fome of his own CQmpofitions are often play’d*

OO

He hath alfo excellent Mufick in his Palace , both Vocal
and Inftrumental ; and his private Chappel is well fer-
ved, where befides the excellent Mufick, there are al-
ways eight or ten Counts, Pages to the Emperour, who
ferve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands 5
and after the manner of the Italian Princes, divers Eunuchs
to fing.

For his Recreations abroad, he delighteth much in
Hunting, efpecially of the wild Boar in due feafors ; I
have known him bring home fix Boars ina morning. Some
ftout perfons, particularly Count Nicholas Ser ini, would
encounter a wild Boar alone, but at laft he unfortunately
perilled by Qne, which hath made others more wary
fince 5 and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay, the Huntf-
men fo ftand about him, that the Emperour, or other
great perfons, may more fafely make ufe of their Boar-
fpears upon him*

Surely there are great numbers of them about the
Country, for they are no unufual or extraordinary Dill
in the City, though of a delicious and pleafing cafte* They
feed upon Acorns, Beech-majl, and Chefnuts , upon the
fpring or fprout of Broom , Juniper , and Shrubs , and up-
on the roots of Fern, and will range into Corn-fields,
and come out of Forrefts into Vineyards. The Huntf-
men are notably verfed and skilful in that Game; for
though they lee it not, they will diftinguilh a wild from
a common Swine, and ghefs whether that which they hunt
be Male or Female, old or young, large or .final!, fat or
lean ; and this they chiefly conjefiure from their tread
or foot, and the calling their hindfeet out of the track of
their forefeet.

The Emperour being fo good a Huntfman, it is the lefs
wonder that he is efteemed a good Hodman. Certain it
is5 that he hath a very noble Stable of Horfes, procured

from

(%)

from all patts^Turkijb^ Tartarian Polonian, Tranjyhanim^
Saxon,Bohemian,HHngarianNAfkS'>&c and they are well
managed ; and they ride than to the faiisfadion of the
Beholders.

Having feen the Arfenal at Venice , the Stores at Chat-
faant^ and the Naval Provisions at Jmfierdam , l ani not
like to admire any other* efpeeially fo far from the Sea r
and looked for nothing of that nature in this place. Not-
wichft&nding I found an A'rfenal * and place for Naval
VefTels to be fet out upon occafioo, and fome thereof
were employed in the laft Turkijh war, when they at-
tempted to deftroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks
had made over the Danube * a little above Gran and Bare *
han. They are built fome what like Galleys , carry great
Guns, and a good number of Souidiers, and will make
a fight upon the broad deep dream of the Danube t and
may be handfomely brought into the Town behind one of
the Baftions, when the River is high ; and hereof there are
fome at Rah and Komora , as I have declared elfewhere.

The Emperour hath many Counfellors, great Souidiers
and Courtiers about him $ among which thefe feemed of
greaceft Note.

Eufebins Wence flans Duke de Sagan , Prince Lob fa -
mtz , Pirme Counfellor , Hoff-meifter , of the Or-
der of the Golden Fleece 5 a perfon of a grave and fober
Afpeft, fomewhat blunt in convention, but of a gener*
ous temper, and free from all covetoufnefs, who fpent
his Revenues nobly, and unto his great reputation : He
was chief Favorite unto the Emperour* and though fome
had no great opinion of his Abilities, yet he was the firft
that discovered the laft Hungarian defefiion and revolt ,
whereby thofe Noble Perfons , Count Peter Serins and
NadaJH (whom I faw at Vknna) were brought unto their
ends*

Betirkm

Henrkus Gulielmus, Count of Stahrenberg , Ober-hojf
Marefchal , or Lord Marjbalof the Court .

Johannes Maximilianus , Count of Lamburg , Obey ft -
Rammer -Herr , or G#/*/ of the Chamber , a Perfon of
great efteem. The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are
numerous, and many are in extraordinary ; there may be
an hundred of them, all Barons and Counts . Every one
of them wears a Golden Key before his Breaft : and the
Grooms of the Bed-chamber wear one of Steel : Two of
each attend every Night*

Gundakems , Count Dietrichftein,Oberft-staIl-Meifier9
or Mafter of the Horfe .

Thefe are the Chief. Thefe following are alfo confi-

derable.

Count Sinzendorff, Oberfte-Jag-Meifter , Grand Vt*
neur^ or Hunts- Mafter , a Perfon in good favour with
tbeEmperour, who very much delighteth in Hunting, as
have moft of his PredeceflTors.

The Count of Aver [berg Oberft Falken-Meifter , C&///
Falconer , who hath twelve Falconers under him.

The Count of Paar , Chief Mafter of the Emperours
Foft ;

Leopoldus Wilhelmus , Marquifs of Baden , Captain
of an hundred Hartfhires , who are the Horfe-guard ,
and ride with Piftols and Carabines out of the City ; but
within Vienna they cary Launces and Javelins with broad
points.

Francifcvs Auguftinus , Count of Wallenfteyn, Captain of
an hundred of the Foot guards of a good Perfonage , and
well efteemed of by the Emperour.

Sixty, or more, for the number is uncertain, and
not limited 5, mod of them Counts and Barons .

Raymundusi Count de Montecucult, was his General,
Prefident of the Council of War, Governour of Raband

the

(89)

the Confines about it, and of tb e Order of ’the Golden
Fleece y a tall Perfon, fomewhat lean, but bath a fpittit in
his look : he is one of the oldeft Commanders in Europe ,
and performed good Service in Poland , Hungary , Ger-
many in many places, and is efteetned a prudent, valiant, and
fuccefsful Commander.

The Count de Sanches was a!fo a Commander of great
Fame, and in high efteera with the Emperour. He was
a Native of Rochelle \ he firft ferved the Swedes in the
German wars, and was a Colonel, but upon fame difguft
he forfook the Swedes, and ferved the lmperialijls , and
was made Govern our of Brin, thefecond Town in Mo-
ravia. After the taking of Cremhsm Juftria , General
Torjlenfon befieged Brin , and fent word unto theGovern-
our de Souches , That if he refufed to deliver up the Town
he would give him no quarter. Who anfwered him. That
he would not ask any, and alfo give none : and defended
the place with fu£b refoiution, that after many AfFaults,
Underminings, and Attempts by Granadd* s , Torjlenfon1
was forced to rife, after a Siege of four months, which
was fp advantageous unto and the Imperial affairs,

that the Emperour took efpecial notice of him, made him
a B<*r0*, andof his Privy Council . He commanded alfo
all the Forces in Vienna, and did notable Service in the
laft lurktjh wars. He took the City of Nitrapv Nitria „
not far from Strlgonium or Gran ; and took and flew fix
thoufand Turks which were fent by the Vizier of Buda a*
gaipft him : a worthy Perfon , and of a good Afpedh
Cojunt Souches the younger his Son, an Heroick Com-
mander,is Goverqour of the ftrong fortified place Leopold -
Hadt by Freijladt, a Perfon of great Civility, unto whom
I was much obliged.

. . .£$$$. Cpuat • Lefy who was fent

Apbgdfadour tqGonJantinofle to the Suit fin, from the Em-

^ perour,

(9°)

perour, is a Commander worthy of that efteem he hath
with the Emperour; a Perfon of great Courage, Civility
and Humanity, whichlmuft ever acknowledge.

The Courts of the Emprefs, and of the Emprefs Dow-
ager, are filled with Perfons of Note; and there are a
great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame,
as the Marquifs Fio , Sfork , Cops , and many more* Many
of the Clergy and Men of Learning, are in good efteem
with the Emperour ; but tb ejefuites <L "Milner and Bocca-
bell* are his near Favorites* Many Strangers, both Soul-
diers and Scholars, have built their Fortunes here* And
Purely Strangers of parts and induftry, Jo they be of the
Reman Churchy are not like to raife their Fortunes any
where better than in thefe parts.

Though the Emperour goeth not to war .in Perfon, yet
hath he been fuccefsful in his wars, efpeciaJly in thelaft
Battel with theTurksat Sr. Gedart , where the bufinefs was
bandfomly and aftively managed, to fee upon the body
of the Turks, which had paffed the River before the
whole Forces of the Vizier could come over, to the great
Daughter of the Januaries and Turks, who fought ftout-
ly, and were firft pur to a Retreat by the French Caval-
ry. Foratfirfl the Turks feemed to prevail, and had
flain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliaries
which came out of Franconia^nd after their cuftome, had
cut off their Heads.

Among the many notable things in Vienna, the Itnperi -
al Library is very remarkable. He who hath feen the
Bodleian Library at Ox ford , and the Vatican at Rome ,
would be much furprifed to find fuch a notable one here,
as may compare with them ; efpecially upon the extreme
Borders of the Learned part of Europe .

The number arid noblenefsof the Books doth much ex-
ceed the receptacle or place which confaineth them, as

making

-* \

'I

(90

making no fair ffiew at the entrance, and fomewhat want-
ing light* But as for the number and value of the Books*
they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none , but
rather excelleth any other Library in Europe. There was
a place defigned for the building of a fit receptacle for
them; bur, I know not how, a Theatre for Comedies is
now built in that place*

ft is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms, which
are fo well filled, that many Books are fain to lye upon
the Floor 5 and the Shelves ftand foc'ofe, that there is
but juft room topafs between them. The Manufcripts
ftand diftindt from the printed Books, according to their
Languages, being divided into fix Claffes , Theological ,
Juridical, Medical , Philo fopbical , Hifiorical , Philology
cal. There can Pearce be a more admirable Colkdiion
than the Manufcripts in part of the firft Chamber, of He-
brew, Syriac J^, Arabic k, Turkijh, Armenian, zAEthiofick^
and Chinefe Books.

It was begun, at leaft the Books began to be placed in
this receptacle, by ^Maximilian the Firft, but hath been
much encreafed by fucceeding Emperours, moft of them,
fine e Rodolpbus the Firft, being much addi&ed unto
Learning, there having been large acceflions from many
noble Libraries, and moll upon the coll of the Emper*
ours. The cboiceft Books in the famous Library of Bit -
da, of King ^Matthias Gorvinus , Son unto Huniades ,
are now in it. The norable Library of Wolfgangus La
zius , who was Library- Keeper, was brought hither, and
Three thoufand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in
this Repofitory*

Jugerius Bujbequius , fometime Library-Keeper hereof,
added much unto it ; and in his two TurfyJIj Embaffies
procured great number of noble Greek Manufcripts at
Gonfiantinople^ which are inferibed with his own hand,
r ad N 2 Aug.

(92)

'Jug. de Bufl>eck*emit GwftanwtoPoU- A great many were
added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cujpint •
anus , Library Keeper, and Counfellor unto the Emper-
our. The notable Libraries and Mathematical Inftru-
ments of Tycho Brahe , Kepler , and Gaffendus , were pur-
chafed for ir. But the larged acceffion was made by the
noble Library of Count Fugger , which confiding of fix-
teen thoufand Volumes , was purchafed by Ferdinand the
Third. , Many were brought, fome few years pad, from
the KAmbrrfun Library by Inftruck, by the Learned Pe-
trus Lambtcius, Library Keeper, Hidoriograpber, and
Counfellor unto the prefent Emperour^ who hath alfo
an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the
Imperial . he then reckoned the Volumes in this great
Library to amount at lead to Fourfcore thoufand; and
by this time that number may be increafed, for he ad-
deth fome yearly. And. the number might almoft be
endlefs, if they would make ufe of their priviledge, for
theEmperour loath a right to have two Books of all that
are printed in Germany .

They have alfo a great advantage at Vienna , to acquire
good Manufiripts from the Turkijh Dominions , for the
Emperour is obliged to have a Refident w ith the Grand
Signor wherefoever he moveth or ordereth him to bejeven
at the lad fight of St. Godart , the Emperour’s Refident
was in the JurkiJbC amp. And when I was at Lariffa in
Thejjaly , the Refident Signor diCafa Nova , was inquifi-
tive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Mona-
fteries and other places. And this Emperour , like his
Father, will fpare no cod toward fuch Acquiries.

By the efpecial favour .of my noble Friend Lambecmy
I went many times into this Library * and he was fo cour-
teous as to Jet me have what Books I defired unto my pri-
vate Lodging t He^ would flaew me divers Books upon

what

(93)

what Subjeft I required, and offered me a fight of what
Books he thought rare and eft unable ; and amongft others
I could not but take notice of thefe following.

A Letter of the prefent Emperour of China, in the
Chinefe and Tartarian Languages > unto the prefent Em*
perour of Germany , weaved in a very fine Roll.

Another old Roll written in unknown Letters, yet a
little refembling the Greek ♦

A Book^'in the Runick Language.

A very fair ^lanufcript of Ptolemy , with the Mapps
drawn in Colours.

The oldejl Manujcript and true Exemplar of Livie , in
large Letters, without diftindion of Words or Sentences ,
very uneafie to be read , a thoufand years old , and
brought, not many years fince, from the Library near
Injpruck.

An old fair Greek Manujcript of Diojcorides, written
eleven hundred years fince, in very large Letters, w itbout
diftance of Words , or Accents, wherein ail ch e Plants are
lively painted ; alfo the Figures of Diofcoridcs , Galen ,
Pamphilus , Cratevas, and other ancient Phyjicians, bought
of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats by Eufi
bequius.

A Book of Geometrical Proportions demonftrated in the
China Language.

Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pi-
ctures.

A noble old Greek Manujcript in great uncial Letters ,
without flops, points, or diftance of words.

An ancient Greek Manujcript of the Book^o f Genefis , in
large Letters, without diftance or accents, thirteen hun-
dred years ago; wherein are Forty eight Pictures or
Draughts in Miniature or Water colours, much conducing
to the knowledge of ancient Habits, the manner of Feajl-

**g*

04)

ifigy poftures at Meals f waiting of Servants and Muficol
Injlruments: Wherein I could not but take notice of the
Golden Spot upon Jofephs breaft ; and the manner of the
Execution of Pharaoh*s Baker , his Head being put
through a forked piece of wood , and his Hands tyed
behind him.

A fair Book of Albert Durer , wherein are many fine
Paintings in Miniature or Limning ; as alfo a Sphere , and
within ic a Globe carved and painted by him.

A fair Book of Michael Angelo^ wherein, befides many
rare things in Architecture, are all the paintings and de -
figns of the Belvedere in little.

A fair Alcoranin Arabick, interlined with the 7 urfyfb
to explain it.

The Bible in the Goptick and Perfian Languages.

Luther s own Bible , marked with his own Hand i and
interlined by him with Notes in ma.ny places.

A fair Greek Manujcript of the Nevp lejlament , fifteen
hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Pur-
ple.

Ther$ was a\fo a Magical Glafi, obtained by the Em-
perour Rodolphus , whereby to fee Apparitions , and con-
verfe with Spirits ; which fome conceive to be the fame*
or of the like nature with that ufed by Kelly.

Of ancient Greeks Roman, and Gothick Medals and
Coyns , in Gold, Silver, and Copper , to the number of fix-
teen rhoufand. Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to
have two of the Emperour Marcus Otho .

I let fall fome Drops into this Ocean , adding fome
€oyns. Intaglio* s} and Inscriptions not to be found in that
large work of Gruterus ; which having found in the Em-
perours furthefl: Dominions and Tnrkijhpansy long out of
his pofTeffion, where there had been no great enquiry af-
ter them ; were iffcewed unto his Imperial Ma jefty by Pe-
trus

(95)

trus LmbcciuS) and fo well accepted by him, that hefaid
I might have the ufe of what Books I de fired ; and at my
return into England he gave me a formal Pafs in Latin for
my fafe Travel, and that myTrunksor Goods might not
be fearched, which takes off a great deal of trouble in
pafling fo many Principalities and free Cities , Command*
ingall in his own Dominions and Requeuing all Princes
in Germany to favour me, and permit me to pafs freely
without moleftation; It was thus Subfcribed ,

Leopoldus Gulitlmus
Comes in Kinigfeggs.

Ad mandat um Sacr. Cafi
Majejlatis proprinm
Better*

The Rarities of the great Duke of Tufcany , Thelrar-
fure of Loretta , Ss Mar 4, St. Denis in France , of the
Duke of Saxony at Drefden, and others, were very fa-
tisfaftory to me. Yet having a fair opportunity, 1 would
not leave Vienna without a fight of themoft noble Trea~
fury or Repojitory of his Imperial Majefty ; efpecially ha-
ving heard fo much thereof, and knowing it to be the
Collection of many fucceeding Emperours. I therefore
took a fit opportunity to remain divers hours in it, and
was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent
Curiofities thereof. To fee down all I fa w, were a work
too large for this Volume ; and the Catalogue of them *
which is kept in this place, taketh up a large Volume in
Folio* I fhall therefore only mention theft following 5

where-

C?6)

whereby feme conjefture may be made of the reft.

In the firft Cupboard or Cafe were many noble Veflfels*
turned and lhaped out of Ivory , a Cup turned by the
Emperours own Hand ; another turned by Ferdinandus
the Third* Gallant Cups of timber ; Spoons and Veffels
of Mother of Pearl ; many noble works in Coral j a fine
Galley in Ivory > and Cups made out of Rbinocerot's horn.

In the fecond,

An Elephant of Ivory with a Cajlle upon his back, and
over the Cajlle a Ship, with much other fine work in the
fame piece* Two fair Pillars of Ivory ; good Baffo Re-
lievo in Ivory 5 a fair Cranium or Deaths- bead 9 and much
other variety of Ivory work. A Pifture in Oyl of Ga-
nimede , by Corregio .

In the third,

A fine Picture of an old Man's head in Oyl by Albert
Dureri great Variety of Watches and Clock -vcor\ in Sil-
ver : a fine Centaur in silver , which is a curious Watch .

In the fourth.

More Watches and Clock-work ; a gallant Ship oi Silver,
a Triumphal Chariot, a Turk riding apd attended, a Globe
and a Sphere in Silver , a curious Landslip in Oyl by Cor -
regio, a Cupid by the fame hand, with a fine Copy of it.

In the fifth,

A curious Filigrane Handkerchief , and two fair File*
graneVlatesbxox\$ti.outofSpainby the Emprels Mar-
garita 3 an Indian Basket of an Indian fort of Filegram
mixed with Birds > a Bafon of Agate finely wrought with
filver Craw fifhes in it.

t To

(97)
to-tfee fixth,

Is contained a ftrange Collection of Intaglie and old Ro-
man Stones , admirable for their work and Jargenefs. A
large Agate whereon is wrought theHiftory of that Victory
which Augufius Gafar obtained over the Dalmatians and
Pannonians in the ninth year of our Lord ; about five
inches long, and four broad, highly valued.

An Onyx with the Head of Alexander and Olympia.

A Shell with a Battel carved in it.

A Chain with the Heads of all the Aafirian Family.

A Dog in a very large Sardonyx,

In the feventb,

A noble Head in Oyl by Hans van Ach. The Head
of Maxi mill anus the Firft in Plaijler, with a lock of his
own Hair. Mother of Pear I m many fbapes. Fine Baf
kets, and the twelve Cm far's Heads.

In the eighth, moft of Chryfial,

A noble Veffel about a yard and half high, made out
of one piece of Chryfial , An Urne. The Head of the
Emprefs. A fair Dragon ♦ The Head of the Queen-
Mother of France. A Chryfial in which the Picture of
our Saviour may be feen thrice one way, and once another
way*

The ninth of Chryfial alfo,

A noble Eveer- A fair Veffel of very clear Chryfial ,
lately bought. A large Head. Fair Crofjes, and other
Varieties.

The tenth of Gold and precious Stones.

Five Crowns. The Imperial Crown ; rich in Jewels ,
and hath a very large blew Saphir on the top* A Model of
that Crown with which the Emperour is crowned , much

O richer

( 9 8)

richer than the Original* A “Paragon Diamond of feven-
teen Carats and a half Very large Rubies. A Scepter of
Unicorns horn , fet with rich Stones. A of the

greateft Diamonds. A magnificent Scefter , Globey Crofl,
and Crown, which coft feven hundred thoufand Crowns.
An O^/ bigger than my hand, as it was take*! out of the
Mine ; and many other fair Opals , A very large Emerald
A S^//> in an Emerald . A fair Ring-Dial.

The eleventh of G^.

A noble £4^# ufed at the Baptifm of the Aujlrian Fa*
mily . Scepters, ScimetersyKnives, and other rich Pr*-
fents ham the Turfa Three rich Dog-Collars , fent with
three out of England , with this Mark on them
DC DC* A large lump of pure Gold, as it was taken out
of the Mine, as broad as my hand. A fair piece of Gold
Ore , wherein the pure Gold fhooteth upon a white Stone .
Divers great Bafons of Gold and Coral.

In the twelfth*

Veffels of JaJpis, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Gran dies,
§ups of Onyx, Sardonyx. Large ones of Lapis Nefhriti -
ms a and a great one of an methyfi .

In the thirteenth.

A large high Veffel of Bohemian Topaz. Flowers well
made out of precious Stones* A Cup of an Hungarian Dia-
mond. A piece of Ambergreece as big as a mans head,fent
from the Grand Signor* A noble jf afpis-Jlone. A large
Stone of Agate on the outfide, and a bed of large J.me~
thyjls .naturally in it in the middle, which is an extra*
ordinary andpleafint Rarity,

la the reft,

Noble Chrysolites , Jacynths , Oriental Granates, Beryls
or Aquamarines. The notable rich Smaragdus , or

or a Cup out of thatSV<?#r. Three great ones ha~
viog been already taken out, valued at three hundred
tboufand Crowns, A Picture in Oy/ of the little King
Uladijlaus Lokyh, King of Hungary . Tee rich Turkijh
Saddles with Furniture for Horfes, fet with fair Turcots
Stones 4 A great number of Go/d' fVjj/eZf and fine Figures
in Coral, Turkijh Knives, Gauntlets, and Table men of Gold.
Delicate Pictures in Wfo#. Very large Bezoar- (tones. In-
dian-gold Cards and Counters ♦ A vaft Medal of the £#5?-
for ours Arms, weighing two thoufand two hundred D«-
otf/, or a thoufand pounds Englijh. A Cup out of Solo-
mons Temple . Fair Amber* Rare Inlaying in fTW.

and other St atm's out of a very high Rhinoceros' s
horn. A fine Figure of the Mountain Vefuvius. Jewels
with black Feathers given by the Turkifh AmbaJSadours . A
notable Figure of a lean Skeleton Priejt , who lived fo
four years. A noble Cabinet-clock with large motions.
A fair £4/0# and Ewer of carved King Philip the

Second of Spain in Diamond Armour, fet in Gold . A neat
Picture of an old Man courting a young Woman , with this

JrCtum Annulum negejtato .

A (wallowed by a Peafant near Prague , which was
nine months in his £*<w*I^,and fafely cut out 1 602. The
like happened alfo to a perfon in PrimayA which Daniel
Becker hath written a peculiar Trad under this Title, De
Cultrivoro Pruffiaco. A fair Crucifix of Pearl. Indian
Pictures made of Feathers. The King of Sweden , Gufta-
vus Adolphus's Buff coat in which he was killed at the Bat-
tel of Lvt&en. Till/s Sword. An Angel in Ivory with

O 2 Hair

(roo)

Hair and Clothes of Filegrtme of Gold. A neat Crucifix
of Wood by Albert us Durer , Two very large Looking-

glajfes with the Frames of Silver * All the GcJJels writ-
ten and painted. Many brave Status's and Figures e-
very where. The Head of Charles the Firfr King of Eng-
land, in white Marble * A Pedijlalof Amber, over which
a Groff. The Head of Sc. Valerius Bifhop of Triers. The
Picture of St. Katherine of Sienna , d\ awn by Sigifmund
King of Poland. APiftureof the Emperour as hegiveth
Audience , to be looked upon through a little round
hole. A neat Table of Inlay9 d Stone made by the prefent
Emprefs Dowager Eleonora . A Nail of our Saviour *s

Groff almoftafoot long; our saviour* s Blood $ and two
Thorns of his Crown, the one whiter than the other. Prteffs
Garments covered all over with large Pearl . The great
and high efteemed Agate Dijh , between three and four
fpans Diameter, with X R ISOS naturally in it. Unto
which one applied that of St* Luke, Dica vobis quia fi hi
tacuerint, lapides clamabunt ,

Unto which magnificent Rarities there is one more
added, the noble of Pearlof eight yards long, ta-
ken from the Graff T}k&ly in the late Hungarian war, as I
underftand fince my Return.

I went unto divers noted Places about Vienna : I walk-
ed unto the Hill of Vienna, two Englijh miles diftant from
the Town, going up all the way by an eafie Afcent 3 from
whence I had a profpeftof the City5and the Campagnia
about ir, together with the high Mountains in Steirmark
covered with Snow : and in my return faw the Palace of
theEuiprefs Dowager without the Town, called la Favo-
rita , and palled by the Convent of the Paulint.

About two Englijh miles Eaftward from Vienna , there
is a very noble Garden-place belonging to the Emperour,
built by Rodolphus the Second, which hath been formerly

well

(roi)

well furnifhed, and provided with Plants, but now feems
to be neglefled, and fomewhat ruinous. It confifieth of
an inward and an outward fquare Garden : The inward is
two hundred ordinary paces fquare, aboutthefame big-
nefs with the Place Royal at Paris i It hath a Portico or
Cloyjler , fupported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on
each fide, and is covered with Copper $ as are alio the
Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold.
Befides this, there is ah handfome row of Buildings well
feated, called ItieW’gabm , in which at ptefent are many
wild Beads kept. Lions aod Tig^es b;eed here, and
have y oungones* Some fay this was the place of Solymm
the Magnificents Tent when he befieged Vienna*

There isalfo, about two or three miles from Vienna^
a noted place of Devotion, called Arnols , much frequen-
ted, efpecially in Lent, divers carrying Croffes very
heavy all the way upon their fhoulders. There is here a
httleHoufe built exaftly after that of the Sepulchre at
Jerufaiem$ and alfoa handfome Copy of the Pidure of
our Saviour and the V irgin Mary, with their exad heights
That of our Saviour is about two yards high j that of the
blefTed Virgin three or four fingers breadth lower : Thefe
are taken from the Original in St.Johnde Lateran at Rome.
Hither the Emprefs defired to go one morning from her
own Palace on foot, out of Devotion, which fhe perform-
ed, though with a great deal of difficulty , fhe being not
ufed to walk , and the way was dufty. The Emperour
accompanied her, and all the Court followed on footr
which made a handfome fhew.

Nearer unto Vienna there is alfo a remarkable place for
Devotion, called Itzing: and in the way from Vienna
unto it, the twelve Stai ions of theCrofsare marked cut
in imitation of what isobferved near Jerufalem , in the
VkCrmSj ovDolorofa , in our Saviours proceeding from

the

(102)

the Gity unto Mount Calvary \ the Figures thereof are
printed, and the feveral paces between every Station fet
down. The Emperour hath a handfome Park near Vien-
na, called th zBrater, wherein I beheld theeffefis of the
great Lightning and Thunder which happened three
daysbefore, upon many great Trees which were torn ,
fplic, or twifted. There is a Houfe of Pleafure in it,
where among other things, I could not but take notice of
a Mufical Inftrument which I had not feen before , a sea
or Chepdrum 5 it hath a Cord like that of a Sea-trumpet?
but fouodeth like a Kettle-drum ,

I wentalfo unto haxambourg, whither the Emperour
often retired} ; he hath a Houfe in this place, but it is
old, and not large. There is alfo a Houfe of Pleafure in
the Mote.into which there is no ocher pafTage but through
a high Corridor e. The Caftle is commodioufly feated for
the Emperours recreation ; and there is an eight-fquare
Houfe in the Marjb , from which the Nobility and the
Emprefs Dowager fometimes ufed to Choot,Che being very
expert therein. Over the Gate of the Emperours Houfe
hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone, whereof I could get no
better account, then they were the Rib and Jaw-bone of a
heathen- maid. They feemed to me to be Bones of an Elephant
But many things that areold or obfcure, they call, in this
Country, Heathen:asi?o?w4^Coyns, they call Heathen mony.
And the Peafants brought me , in a place which had been
formerly an old Roman Station, part of the bit of a Bridle
digged up, which they concluded to be a Heathen Key,
From hence I went unto Maanerfdorjf , feated not far
from the River Leyta, where there is a natural^ Bath ,
called th etvildekath] it arifeth under a Church, the Church
being built over the Spring-head. The water of it is
but Lukewarm, and therefore when they defire it hotter,
they boy 1 it, and fo bathe in Tubs in a large room.

From

(log)

From that Subftance which fticketh to the fides of tffe
Coppers-in the boy ling- of it, they judge it to be impreg-
nated with S'uifhur , Saltpeter , and Chalk. The water
colours the (tones, and makes them look, when wet, like
fine Turquiifes. And the vapour of the Bath hanging up-
on the Mofs on the Tides, gives it an Amber or Gold co*
lour. The Phyficiansof Victim have given a good ac-
count concerning the ufe of thefe Baths in High-dutch.
Mot far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone , out of
which a great part of Vienna is built. The Stones being
large they cut and fquare them at the Quarry.

From hence 1 proceeded to the Netvjidler-fea or Lake,,
fo called from Newfidle, which is a Town feared upon the
Northern part of it, confiding of one fireet and foroe
back=houfes,andafmaH, fquare, old Caftle upon a Hill,
from whence I had a good propped; over the Lake. 1 1 is
about three German miles broad, and feven miles long.
The faired Lake in thefe parts, affording plenty of Fifh ;
encompaffed and thickly fet about with fmall Towns and
Villages; and hath no River, at lead not confiderable ,
running into or out of it. A little way from the Gate of
Nervjidle they dig out a black earth, out of which they
make Salt peter. In this Journey, not far from Himburg ,
we paffed by a place called Raudyeard, which, though ic
' feems not high, looks over a great pare of Juftria. and
as far as Erin, thefecond City of Moravia , a part alfo
of the Kingdom of Bohemia, and a part of the Kingdom of
Hungaria. I went afterwards four English miles up the
Stream of the Danube , to fee a noted Quarry of Stone in
a Hill called Jltenburg. The beds, rows , or cafes of
the Stones lye not horizontally , but rather elevated
Northward, about the height of the Angle forty, yet are
not always fo regularly placed, but rather follow the
Ihape of the Hill , and according to that are differently

fit uated.

(i°4)

fituated. Here I alfo obferved a Subftance between a
Clay and a Stone called Leberjlein, or Liverftone ; and
upon many of thefe Stones I found the figures of Trees
and Leaves5though not fo deep or neat as upon the Stones
by Florence ; yet very prettily marked, and often with
broader Leaves than l had elfewhere obferved. I pafTed
forward to Clofter-Neuburgy a Town mod of it belonging
to that notable rich Monastery feared here, founded by
St* Leopoldus Marquefs of Aujlria,and fince much enriched
by fucceeding Donations*

Matthaus Merian hath a goodcut oftheProfpeft of the
Danube here abouts, and in what manner it paffetfc down-
wards between the two great Hills of Kalenburg and Bifn-
burg. Upon one Peak of Kalenburg live divers Carnal-
dulenfes , of an Order the mod fevere of any, living mod
upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of Hermites, Near
their Cells they had paved the ground with thole Stones
I mentioned, which were naturally marked with the Chapes
of Trees and Plants.

After an open Autumn there followed a flharp Winter
at Vienna , in the months of December and January. The
branches of the Danube were foon frozen over.The main
Stream, by reafon of itsfvvift Currenr,held out longer,but
was afterwards alfo frozen. Some have thought that this
River is more apt to freez than others. And we read of
Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen ;
but I could not make any regular Obfervation thereof.
This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow,
afforded handfbme Recreations untomen, andfome unto
the Ladies, in running Courfes in handfome Sleds and
Devices upon the Snow. Their Sleds were well contrived
in the Chape of Gryphins , ligers , Swans , Scallop Shells ,
Dolphins , Peacocks, and the like Guriofities, carved, paint-
ed, and gilded. The Lady fits in one of thefe, richly ha-
bited

bited in Velvet, lined with rich Furrs, fet off with Lace
and Jewels, in a Velvet Gap lined with Sables. The Sled
is drawn by a Horfe, dreffedupwith Feathers of all co-
lours, and Bells hanging about him, a pair of Stags horns
behind his head, Ribbons and other Ornaments : one or
more Pages ride by on Horfe-back with Torches in their
hands. And after this manner they perform their Courfe
upon the frozen Snow about the /free is of Vienna, in the
night, with good fpeed one after another. A Gentleman
fits behind the Lady and guides the Horfe. But the Froft
breaking up put an end to thefe Recreations. The Froft
began and ended here the fame day that it began and end-
ed in England.

The Feftivity of chriflmas was obferved much after the
fame Manner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities as in Italy,
On Chrifimai-day the Emperour dined publickly, attend-
ed with many Nobles and great Perfons, and three re-
markable low Dwarfs. Upon St. Stephens-day he went
to the Cathedral of Sf. Stephen , and went up to the Altar,
kneeled, and kiffed the Plate whereon the Hoftia had lain.
At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide, the old cuftome of choo-
fing King and Queen was obferved at Court.Count Lejley
happened to be King, the Emperour laid the Cloath ,
and the Emprefs filled out Wine, together with other old
Cuftomes.

Before chrifimaa there was extraordinary mirth and
jollity at the Court upon occafion of a Marriage: For
Count Seratt, Governour of Gratz in Styria, married a
natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth , King of Spain ,
which was obferved with many noble Solemnities and
Bravery. And the Nobility and Ladies were fo fub-
ftantially fplendid, that I was much furprifed there-
at.

P

This

(io6)

This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the
Count of Draun , who was Colonel of the Forces in
Vienna, and who had one of the nobleft Houfes in the
City; his Corps was brought out of Italy, and interred
in the Dominican Church, where he formerly built a
very fair Altar, there was raifed for him a Cajlrum Do-
Uric, handfomely contrived and fee round with white
Wax Torches and Candles.

While I was in Vienna, the Emprefs Margarita was
delivered of a Daughter , which was Chriftned by the
Name of Maria , Antonina, Jofcfha, Benedict a, Rofalia ,
Petronella, but fire lived not many months. When the
Emprefs came abroad, fhe brought the Child to the Au-
gufiines Church, where Cardinal Carlo Carajfa, the Pope’s
Nuncio, received it, blefled it, and laid it upon the
Altar.

During my flay here, the El eft ion was in readinefs for
a King of Poland, after the voluntary refignat ion of that
Crown by King Cafimir ; and Couriers often paffed be-
tween that Country and this. There were Competitors
the Czar of Muscovy % Son, the Duke of Newburg , and
the Prince of Lorrain. The French moved aftively for the
Duke of Newburg , the Emperour for the Prince of
Lorrain, w ho was then at Vienna, in great favour with
the Emperomv who greatly promoted his intereft j a
Perfon of great efleem, and who, if General Luhomirski
had been living, who was his intimate Friend, in all pro-
bability might have obtained theCrown > and thereupon
it was conceived that he fhould have married the Emper-
our’s Sifter. Bat the Poles made choice of one of their
own Country, who was no Competitor, Michael Wifnt -
mtski lately deceafed3 who alfo married the Siller of
she Emperour.:

When

(io7)

When I was here, there were many AmbafFadours of
Note, Don Balthafar dela Cueva, Marquifs of Malagon ,
and brother to the Viceroy of Naples, was Ambaffadour
for Spain. Cardinal Carlo Caraffa was the Pope’s Nuncio*
The Venetian Ambaffadour Extraordinary, foliciced for
affi (lance for Candia, and he obtained the Regiment of
Portia under Marquifs Pio. Count Souches the younger^,
who was Governour of Leopoldjladtj and many noble and
valiant Souldiers were preparing for that Expedition,
The Turks gave affurance of the Grand Signor's intention
to maintain the Peace inviolably 5 and requefted the Em-
perour not to a (Tift the Venetians or Tranfilvanims s nor
to promote, but rather hinder, the Election of the Em-
perour of Mufcovy $ Son to the Crown of Poland* The
Eifhopof Beziers, fentby theKingof France to the E~
le&ion of theKingof Poland, came not hither, but paf-
fed through Nurtnbnrg, where I lodged at the fame Inn;
They were generally here againft the French Imereft, and
fo were a great part of the Polijh Nobility, An Ambaffa-
dour came alfo from the cham of Tartary* to confirm a
Peace, and afford mutual Affiftanee upon occafion. Cha
Gagi Aga was the Ambaffadour , who brought a Prefent
of the beft Tartarian Horfes , which are of high efleem
forfwiftnefs, hardinefs, boldnefs in palling frozen Ri-
vers, and taking and fwimming over great Streams. He
was difmiffed with noble Prefents of Platec The Em*
perour prefented the Cham of Tartary with a fair Silver
Bafon and Ewer, and a curious Watch \ and fent Prefents
nnto the Chammine his Wife, 5 and alfo to his Sifter and
four Brothers, His Followers were flout men , of good
ftature, courfe Complexions, wearing long furr’d Veils
and Cal pack’s, or furr’d Caps. Some of them bad filver
Rings with the fame Signatures of the Turkish Seales.
They took much Tobacco in very long Pipes, Their

P 2 Tobacco

08)

Tobacco is not in Rolls, but in Leaves, and dry* They
went about wandring and gazing at moft things, as Chur-
ches, Houfes, Shops: And took much delight to be in
the Fair, where they would take much notice of fmall
trifles. Yet thefe are the men that make fuch fad Incur-
fions into the Eaflern parts of Europe, and carrying away
fo many thoufands, fell them to the Turks, and forepair
the defeft of People in Turky . And now after the Con-
fumption of men in Confiant'wople, and the Country about
by the Plague, are like to be adive in that Trade, ho-
ping to find better Markets for their Plagiaries and De-
predations.

There are divers Greeks who trade to Vienna, and ma-
ny live in the Town, among which I met with three con-
fiderable perfons. One a grave Abbot, who was forced
from his Convent by the Turk, upon fufpicion that he cor*
refponded with thofeof Candia. Another who went by
the name of Ccnftantinus Catacuzenos , and was of the
Blood Royal of the Catacuzeni . The third was Jeremi*
asu GreekYntCt, who had travelled through Italy and
France into England, and from thence through the Low-
Countries and Germany to Vienna , and intended for Con*
Jlantincple .. He came into England to enquire after a
young man who was in a Ship which was firft taken by an
jllgerine, and afterwards by an Englijh man of war in the
Levant. He was very kindly ufed in England , and particu-
larly at Cambridge. He did a great deal of honour at
Vienna unto the Englijb Nation* declaring that they were
the moftcivi.1, generous* and learned people he had met
with in all his Travels, and that he no where found fo
many who could fpeak or underfland Greek, or who
gave him Co good fatisfaflion in all parrs of Knowledge ;
And as a teflimony of his refpeft and gratitude, requeued
asetoencloieaGr^Letter unto Dr. Pierfin, now Lord

Bifliop

(ro?)

Biflicfp of chejler, and Dr. Barrow, now Matter of Tri-
nity Colledge \\\C>imbridge.

Moft men live here plentifully , there being abundance
of all provifion. They have great quantity of Corn ,
which upon Scarcity , by the help of the Danube, might
be brought unto them from remoter parts. The Country
affordeth fuch plenty of wine, that they fend a confide-
rable quantity up the River. They have alfo rich wines
out of Hungary and Italy, and fuch variety, that there are
more than thirty fevera! fortsof Wine to be fold in Vien~
na . They are not alfo without good Beer* Hal/ladt in
Jujiru affordeth them Salt, where they makeit by letting
in water into the hollow parts of a Mountain , where it
drioketh in the Saltof the Earth, and is afterwards let
out and boiled up. This affordeth great profit to the
Emperor, and therefore the Hungarian Salt isnot permit-
ted to be brought higher than Prefburg. They have al fo
plenty of Sheep and Oxen 5 but for Oxen at prefent they
are alfo fupplied from Hungary , nor only from the Coun-
tries in the Emperours Dominions, but from the Turkifli
parrs, by permifiionof the Grand Signor ; and they are
brought hither by the Eaftern Company of Vienna. They
eat much wild Boar, whereof the Fat is delicious, like
that of Venifon with us* They want not Hares, Rab-
bets, Partridges, Pheafants. A Fowl called Hafenhendal,

or Gallina Cory Jorum, is much efteemed by them, which
made me the more wonder to meet with fomeodde diflies
at their Tables $ as Gmny-pigs, divers forts of Snails ,
and T ortoifes.

The Danube , and many Rivers which run into it, afford
them plenty of Fifh, extraordinary Carps, Trouts , Ten-
ches, Pikes, Eels, feveral forts of Lampries , and many
Fiflies finely coloured ; the white Fifli , Crevifes very
large 1 the beft come out of the River Smchet , net far

from

(no)

from Vienna They have alfo that fubftantial large fifii,
called a Scbeiden, or Silurw Gefneri , larger than Pike ,
Salmon, or any of our River Fifties ; but the great Fifties
called Haufons, or Hufones , in Johnftonus , for Jargenefs ex-
ceed all others ; fome being twenty foot long. Some
think this to be the fame Fifli which (Lilian naraeth An-
facets#, and fpeaketh largely of the fifliing for them in
IJler. I was at the fifhing places for Haufons in Schtit
Ifland, between Prefburg and Konsara, for they come
not ufually higher, efpecially in fhoals; and it is much
that they come fo high, for they are conceived to come
out of the Buxine- fea, and fo up the ftream. They eat
them both frefli and falted ; they tafte moft like Sturgeon .
It is a Gartilagineous Fifli , confifting of griftles, and
they have a hollow nervous chord all down the back ,
which being dried ferveth for a whip. When they fifli
for them they blow a Horn or Trumpet, and know where
they go by the moving of the water* From Venice they
are fupplied with Oyfters, with fait Sturgeon , and fome-
tirnes with red Herrings, and great variety of other Fiflhes
pickled up: as alfo with Oranges, Limons , and other
Fruits. Obferving much freedom, mufick, and jollity in
the City. I wondered how they could content them-
felves without Plays, for there were few while I was
there, till the Players came hither out of Saxony, and a-
ded here for a time. The Jefuites would fometimes en-
tertain the EmperourandEmprefs with a Comedy at their
Colledge ; and I had once the favour to be at one when
they wereprefent*

But they have Dancing and Fencing often , and every
Holy day after dinner, the people flock to fome Inns where
there is Dancing in the inward Rooms , and Fencing and
Playing of Prizes upon a Stage in the Yard ; and at the
Windows, or from the Galleries, behold the Fencers

playing

Rutten. out of die Danube

Groridel

I-OkicrTr-

.... ■' -V

4

.

(Ill)

playing at federal Weapons ; and commonly pals the reft
of the day in delights and merry Company.

In Treafon and high Crimes they cut off the right Hand
of the Malefaftor, and his Head immediately after. I faw
a Woman beheaded fitting in a Chair, the Executioner
ftriking off her Head with a Fore-blow, fhe behaved her
felf well, and was accompanied unto the Market place
by the Confraternity of the Dead. , who have a charitable
care of fuch Perfons, and are not of any Religions Order,
but Lay men, among whom alfo in this place there are
many Fraternities and Orders ; as of the Holy Virgin , of
th eHoly Crofs and others. Another perfon alfo executed
after the fame manner ; as foon as his Head fell to the
ground, while the Body was in the Chair, a man ran
fpeedily with a Pot in his hand, and filling it with the
Blood yet fpoutingout of his Neck, he prefently drank
it off, and ran away ; and this he did as a Remedy againft
the falling Sieknifs. I have read of fome who have ap-
proved the fame Med icine; and heard of others who have
done the like in Germany. And Celftu takes notice , that
in his time fome Epileptical perfons did drink the Blood
of the Gladiatours. But many Phyficians have, in all
times, abominated that Medicine. Nor did I ftay after-
wards fo long as to know the effefl thereof, as to the in-
tended cure. But moft men looked upon it as of great
uncertainty: and of all men the Jews, who fuffer no
Blood to come into their Lips3 muft moft diflike ie.

At Prefburg they have a ftrange way of Execution, ft i ll
ufed at Metz, and fome other places, by a Maid, or En-
gine like a Maid finely drefled up with her hands before
her. The Malefaflor falutes her firft, and then retireth„
But at his fecond falute flhe openeth her hands and cuts his
Mean in funded

(112)

Though the Winter was fharp , yet the advantage of
Stoves, and lying between two Feather-beds, made it
tolerable: For they ufe Stoves here as in other parts of
Germany, where they lodge and eat in Stoves $ and great
Perfons have Stoves in the Church, or fuch as look into
the Church. There are Stoves alfo in the publick
Schools where Leflures are read. And this way of ly-
ing between two Feather-beds , with a neat laced fheet
fpreadover, is more convenient in a cold Country, than
moft others they make ufe of. For in the common Inns in
Germany they generally fleep upon Straw, and alfo in
Hungary almoft every where \ and more Eafterly upon
the ground, fpreading a Carpet or Saddletcloath under
them : and more Northerly they content themfelves with
the Skins of Beads, Bears , Elks, or the like ; upon which
they deep in the night. Thofe that fleep lowed are cool eft
in a Stove ; thofe that lye upon Tables, Benches , or
higher, are moreexpofed to the heat. The Citizens of
Vienna are well attired , and ufe Furs very much. The
Women wear a high Velvet Bonner, lined or faced there-
with. The Place feemed to be healthful 3 but they fpeak
much of the Colica jiuJlriaca, as an Endemial and Local
Difeafe, very hardly yielding unto good Medicines. They
fpeak good German at the Court and in the City ; but the
Common and Country people feemed to fpeak grumb-
Jingly , and befides their accent, have divers words
different from other parts.

They have a Cuftome upon St. Nicholas-day to put fotue
fmall Gift into the Childrens fhoes ; among other things
they put in Medals and Dollars made of paper and flower
gilded and filvered over, yet fcarce worth a penny. They
fell Trochies or tablets in the Markets , made of the pul pe
of the Fruit of Hip-briar, made (harp with Spirit of SW-
fbur^exy refrefliing. Some carry about them a Thunder*

(”5)

Jlone, as a defence againft Thunder;and they rub their Chil-
drens Gums with a Wolfs tooth inftead of Cent,

When I was at Venice in the rime of the Carnival^ I oh-
ferved many Recreations and Shews , as Rope-dancing ,
flying down the Rope, cutting off Bulis-necks with
Swords, and many other. But at Vienna a notable trick
which I faw there pleated me much : A man of a middle
Stature laid down upon his back, and a heavy Anvil was
placed upon his Breaft, as much as two men could well
lift, then two other men with great Hammers laid on, un-
til they had given almoft an hundred biow$5and cut in' fun-
der a great Horfhoeof iron, about half an inch thick.

Here is no Cbriftian Religion publickiy permitted but
the Roman, and therefore thofeof the Protejlant and Re -
formed Religion are fain to refort unro Prefburg , Forty
miles off, for which they have feme convenience by the
Danube 3 and a Coach which goeth every day. In the time
of Maximilian the Second, they were permitted the Ex-
ercifeof their Religion in the Church of the Holy Crofs ,
in the City of Vienna . But afterwards were prohibited
by Rodolphus the Second. The Emperour Matthias gave
them permiflion to meet a tHernals, a little more than an
Engltfb mile from Vienna \ and gave leave to their Mini*
Jiers to come into the City, and there to chriften , marry ,
baptize , and vifit the fick* From which time they encrea-

fed very much, till Ferdinand the Second,re turning from
the Battel of Prague, banifhed their Minijler from Vi-
enna wd Arnols^ fent the Freyherr forger, to whom the
Caftle of Arnolds belonged , Prifoner unto Lintz ; and
never gave over till he had taken away their Priviledges
and Freedom of meeting publickiy in any part of lower
Auffria.

But here are no fmall number of Jews, who have a di-
ftinft Habitation afligned them over the Water- They have

alfo

(ll4)

alfo a Street allowed them in the City for the day time,
but they mufi: all depart at night beyond the River into
the Suburbs.

They are much diftafted by the Citizens and Trades-
men, and the Scholars agree but ill with them. While I
was at Vienna there was a quarrel between them to an
high degree* For the Scholars afiaulted the Jews Town,
bear, wounded, and threw divers of them into the Ri-
ver. Divers Scholars were wounded, feme killed, and
alfo feme Souldiers w ho were commanded out to coma
pofe the Fray : and the Jews Town was guarded many
days by the Souldiersof the City. This begot fuch ill
Blood and Complaints^ that a good number of the Jews
were to be banifhed ata certain day. The Jews, to in-
gratiate with the Emprefs, then with Child, prefented her
with a noble silver Cradle , but file would not receive its
And there was great danger of the general banifiimentof
them when I left that City , which w7as afterwards effe-
cted, they being feverely prohibited from living, not on-
ly at Vienna , but in any part of Jujlria , where there
were formerly whole Villages of them, fo as they were
forced to betake themfelves into the Dominions of the
Turk, unto Venice, into Poland and Bohemia . They be-
ing not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries of
Hungary fubjeft to the Emperour, Styria , or Carinthia.

I muftconfefs they feemed ufeful unto cheplacefor rea-
dy accommodation of any thing, either by fale or ex-
change, but the people looked with an evil eye upon
them, as taking away much of their Trade and Employ-
ment. They alfo looked upon them as ufelefs in w ar for
defence of the place ; and were not without fome jealou-
fie that they held correfpondence with the TW\^,and gave
Intelligence of their Affairs unto them. Yet the Souldiery
much with them , and Captains for the fuddain ha-
6 ” ° biting,

(”S)

biting, furnifliing, and accommodating of their Compa-
nies. And dining one day with a Commander at a Jews
Houfe , amongft other Difcourfe I asked the Jew con-
cerning the ten Iribes , and where they were f He faid
they were far off in Alia, beyond a great hake which was
continually ft or my, and fcarce faff able, but upon their Sab-
bath-day, upon which days the Jews do not willingly travel*
I have feen their Circumcifion at Rome, Padua, and o-
ther parts? Their Phyficians ordinarijy profefs great
skill in Urines ; and the common people refort unto them
rather than unto Chriftians , and are fo credulous , and
have fuch an opinion of them, that they might be made to
believe they have fame qld Receipts of King Solomon f
There are many Jews in Italy ^ yet they feem tome to
be in greater numbers in Germany . In Amfterdam they
are alfo grown very numerous* At Franckfurt they told

me there were feven thoufand of them, which feemed fcarce
credible. At Golfn they are in great numbers I at Ham-
burg no$ a few. But the greateft number furely is in
Prague,

Though they be permitted in many Countries, yet di-
vers ChriftUn Princes and States have affigned them fome
mark in their Habits , to difHnguifh them. In Avignon
their Hats are yellow . In Italy their Hats are covered o®
verwithl affate. foiGermany they wear Ruffs and Gowns
with great Gapes, In Holland I obferved no diftin&ion.
But the Jews there , moft of them having come out of
Portugal , there may be fome fufpicion of them from their
Complexion.

Laft'y, when I confider the old ftrength of Vienna^
CCnfifting in an old wall and a deep ditch , I cannot much
wonder that^J Matthias Corvimts , King of Hungary, took
this City. And 1 muft afcribe it 3 under God, unto the
Angular valour and refolution of the Defendants , that

Q^2 Solymm

(U6)

Solfmn the Magnificent, with two hundred thoufand men,
was not able to take it , and though he made large brea-
ches, could never enter it, but loft fome thoufands at an
Aflault, and departed at lad with the lofs of a great part
of his Army. But this place is now in a far better con-
dition, ftrongly fortified, and able to refift the greateft
Forces of Turky. The houjes are cleared from the wall ;
and yet for better fecurity, when I was there, Count
Soutbes advifed theEmperour to pull down part of the
Suburbs upon the other fide of the neareft branch of the
Danube , left the Turks mighttake advantage to play up-
on the two Bajlions on that fide.

It would be a fad lofs for Cbrijiendome if this place
were in the hands of the Turk $ and no man knows where
he would reft. If hefliould begin with this place , and
take it, the ftrong holds of Rab, Komar a, and Leopold-
Jjladt would want their fupport,and foon fall into his pof-
feflion ; and if he were Lord of ,/iujlria , a great part of
Germany would lye bare unto himrand probably it would
not be long before he vifited Italy, into which Country he
would then find other ways than by Raima nova.

/

A

V t

A

JOURNEY

F R O M'

VIENNA

1 N.

AUSTRIA

T O

A king a farewel of the Imperial City
of Vienna, 1 ordered my Jeurney for
Prague in Behetnia, which is ufually
fix days Journey by Goach imthe
Summer, and eight in the Winter. I
went over the great Bridge of Vien-
na , upon the large Stream of the
Danube , palling by the Chappel of
St. Bridgeta of an eight-fquare Figure. This Bridge is a

very.

(nS)

very great and maffy work, fupported by many high
Trees, and Timber % and hath between two and three thou-
fand Treeshid upon it crofs, or fide by fide, from one
fide of the Bridge to the other, for the pafTage over it, af-
ter the German manner of making Bridges ♦ At Ratifbqpe
there is a handfome Stone-bridge over the Danube , zfod
between chat place and Vienna , divers of Wood ; but from
Vienna to Belgrade I obferved none but what were made
with Boats.

Having palled the River , I entred into the TranJ-
Danubian Auftria , or that part of Aujlria which lierh
between the Danube and the River They a , and came unco
Corneuburgs a pretty Town, about which place the Em-
perour often hunteth ; it is near the Hill Bifneberg, w^hich
is oppofite unto Kalenberg* The Swdes advanced far

when they took this place in the laft wars, and held k fo
well, that they were not eafily forced out of it. From
thence I came to Stockerau , near the mouth of the River
Mida , whereit runneth into the Danube. A place much
noted for the death of St. Colman a Scotch Saint, highly
honoured in thefe gartsv From thence; to Gunterfdorff ,
foto Colne dor ff oelhldkffi whicialthbughit be on the
South of the Rivef2$y% is accointed the fifrft Village
of Moravia , and then came unto Znaim.

In all this part of Auftria, which extendeth a great
length on the North-fide of the Danube , conceived to
have been anciently inhabited by the Marcomanni and
^mdi, there are few or mftTmps of antiquity , large-
neft) or note } for the Romans made their Stations and
Colonies upon the South-fide of the Danube p but the
Country is full of Villages, and populous. One of the
chiefefi Towns is frembs, which fome call Cremona Au -
ftri#} chichi fa y? as I the Danube. A great

5 •' Pr\

C”9)

ed by she Swedes. The Soy l is light , and eafie to be
ploughed.

Zndm is a handfome place, with many painted Houfes
in if, and accounted the fourth chkflWn in Mah'rm^
or oravia\ Olmtitsb, Brntt} and lglm> being the other
three, famous for the death of the Emperour Sigtf-
mund . It isfeatedby the River Theya, which divideth

Moravia from Aujiria, and running at laft into the River
Mark^y affbrdeth accommodation of pafTage into the Da-
nube*

From thence we pafled by Ulvershyrkeny PanlitZy and
Moravia n Budweiffe to Zimmaw 3 and by Byrnitz came
to Igla , or \glau, upon the River Igla , which at laft run*
neth into the great River March , a very pleafant place,
feated upon a Hill, on the Frontiers of Bohemia* It is
well fortified a U modern*, upon one fide, and hath one
of the largeft Piazza's that I have feen-

Moravia , is a pleafant and fruitful Country affording
plenty of neceflaries for life; the people are plain^dealing,
flout, and make good Souldiers. It is cbmmodioufly
furnifhed with Rivers, the greateft whereof is the Mora
ox^Marck, which arifing in the Northern part thereof,
runneth quite through the Country, and entreth the Do-
novo not far from Prejburg . The other confiderable
Streams are the They* oxThaifa} the Svearta, the Schmtta^
which rbn into the Afarc^ In the laft Turkjfh wars the
Tartars having paflfed the Wag in Hungarian made incurfi*
ons into Moravia , and carried away fome thoufands of
the Inhabitants.

Leaving Igla, we fodn came into Bohemia, firft cotnibg
into stecketf, then to Teutchin hrodaby the River Sac*
zua, formerly a ftrdng place, taken by Zifia the famous
Bohemian General y who then forced the Emperour Sigifi
"mmd to fly put of Bohemia by the way of 'iglfa From
* ’nnrsn ' ~ " thence

(I20)

thence we came to Haberne , and fo to Jfanikaw : At this
place, upon the 24 tb of February , 1643. was fought that
memorable Battel between the Swedes , commanded by
Leonard Torjlenfon > and the Imperialifls under Count
Hatzfield, Goetz, and other Commanders. The Impefi-
alifts had the better at firft ; but fallingupon the Enemies
Baggage, and being too greedy of Booty, they were de-
feated, three thoufandflain, four tboufand taken prifon-
ners, with their Gen tx^Batzfield^ and fix or feven Colo-
nels. The fuccefs hereof gave the Swedes advantage to
proceed further , and into Silejia and Auftria. In this
Town meeting with a Gentleman who came from Schaclitz,
which is not far from the Rifgeburg , or Mountain of Gy -
ants , about the Head of the River Flbey I enquired of
him concerning the fpirit Ribenfal, which is faid to infeft
that Country, but he could fay nothing therein of his
own knowledge ; and though he was confident that there
was fuch a Spirit, yet he confeffed that for twelve years
it had done no hurr* In Hills, Mountains , and places
of Mines fuch reports are ordinary. It is reported that
a Spirit haunts the Silver Mines of Brunfwtck : And ano-
ther to be in the Finn Mine of Slackenwalde \v\ this Coun-
try of Bohemia , and to walk in the fhapeofa Monky who
ftrikes the eJ Miners , fings and plays on the Bag-pipes, and
doth many fuch Tricks* And AgricoUm the latter end of
his Sixth Book De re Metallica , gives this for one reafon
why Mines , or pajfages in Mines , are given over.

From Janikpwl travelled to Czajlaw , a good Town ,
and the chiefefl in th eCza/lawer Circle: In this place
they fay that Zifca was buried, that famous Bohemian Gr-
neral ; he loft oneEye&y an Arrow, m>d was at length
blind of both, yet gave not over the war, and proved
fuccefsful in it. He wifted his Friends to make a Drum

of his Ski#) which Ihould fcrvc to fright away their E-

nemies.

(fir)

nemies. And though he cared not for any Sepulchral
Monument, yet he had one in this place.

From Czijlm we came to Guttenberg, or Cottenberg ,
about eight Bohemian miles from Prague, every mile be-
ing five or fix Englijh miles. A large Town, and much
frequented, not far from the River Albis or Elbe, of e-
fpecal note for the Silver ^Mines about it.* The Hilts
near it are not high , and confequently the Mines are not
fodeepasthofeof Hungary, and fome others in Germa*
ny \ yet fome are above feventy or eighty Fathoms. They
have wrought at thefe Mines feven hundred years, and
there are about thirty of them. I went down into that
which was firft digged, but afterwards left for a long
time, but they work there now again , it is called the Got-
otAufder Gotten, upon the Gotten , or Coat- hill', and
as the Story goetb, a Monk walking over this Hill found
a kind of a Silver tree flicking to his Garment, which
was the occafion that they afterwards digged and built
thefe Mines, and the place retains the name of Gotten *
berg.

The Mine into which I defcended near the Town, is
but nineteen Fathoms deep; the chief Vein of the Ore
runneth South, and is about a foot in breadth : the Ore
holdeth or containeth in it Silver and Copper, fo that out
of an hundred pound weight of Ore , they ordinarily gee
an Ounce of Silver, and eigbr, nine, or ten ounces or more
of Copper , even to pounds, but it is not well known, for
the Gopper-mrks are the Emperours. The Undertakers
gee out what Silver they can, and afterwards fell the Ore
unto^the Emperours Officers 3 but fome Ore is forich as
to contain eight or nine ounces of Silver ♦ A blew Earth
which they meet with in digging, affords the befl hopes
of Ore. Two men lately periflied in this Mine , having
made a fire in it, being either choaked with the fraoak,or,

R as

(122)

as they thought, by the poyfonous exhalation? forced out
of the Minerals by the fire* I have read tha, Libujja the
Trinceis, and reputed Sorcerefs of Bohemia , foretold
many things concerning thefe Mines \ but certain it is ,
that for the advantage and profit thefe bring, the Town
hath fufFered much in many wars, TheEmperour Sigif
muni, made hade out of it upon the approach of Zifa, and
feeing he could not hold it, burnt the Town ; but it
was icon rebuilt and poflTefTed by Zifa , whole- party
called it the Purfe of dntkhrifl ,

Leaving Cotlenburg , I came to Colline and to Bohemi ~
anMroda, fo named to diftinguilh it from Dutch or Teu
tonick Broda before mentioned, a confiderable good Town,
and from thence came to Brag, or j Prague, the Capital
and Royal City of the Kingdom of Bohemia. The Walls
of this City feem to enclofe the greateft Circuit of ground
of any I have feen in Germany , but the Hills and void
fpaces within it take up a la^ge Trad: , and therein it is
like theCity of Lyon in Francefn is feated upon the River
Muldau , by the Bohemians named Ultaue, a large rapid
River, arifing in the South part of Bohemia , and before
it arri veth at Prague , receiveth the River Sarfua and the.
Watta into it \ and Northward of Prague the River Egrar
and joyneth with the Elbe .

This great place confifteth of three Towns, named the
0 id) the( New , and the Kleine Seine n, or leffer t own.
The qtiTtwnlieth upon the Eaft of the River Muldauy
is very populous, full of Buildings, private and pub-
lick. Very confiderable in this part is alfo the tlniverfi-
ty , wherein are great numbers of Students and Scholars,
there being but one Ilniverfity in Bohemia $ many perfons
alfo referring thither from ocher Countries. 1 1 is fcarce
credible what is reported of the number of Scholars in
Mragw .in former Ages* as hath been delivered by divers

Authors.

(*23)

Authors. And Lewis du xVT*y,Counfe!lor unto the Duke
of Wirtenburg, affirmed), That there are at prefent fcarce
fo many Students in all Germany 5 as there weieat Prague
in the year 1409. when they reckoned above Forty
thoufand under the Retlorjhip of John Hus. Charles the
Fourth, Emperour, and King of Bohemia , founded the
University of Prague , giving equal priviiedges to the
Bohemians,? olanders^ and Germans: and when he would re-
trench bis favours towardsStrangers, there went out of the
Town in a weeks time twenty four thoufand Scholars,and
a little after, fixteen thoufand, whereby we may judge
there were more Scholars i x\ Prague than other perfons
in fome great Cities. There are alfo in this old Town d
vers Colledgcs and Cloy tiers* The Jejuites have a fair,
hand fome near unto the Bridge , but the Build-

ings of the old Town are inferiour to tSiofe of the lejfcr
Town ♦

The new Town is large, and together with the River,
encompaffeth the old, and is divided from it by a large
Trench or Ditch , into which they can let in the River.The
Irijh haveaCloyfierof Francifcans near unto an old Tower
in the Wall of the old Town. The Jefuites have alfo be-
gun a large Cloyfter, which, if fin ifhed according to its
beginning and defign, will be very fpacious and noble*
They are now making Baflions about the Town at one end
thereof ; there is alfo a Citadel , but not finished, at Wijfe -
raht9 or Wiffegrade, formerly the Seat of the Princes of
Bohemia , and alfo of the famous Princefs Lfbuffa , the
Daughter of Crocus , and Wife unto Primiflam.

The Kleine Seitten, or leffer Prague , far exceedeth the
other for pleafantnefs and beauty of Buildings and fait
Palaces. This part lieth Weftward of the River Mul-
daw , which between this and the old Town , is paflTable by
a ft tong Stone-bridge, confifting of fixteen great Arches,

R 2 being

<'ff24)

being about Seventeen hundred foot long, and Thirty
five foot broad, and two open Gates under two high
Towers of Stone at each end* A great part of this
Town lieth high, and upon the Hill ftandeth Hratfchin ,
or Upper Prague , and a Summer Houfe of the Emperours,
befides a Magnificent Palace of the Emperours , as King
of Bohemia \ and by it a fair Cathedral Church dedicated
to St. Veit 5 firft built by Sr. Wencejlaus, Duke of Bohemia 3
923. from whence the Town and River is beft viewed*
In this Church are divers old Monuments for great Per-
form ; as for Pogiehrachius a Bohemian King, Wence flans ,
Rodolphm the Second 3 Charles the Fourth, Ladtjlaus ,
Maximilian the Second, and ocher Arch-Dukes and Em-
perours. There are alfo many Houfes of the Nobility in
this part of the Gity. The Palace and Garden of Colare*
do js exceeding neat, though final 1* But I was moft plea-
fed with the Palace of Count Wallenfteyn> Duke of Fried-
land , Genera! unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Second,
who beingfufpeftedto IHurp that Kingdom , was after-
wards killed at Fgra . This Palace was built upon the
Ruins of an hundred Houfes, purpofely plucked down
to make room for it 3 wherein the Hall is large, theGar-
den handfome 5 upon one fide whereof there is a place to
manage Horfes, and near unto it a Fifti-pond : in ano-
ther part there is a noble Aviary with a Garden and Trees
in it, after the manner of the Aviary of Prince Doria at
Genoa, which is eighty paces long, and eighteen broad.
The Stable is large, and worth the feeing* wherein there
is a Marble Pillar between each Horftyand for every
Horfe there is placed in a nich of the Wall a Rack of
Steel, and Manger of Marble, and over his Head hangeth
a Piftureof the Horfe, as bigas the Life, with bis Name
under it. Among the reft, l obferved that a Bay*horfe
tad for,: his Name Mmte ^Onr a Mare, Bella donna^ ano«

(r2§)

ither Ejpagnoletta, and his nioft beloved Horfe was nattied^
Mas J&uerido.

Some have thought that thebeft high German is (poker*
in this part of Prague ; and there living fo many of the
Nobility and great Perfons , it is not to be wood red at,
that their Language is better than ordinary. But the
common Language of Bohemia is a Dialeft of the ScUvonr-
an 5 though very many fpeakalfo High dutch , as we found
in ail our paffage through that Country. Koningfmark
being with his Forces on the Frontiers of Bohemia , a
difcontented Colonel of the Imperialijis came unto hii%
making it probable that he might furprize Hratfchm , and
the leffer fide of Prague , which he fuddainly attempted %
and fo fuccefifully, that he furprized many Officers, and
old Golaredo in his Bed, getting fo great a Booty, that he
could fcarce carry it away.

A part of Prague is inhabited by Jews, and called the
Jews Town ; there are no (mail number of them, and ma»
ny rich, as trading in all Commodities, and have good
skill in Jewels, and feveral forts of Stones digged out of
the Mines in Bohemia : I bought fome Bohemian Topazes'
of them, neatly cut and well-figured, and fon e which
were very large and clear , were at the rate of feven or
eight Dollars. During my flay here, I had a great defire
to have faluted Johannes Mantes Marci, a famous Phyfici-
an and Philofopher of Prague , and alfo to have induced
him to aCorrefpondence with the Royal Society ^ but I
underftood that be had left this World, to the great grief
of Learned Men in thefe and other parts*

Many here do fpeak ftill of John Hus and Jerome of
Prague, andl have feen Silver Medals of them. They were
Purely very notable men ; and I (hall only fet down what
zMneas Sylvius Pope Pius the Second Paid of them. Jo*
hmm &UU major & author Hate 9 doUtrM &fawndiafo~

(126)

prior Hieronymus, pertulerunt mho conjlantlanimo necem ,
&quajiad Fpuluminvitati ad wcendium proper arunt,nuU
lam emit tent es vccem quae miferi animipvjfct ferre indicium:
ubiardere ceperunt , hymnum cecinere qtttw vix fLmm a
&fragor ignis interciperepotuit, nemo Fhilc\oph or um tarn
forti ammo mortem pertulifte traditur quam ijh incendium ,
In Hijl . Bohemica, John was or greater years and autho-

rity, Jerome of more Eloquence and Learning: both of
them endured their Death with great conftancy, and went
unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet : when they
began to burn, they'fungan Hymn, which the flame and
fire could fcarce intercept. None of the old Philofophers
endured their death with fuch a courageous mind as thefe
the fire.

The fame Author compar ah Prague unto the City of
Florence in Tufcany , wherefore having feen both places,
I cannot omit to fay fomething. I had a view of the Ci-
ty of Florence from the cop of the Domo, or Cathedral ,
and of Prague from the Church of St. Veit, upon the Hill
inthelefferTown: Prague feemed to my eye to contain
a far greater Circuit than Florence 3 it feemed alfo more
populous, and to exceed ic very much in the number of
People, the Streets larger, and the Windows of Palaces
and fair Houfes being of Glafs^ looked not fo tatterdly
as the ragged Paper Windows of Florence ♦ The River
jtrno , which runs through Florence «, is not to be compa-
red with the Muldau at Prague, having run about an hun-
dred miles from its Head. The large, maflfy , long Stone-
Bridge exceedeth any of, if not all, the four Bridges of Flo-
rence. The Emperours Palace alfo upon the Hill is very
ftately : But a$ for the well-paved Streets of Florence ,
the Dome or Cathedral with black and white Marble, with
a Cupola , fecond only to that of St. Peters of Rome , for
the incomparable Chappel of St* Laurence, and^the Dufas

Gallery

O12?)

Gallery and Rarities , I mu ft coufefs I fa w not any thing i n
Prague which anfwered them. At Wtijfenberg > or the
white Bilinear Prague, that deciding Battel was fo'Ggfrt
Novemb . 8. 1620. between Frederick Prince Palatine of
th eRhine, defied Kingof Bohemia, and the Forces of
the Emptrour Ferdinand the Second, which gave fjcha
deep*biow unto the Pr olefiant Party , wherein fo many of
Frederick’s Forces were flairs and drowned in the River
in their flight, wherein alfo that famous Commander Pa*
penheim was found lying among the dead , who notwith-
ftanding died not of his wounds , but was referved to
end his days with the King of Sweden in the memorable
Battel of Lutzen.

From Prague I defigned to pafs by water down the
Muldaw, which uniteth with the Elbe about Melrnk , and
fo down the Elbe unto Hamburg. But the Winter advan»
cing, and the Weather proving cold , the Boats did not
go as in Summer , and therefore I took my Journey by
Land, and leaving Prague and the Muldau on the right
hand, 1 pafTed the firft day to Zagethal , the next to We-
luerne , and fo to Budin and Lahajitz upon the Elbe . Ha-
ving pafTed over the Egra , a confiderable River , arifing
not far from the City of Egra , and at faft running into
the Elbe ; thenext day by the Caftle of Kriegfiein , or
Warreftone , feated upon a high fteep Rock, I came to
jiufig, a fmall City not far from the Elbe , having little
remarkable in it* likemany other fmall Cities of Bohemia ,
and fo forward to Nolndorff, where we lodged upon
Mount Kninfberg, the day after we entred into Mifnia 9
pafTing by Peter fwaid, and Hellendorff che firft Village in
Mifnia, and Kifibel where are Iron Mines about eigh-
teen Fathoms deep, and iron works .

We now understood that Bohemia was a larger Country
than weexpefted • it lieth round, and fome fay it is three

day!

(128)

days portage over 5 others that the Diameter extendeth
two hundred miles. From Igla upon the Confines unto
Hellendorff, it took me nine days Journey in November
by Coach, not reckoning the time I ftaid at Prague. In
many places there are very ill Paflages, and fo rudely
mended with great Trees, laid fide by fide, that they are
often very troublefome to pafs.

We travelled afterwards towards Drefden, in a fruitful
Country, wherein were many Deer in moft parts of the
way, in fight of the Caftle of PUnitz , a ftrong place , and
feated high. I could not but cart an eye on the Rocks
behind us in the Foreftof Bohemia , which looked like
the Ruines of a Wall which formerly enclofed Bohemia ,
which Country is defcribed with a Foreft or Woods
round about it. But I confefs I did not really perceive
that there was fuch a Wood round about it as is common-
ly fet forth in Mapps$ only both within, andalfoinmany
parts of the Borders, there are great Woods which are
conceived to have been part of the Hercinian Forejl.

The Bohemians are a ftrong, flout, and hardy People ,
make good Souldiers, and have made great wars both at
home and abroad ; and Hifiories are full of their warlike
Exploits, The chief Magazine of the King is at Egra ,
a ftrong City, accounted the Second of Bohemia. The
Country affordeth alio lufty and ftrong Horfes. The
common fort of People ar£ boy fterous, rough, and quarrel-
fome, efpecially in drink , whereto they are too much
addi&ed. The Nobility jind Gentry are civil and kind
anto Strangers. There are many great Families of the
Nobility, among which that of Rofenberg and Pofel is an-
cient, and of high efteem. Since the unhappy accepting
of the Crown by Frederick Count Palatine , and the ill
fuccefs upon it, there hath been a great alteration in thi*
Country, both as to People and their Manners » for there-
upon

<I29)

upon many thdufandslefc the Kingdom, and many who re-
mained* turned their Religion. And the Emperours have
ufed the like feverity upon others in their Hereditary
Dominions*

The next confiderable place we came unto was Dref-
denin Mifnia, as well worth the feeing, as almoit any
Town in Germany. Drefden is the Seat and Relidence of
the Elector of Saxony , feated upon the River Elbe, over
which there is a very noble Stone-bridge of Seventeen
Arches. The City is very well fortified after the Mo-
dernway, the Baflions Revenues 9 and in each Bajlion a
Cavallier : It hath alfo a large Trench or Ditch about it ,
infome places double $ and the River Elbe addeth unto
itsftrength. The Walls are very ftrong: and they fay,
that when the firft Stone was laid to build them, there was
placed in the Earth a Silver Cup gilded, a Book of the
Laws, and anocherof Coy ns, and three G Ioffes filled with
Wine. It hath alfo three Gates. The places moft worth
the feeing are thefe : The Italian Garden in theSuburbs ;
the Hunters Houfe in the old Town beyond the River ;
the EleUors Palace ; his Houfe for wild Beajis ; his Stable*
houfe and Jrfenal , of which I (hall fet down fome things
obfervable in their kind. In the Electors Palace, the Hall
is very large, and handfomely painted with Cities, Gy-
ants, and the Habits of feveral Nations, and fet out with
feven large branched Candlefticks : But that which af-
fordeeh the greateft delight is his Kunflkammcr , Art-
Chamber, or Colle&ion of Rarities, both of Art and Na-
ture. In the firft Partition are to be leeo all manner of
well-made Injlruments belonging to moft Trades , as
Joyners, Turners, Barbers , Smiths , Chirurgeons , ando-
ther Artificers \ lnjlruments to force open Doors, Chejls ,
&c. In the other Chambers thefe and the like are obfer-
vable.

S

A

030)

A Tube-glsfs four Ells long. A large blew Turkifh-glajs.
Variety of Cor aland artificial Works of it. Fowls made
out of Mother of Pearl. Drinking Cups in the fliape of
Dragons , Elephants , &c. Cafiles of Gold and Mother of
PearL Many Fowls and Cups made out of Nautili , and
other Shells, and out of Oeftricheggs. A fine Oefirich
made out of its Egg7 with the Feathers of Gold. A Cup
made out of the Ball taken out of an Ones Stomach y\ch\y
fet, about a foot long* A Stone as big as my fift , like a
Bezoarfione, taken out of a Horje. A Purfe made out
of the Linum Incombufiibile. Silver Ore from the Mines
of Freiberg^ almoft pure, in firings and {boots. A Natural
Crofs of Silver Ore. One hundred and twenty one Heads
carved on the outfide of a Cherry- fione . A Religious Man
or Frier of Japan carved in Box. A Chryftal Cabinet r
fold by Oliver Cromwell , wherein is kept a Ring which
hah Stones in it in the fliape of a Cafile . His Majefty King
Charles the Second on Horsback, carved out of Iron. A
Head of King Charles the Fir A. A Glafs Organ,Topazes
unpoliflied, ten inches in Diameter. A Gap out of a 2V
paze. Emeralds an inch in Diameter , as they grow in the
Rock, refemblingthe Vitriolum Nativnm, as I faw it in
Paradife hillhy Schemnit% in Hungary ♦ Stones named
thunder fiones, fmeliingof Fire. Rocks made out of all
forts of Ore, and the names of the places written upon
shem from whence they were digged,,

The Figures of Fijhes in Stones out of Mansfield \ the
Stones are dark-coloured , but the Fijhes of a Gold or
Copper colour. All forts of Stones winch are to be
found about Saxony and Mifnia poliflied* Two large
pieces of pure Virgin Gold out of the sjtfine. A Cabinet
©fall forts of Apothecaries Infiruments and chief Druggs.
& Han with a Cabinet made in his fide, containing all Me-
dicines taken from a Harft A white Hart as big as the

Ufa

f»3.0

Life, made out of the fbwwgs and filings of Hsrts berm
and looking like PUifier. Figures plinted in trees. A
Spur in part of a Tree. Horns in Trees .

A Chamber of all manner of Mathematical Injlruments
and Charts ♦ A good Library of Mathematical Booly* An
Unicorns-horn , which they will have to be of a Land ti-
nker n, being neither wreathed nor hollow, A Dart of
Umcorns-horn . Among the Pictures in the fame Cham-
bers thefefeemed remarkdble: A Picture by Colter ^ of
the Siege of Jerufalew, with great number of Figures y
and highly efteemed. Four Heads of the Elements made
out of the Creatures which belong to them in Caricatura .
A painting of Merchants Letters ftuck behind green Tape*
A Storm by Rubens . Two Nuns by Lucas van Leyden*
A Picture of Dr. Luther in the Cloyfler , in his Gown y and
after his Death. There is alfo great variety of excellent
Clockwork > and an attempt for a perpetual motion by a
rowling bullet . A Cuckow fingeth by Clockwork , a Horf
man rideth, a faileth, an old Woman walkeib, a Cen«
taur runneth and fhooteth, aCr*£creepeth upon a Table
fo well as to amaze and delight 5 but among ail, the Crab
feems to be moft naturally imitated.

In the stable*bou[e , befides the extraordinary noble
Stable of Horfes, wherein every Horfe eats out of a Rack
of Iron , and Manger of Copper ; and on a jPi//^r by him
his C^, Bridle and Saddle , and other Nece{Taries,hang;
befides a handfome Window with a Curtain before him*
There are obfervable a very fair Fountain and pond fet a-
bout with handfome Ballifters, where the Horfes are wa-
tered. A long walk arched and painted with Horfes * over
which is a Gallery with the Pictures of all the Dukes and
Electors of Saxony , both in their Military and Electoral
Habits. Two Beds of Marble . Drinking Cups which
feem not great, yet fo contrived as to hold divers quarts.

$2 A

03?)

A Spring which caufeth a Horfemm in Silver to come ri-
ding in, bringing a Cup of Wine in his band. A pair of
noble Pijlols with ail the Stories of the New and Old Te-
Jlament upon them. AGlafs Gun4 A Gun which Ihoots
off Forty times without charging again. A Piece which
fheweth the manner of the firft invention of Jlriktng Fire
in Guns* A Lock without a coc\*

A Chamber of rich sleds for Hcrfes , made ufe of in
Jollity and pompous Courfes upon the Snow* A white
Bears skin fluffed. Tigers and Lyons "Skins* A Caffowares
Skin. Good jitmur for Men and Horfes . Many forts

of Indian &leny, Vuntans , and other forts. A Picture
of Laplanders and their Cufioms. A Lapland Drum with
Figures to conjure by. A Chamber of all Hunting Arms
and Neceffaries'

The Armamentarium* Armory or Arfenal, is a long,fquare
Building, w herein are about Four hundred hr a/s Pieces
o f Ordinance, great number of Muskets and Armour in
the. upper Room* Silver Coats of Male. Pieces of Ordi-

nance to be charged behind. Retorts and Alemhicks in
the fibap- of Granados. The Steeple of the chief Church
was lately burnt by Lightning* and; the Canon melted
which were upon it.

In the Hunting-houfe , in the old Town, are fifteen Bears
very well provided for and looked unto. They have
Fountains and Pends to wafli themfelves in, wherein they
much delight : And near to the Pond are high ragged Pojls
or Trees fee up for the Bears to climb up, and Scaffolds
made at the top to fun and dry themfelves ; where they
will alfoiJeep,andcomeandgoas the Keeper calls them.
The Horn Gallery is alfo remarkable in this place, out of
which there are three Chambers ; one painted with fede-
ral forts of Hunting ; another with all forts of Fowl ; aud
aihirjd with greatyariety o fBeaJls,

•n<> J

(*33)

In the Hcufe for wild Beads I took notice of a I/Ufi'iH,
which is a four-footed Bead, that hangeth upon Trees by
the Tail. Alfo a mid or Mountain-Cat of a large fize. Five
young Bears. Five old black Bears. A white Bear very
large ; the feety he head, and the nec^xe longer than thofe
of th z black, but not fo thick. Two Lyons. TcnLuekfer,
very fine Beajlsr in bignefs , colour , and foape between a Tiger
and a wild Cat '$ the tips of their Ears and Tails are blac%,
their Eyes lively, their Skin Lyon coloared, and (potted,
efpecialiy about their Eyes . /

The Italian Garden and Summer-houfe in the Suburbs
is very noble, wherein are two Obelisks , two gallant
Fountains , a Theatre and good LandskipS ; This Garden
and Summer*}) oh je were built by two of the Prince Ele-
flours Eunuchs , and afterwards fold unto the Prince for
Six and twenty thoufand Dollars.

Drefaen is but a late City, and was formerly a Village,
The Cburfurjt , or Eleftcr, wasnot in the Town • but the
Chur-prince his Son was there; A Perfon rather of low
than middle Stature, his Hair long and yellow, his Face
ruddy, his Body well fet and a£Hve, and he is very well
beloved. The prefent Eleftor of Saxony is John George
the Second, Grand Marfhal of the Empire , a gre t and
powerful Prince,who keeps a Royal Court and Attendance,
having his Guards and Officers after the manner of Kings .
His Dominions lye in Mifnia , Thuringia, Vopland, and
part of Lufatia. His Revenues are large, from Impoful-
ons upon Commodities ; His Profits great, from the Tax
upon Beer, which arifeth to no fmallfum, efpecialiy in
Wittenberg , Torga, and Leipfick. And his Silver Mines
are confiderable. And the Funeral of the laft Eleflour
Joannes Georgius the Firft, was very magnificent 1657.
at which there were twenty four FJorfes of State covered
with blacky and the Electoral Efcntcbeon embroydered

there-

034)

thereon, and every one led by two Gentlemen, and three
thoufand five hundred perfons in mourning.

T)r ^Luthers Holiday was kept when l was there. The
chief Church is very fair : They preach ever y morning
at fevena Clock. Th z Lutheran women mourn in white,
as others do in Black : and the woman of the Houfedoth
ordinarily fay Grace inftead of the man. The beft High-
dutch is fpoken in this place , and other parts of Mifnia,
which is a very pleafant fruitful Country, and full of good
Towns and Villages.

Leaving this noble place, I took not the neareft Road,
but turned out of the way unto Freiberg , a place noted
for Silver t Mines • whereof I had read fomething in jt-
gricoU , and heard very much in thefe parts. About an
Englijh mile or two from Freiberg , there are many remar-
kable Mines. 1 took notice of three of them: One called
Jujf den hohen berg, or upon the high Hill , which is the
deepeft in thefe parts, as being (eventy feven of their
Fathoms deep i each of their Fathoms contains twelve of
their Ells, and three of their Ells makes one of our Fa-
thoms. So that thedepth of this C Mine exceedeth any
of thofe wherein I was in Hungary ♦ There is another
Mine called Himmelfurjl, or the Prince of where*

in not long fince there was Ore found fo rich, as in an
hundred pounds weight to contain an hundred and thirty
Marks of Silver, orfixty five pounds in the hundred,
but there was not much of it : And where the Veyns are
richeft, they areobferved to be thineft, about two fin-
gers broad $ but the ordinary Ore is but poor, holding
an ounce, or an ounce and a half, in an hundred pounds
weight ; and if it holdeth but half an ounce they workit.
Nor is this much to be wondered at , for in the vaft rich
Mines of Peru and Chili , they will work the Silver Ore
which containeth four or five ounces in a hundred pound

weight,

(135)

weight, and tenor twelve ounces is the ordinary rate of
the common Ore of that rich Mountain of j Potoji, out of
which Hill alone, if we believe A there Alonfo Barba, Cu-
rate of the Panlh of Sc. Bernard in that City, there hath
been more Silver taken than would cover all ^Mifnia o-
ver and over: For thus he faith, Potofi hath already
yielded between four and jive hundred %J[liUicns of fieces of
Eight . A quantity fufficient to make fuch another Hill
of Silver : It is hard to form a conception equal unto fo
exorbitant a heap of Riches ; but the better to help our
imagination herein, know,thatif the Ground were cove-
red with fo many pieces of Eight , laid as clofe to one
another as is poffible,they would take up the fpace offix-
ty Leagues fquare.

Here at Freiberg they have many ways to open the Ore
whereby it may be melted ; as by Lead and a fort of sil-
ver Ore which holds Lead in it* They have alfo Sulphur
Ore found here, which after it is burned^doth help much
towards the fufion of Metals: Andbefides thefe, Slick ,
or pounded and wafhed Ore \ and Slacken, which is the
Drofs or Cake5 or Skum taken out of the Vortiegel , or
Pan which received) the melted Minerals let out at the
bottom of the melting Furnace. Their Treibjhearth , or
driving Furnace , where the Litharge is driven off, agreed)
better with the Figure of it in Agricola , than thofe of
Hungary } fomeof the Litharge is green : Their Buck -
mrk and their Engines which pound the Ore , the Coal 9
and Clay , are alfo very neat. Much of their Ore is
wafhed, efpecially the pooreft, and that which is mixed
with Jlones , quarts, or fjarrs.

This is peculiar in their working, that they burn the
pounded and wafhed Ore in the Roajlhearth , before they
anelc it in the &mU*wy€n> or melting Furnace*

kt

036)

At thefe Mines of Hungary where I was, they ufed not
the Virgula dtvina, or forked Hazel , to find out Silver
Ore , or hidden Treafure in the Earth ; and I fliould little
depend thereon : but here they have an efteem of if. And
I obferved rbe ufe thereof, and the manner how they did
it. Butjfhall omit the Defcriptionof it , becaufeitis
fet down in divers Books, and it cannot be fo well de-
fcribed as ftown to the Eye.

I faw alfo another offline, called jfuff der Halfbrucker,
about eighty of our Fathoms deep, and much worked:
They have divers forts of Orel but they contain either
Silver and Copper, Silver and Lead , or all three 5 but
they work them only for silver . They have divers damps
in thefe Clines, where it is deep. The Mines are cold
where the outward Air comes in ; but where not t warm.
The greateft trouble they have is by dofr, which fpoileth
their Lungs and Stomachs , and frets their Skins. But
they are not fo much troubled with water ; and have ve-
ry good Engins to draw the water out.

The Sulphur , or Brimjlone Ore which is found here, is
alfo rich; it is hard and ftony, as other Ores are: that
which hath red Jpots is accounted the heft. They ufe a
peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimjlone from the Ore ;
fome whereof y ieldeth three pounds of Sulphur out of sb
hundred weight of Ore, which as it melteth runneth out
of the Furnace into water , or the Exhalations from tfee
Ore near or in the Fire, are condenfed into Brimjlone by
the Surface of the Water placed to receive it; this is once
again melted and purified. Some of the Brimjlone Ore
eontaineth Silver, fome Copper , and fome both in a fniall
proportion.

After the Sulphur is melted from the ©re, the remain-
der ferveth for two ufes ; that is, either for the melting of
Silver ) or for the making of Vitriol : To the former only

thus ;

(137)

thus; A proportion is caft into the melting Furnace of
the Silver , to this end, to ufe the Miners expreffion, to
make the Silver which is hard, fluid.

The other ufe, and which is more confiderable, is for
the making of Vitriol, or Copperofe in this manner ; They
take th eOre out of which the Brimjlone hath been already
melted, and burn it once again, or let it ftill burn in the
open Am; then putting it into a large Fate, they poor
water upon it, foas to imbibe and drink in the Vitriol ;
this Water is afrerwards boyled to a fufficient height, and
let out into the Coolers, where flicks are fet in it , as in
the making of Sugar Candy: The pure ft Chryftallized
Vitriol flicks unto the wood, the reft to the fides and bot-
tom. Thus the Sulphur Ore , after the Sulphur is taken out
of it, ftill worketh upon the Silver Ore , and openeth
the Body of it in the Fire ; but when tjiis Ore is alfo de*
prived of its Vitriol, it worketh no more upon Me~
tals.

Friberg is a round well-walled City 5 hath handfome
Streets, a Piazza, the Ele&or’s Caftle , and five Gates,
the Church of S t* Peter is fair, where many of the Dukes
and Ducal Family have been buried, and have fair Monu-
ments ; efpecially Duke Mauritius, Eleftor of Saxony ,
whofe Monument in black Marble is raifed three piles high,
adorned with many fair Statuas in Alabafler and white
Marble, and efteemed one of thenobleft, if not the beft,
in Germany. And when this Town was furrendred unto
Hoick and GaUai , OUob . 5. 1632. the Duke of Saxony
paid 80000 Dollars to fave the Monuments of his Prede-
ceffours from being ranfacked and defaced, it being the
fafhionof divers German Princes to be buried in their
Robes, with their Enfigns of Honour ^ Rings, Jewels, and
the like, which would have been booty, and probably
have run the fame fortune as the Cloijler of Haibron, within

T twelve

(r5S)

twelve Englijh miles of Nuremberg, where fome of the
Marquifles of Onfpach, who areof the Electoral Houfeof
Brandenburg 5 lye entombed, whete Tikje's 5ou!diers
brake open the Vaults and robbed the dead Corpfes of the
MarquiflTes, George Frederick, and Joachim Emeflsof the
Jewels .Rings^ud other rich Ornaments with which they
were entombed .

There are fome Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in
the City, by which there are paffages into the Mines.
This p’ace was formerly f reightly befieged by the Em-
perour jidolphm, for the fpace of a year and a month,
and at faft betrayed by a Fugitive, who let in a party of
the Emperours into the Town by a Subterraneous Paf-
fage near St. Donats Gate, and upon the continual Batte-
ries made at the Town, and concuffion of the Earth a*
bout it, the Earth funk down in many places, and fwal-
iowed great numbers of the Emperours Army.

Thefe Mines afford great benefit unto the City , and
alfo unto the Eleftor $ They are faid to have been found
out in the yearn So. But there have been other Silver
Mines difcovered fince ; as at Scbneeberg, at Anneberg,
and at Joachims Dale , 1526.

Having paffed fome time at Friberg , I ordered my
journey for Leipjic and travelling by Waltheim and Col-
dick, came unto it-

Leipjtck is feated upon the River Eljler , which arifing
in Voytland, or Terra Advocatorum , paffeth by it, and
afterwards runneth into the River Sala # It is a rich
and great trading City ; hath three Marts in the year 9
and great refort unto it from many parts : It is well-built,
and divers Houfes are (even ftories high. The Cajlle is
ftriftly guarded, and hath in it a ftrong white Town: But
£be Works about the Town are not very confiderable* al-
though they might be made ftrong.

The.

(139?

The Church of St. Nichole is well adorned, and hath
the name to be the faireft within fide of any Lutheran
Church in Germany ; they have alfo a remarkable Burial -
place or Godtfafyr, walled about , and cloyftered near
the Wall, wherein the better fort are buried , as the reft
in the middle and open part. Which put me in mind of
that noble Burial-place which I faw at Pifa in Lufiany ,
called // campo Santo, becaufe the Earth which the Em-
perour Frederick Barbarcjfa brought from the Holy Land,
for the Ballad of his Ships, was laid upon that Ground.

Leipfick^ is famous for two great Battels fought near
unto it in the laft Swedi/h wars ; one between Gujiavm
Adolphut , King of Sweden , and Count Lilly , General of
the Imperialist, 1631 . wherein the Swedes obtained a
great Viflory. Lilly was wounded, fled, and lived not
longafter. Another fome years after in the fame place,'
wherein Leonard Lorjlenfon the Swede , overcame Arch-
duke Leopoldm Cmlieimm, and Octavio Ficcolomini 3 Gene-
rals of the Imperial Army . And about a mile and a half

from hence, at Lutzen, another great Battel was fought,
1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Ar»
myy commanded by Albert Wallenlleyn Duke of trie Aland 9
wherein th z Swedes obtained the Vi&ory, but the King of
Sweden was flain ; and on the Imperial fide that famous
Commander , Godfrey Count of Pappenheim ♦

There is alfo an Univerjityat Leipjick, firft occafioned
by the German Scholars of Frague , who in the troubles
of the Huffites came hither, to the number of Two thorn*
fand in one day ; and is dill one of the Lhree Univerfities
in the Ele&or’s Dominions 3 the other being Jena by the
River SaUr and Wittenberg upon the Elbe . In this Uni-
verfity they are much addifted to the ftudy oftheL<m?,but
there are alfo Learned men in other Faculties,

T 2 The

(3 40)

The Magi/lrates of Leipflck are a!fo confiderable. Der
herrvon Adlerfhelme was the Burgomafler , a courteous
Learned Perfoii , and great Virtuofo , who had collected
and obferved many things: He hath had five fair Daugh-
ters brought up mail commendable ways of working,
Drawing, Paintings Inlaying with Flowers, with Mother
of Pearly Stones , and other pretty Works. And they
fpeak divers Languages, which they learned at a School
in Holland : So that his Houfe hath a great deal of excel-
lent Furniture of his Childrens work , and is one of the
nioft confiderable Curiofities to be feen in Leipflck^ His
Summer-boufe ishandfome, painted both within and with*
out : And in the Water about, are Mufcovy Ducks, Indian
Geefe , and divers rare Fowls. In his Chamber of Rari-
ties there are many things confiderable But I have feen
divers of them in ether places, and lately fet down
fome Varieties of the Elector of Saxony, I fhall mention
but a few.

An Elephants Head with the dentes molar es in it. An
Animal like an Armadillo , but the Scales are much larger,
and the Tail broader. YTery large flying Fifhes. A Sea -
horfe . Bread of Mount Libanus* A Cedar-branch with

the Fruit upon if* Large Granates as they grow in the
A Sirens hand. A Chameleon made out of a Fijh.
A piece of Iron , which feemeth to be the bead of a Spear >
found in the Tooth of an Elephant^ the Tooth being grown
about it. The ifle of Jerfey drawn by our King. A piece
of Wood with fhe Blood of King Charles the Firft upon it.
A Greenland Lance with a large Bell at the end of it. Much
Japan painting, wherein rheir manner of hunting ar)d work*
ing may be obferved. A Picture of our Saviour , the
Hatches of which are writing, or written, and contain the
ftory of his PaJJion . Severs taken in the River Elbe . A
Fill me of themurthcr of the Innocents } done by Albert

Durer .

040

Durer . Pictures of divers flrange Fowls. A Greenland
Boat* The Skins of white Bears , Figres, Wolves , and
other Beafts. And I mull not omit the Garter of an Eng^
lift) Bride , with the ftory of it ; of the Fafhion in England
for the Bridemen to rake it off, and wear it in their Hat,
which feemed fo ftrangeto the Germans , that i was obli-
ged to confirm it to them, by adoring them that I had di-
vers times wore fuch a Garter my felf.

Leaving this bufie and trading City of Leipftck, , I efi-
refted my Journey unto Magdeburg^ and travelled through
a plain Country, between the River Sala and the Elbe, by
Landfberg , nigh to Peterfdorjft where there is a fmall Bill
which overlooks all the Country, fo to Klhten , the Refi»
denceof the Prince of Anhalt 5 then to Cain , and over the
River before it runneth into the £/£<?, which arifing
at Mount Fichtelberg , now haftneth towards it* Fich-
telberg is a confiderable Mountain, near which are divers
Mines , Bathes , and Mineral waters , of which Ga(]?ar
Brufchit&s hath written a Defcription. And from it arife
four Rivers, running to the four quarters of the World.
The Maine or Mccnus, towards the Weft^ the Nab or
Ndbmy towards the South ; thee^g^r towards the Eaff$
and the forementioned Sala towards the North, Thefe
four afterwards fall into the three greateft Pavers of Ger-
many, the Danube , the Rhine , and the Elbe . Then to Sals
or Saltz, a placed noted for Sak-fprings , and that night
to Magdeburg .

Parthenopolu , or Magdeburg , is feared by the River
£/£*, formerly the Metropolitan City of Germany , now
under the Marquifs of Brandenburg , of very great Circuity
but little more than half built again, fince it was facked
and burnt by Filly, and Thirty fix thoufand perfbns put
to the Sword and deftroyed. I could not but obferve
the ruinous and deftru&ive efFefls of the late wars in many

parti

042)

parts of Germany, but not in any fo great and flourish-
ing a place as this : And a man might think*, chat after this
great deftruftionof Houfes and PeopIe,this place Should
not be able to ftand a Siege • yet a few years after it was
befieged by General Hatzfield, unto whom (Bannienhc
Swede not being able to relieve it) it was yielded. The
Cathedral Church is very fair , and built like an Englijh
one, by the Emperour the Firft , and his Emprefs
Editha, an Englijh woman, Daughter unto King Edmundy
wbofe Effigies inStonelfaw in the Church, with nine-
teen Tuns of Geld by her which She gave thereto. And
to fay the truth, Englijh mony hath done great things in
Germany , for hereby, or with a good part thereof, this
Church was built or endowed. Leopold Duke of Au-
Jiria , builc the old Walls of Vienna with the ranfome of
King Richard the Firft, whom he detained in his return
through jiufiria from the Holy Land . King Edward the
Firft fenc a great Sum of Mony unto the Emperour Adol~
phnSy for the railing of Souldiers in Germany, which the
Emperour employed in purchafmg a great part of Mifnia
for himfelf.

The Lutheran Churches are handfome, and their Pul-
pits are extraordinary noble, and richly fee off, as I ob-
served , through all Saxony 3 JSforimberg. And where
they are Mafters of the Places, and have not their Chur-
ches only by permifllon ; here they Shewed me in the
Cathedral Church of Sr. Maurice , the Statuas of the five
wife Virgins fouling, and of the fivefoolijh Virgins lament-
ing, which are very well exprefTed ; They Shewed me al-
fo two odd Reliques5 which they ftill kept as Rarities j
that is, the Bafon wherein EiUte waShed his hands, when
he declared himfelf free from the blood of our Saviour $
and the Ladder whereon the Cock flood when he crowed
after St, Reter’s denying of Chrift.

In

(H3)

In the R nines of the Cloijler of the ^ ugujlines , there
is (till to be feen Luthers Chamber, bis Bedfiead, and
Table, and upon the Door are thefe G**7w<wfrVerfes*

Die war Lu tberi Kammerlin ,

Venn er ins Clofler kam her in,

Gedachm halb wird noch itzund
Beringefehen fein Bcttefpynd ,

i> e.

Luther did lodge within this little Room,

When firlthrdid into the Cloifter come j
In memory whereof we fill do keep
The Bedfiead upon which he us3d to fleep3

I lodged at ^Magdeburg, in an old man’s Houfe, who
would tell me many ftories of the burning of the Town, the
truelties and bloody ufage of the people, who were defray-
ed without exception : The Nuns, many of them being
drowned in the River Elbe. After which fome obferved
thatCountT//// never profpered in his wars. He told
me alfo that Dnrew lodged with him, who was employed
by KmgCharles the Firft, to endeavour a reconciliation
between the Lutherans and Cahinijls in Germany , and
to unite them if poflible. We were now in the Territory
of the Eleftor of Brandenburg , Fridericm Wilhelmm ,
Great Chamberlain of the Empire, w ho is in effeft pof-
fefled of Magdeburg , and next unto the Aujlrian Family,
is the moft potent Prince in Germany , beingable toraife
great jirmies, and his Dominions fo large, that they are
reckoned to extend two hundred German miles in length,
from the further part of PruffiamtoCleve, but they lay
not together, but inrerfperfed with many other Princes

Countries s

(144)

Countries : Howfoever, a Horfe-man may fo order his
Journey r. as to lye every night in one of the Eleftour’s
Towns, in travelling from one end of his Territories to
another.

I had now left the German Language behind me3
for at Magdeburg comes in another kind of Gmw^called
FUt-Deutch , Broad-Dutch , Niderfachftfche ,or the Lan-
guage of lower Saxony^ a great Language , fpoken in the
North part of Germany : They fpeak it at Hamburg ,
Lubeck , and many great Cities: But they can converfe
with the other High-dutch , and with fome difficulty aTo
with the Netherlander s\t he one fpeakingin hi s Language,
and the other replying in his.

At this City of Magdeburg was performed the firft
'Turnament that was in Germany , w hich was opened in the
year 635. by the Emperour Henry, Surnamed the Fow-
ler, who coming from the war of Hungary , exceedingly
fadsfied with the Nobility , would oblige them to exercife
themfelvesin handling their Arms, and managing their
Horfes , and therefore infticuted thefe Sports, whereby the
Nobility was powerfully attracted to Valour and Gallan-
try, and induced toperfeft and accomplifh themfelves in
all kind of Cbev&lry. No new Nobility ^ noBaftard 3 no
Uforper , none guilty of High Treafon , no Opprejfor of
Widows and Orphans, none born of Parents whereof one
was of bafe Extraction and Ignoble , no Heretique 5 Mur-
derer, Traytor, no Coward that had run away from the
Battel , nor indiftreet Ferfon that had given offence to La-
dies by word or deed, were admitted to this Honour, nor
above One of the fame Family at a time. Princes came
into the Lifts with four Squires a piece, Counts and Ba-
rons with three, a Knight with two, and a Gentleman with
one.

The

(r45)

The hour and place for the T urnament being appoint-
ed , he that had a defire to break a Lance there, came to
th ePreJidents Lodgings to have his Name written down,
which was done in the prefence of three Heralds , to
whom the Champion delivered his Helmet and Sword , and
after he had been at Confefllon5 prefented himfelf in the
Litis with one or more Squires, according to his quality.
The Horfes of the Combatants were to be without fault
or exception^ the Caparifons and Furniture fuc has gave
do offence ; their Saddles without any extraordinary ri-
fingbefore and behind, andall things equal. After which
they performed all kind of Exercifes on Horfe-back : and
after the JouJls were ended, every than repaired to the
Trefident of his Nation , to wait for the Sentence of the
Judges ; and he that bed deferved the Prize , received it
either from the hand of fome Lady, or from the Prince
that gave it.

Thefe Paftimes were afterwards difufed , upon the E»
mutation it caufed between the Princes and Nobility , who
drove to outvie one another ; or upon wars, in which there
was no leifure for fuch Exercifes ; or perhaps upon con-
fideration that divers bravemen loft their lives in thefe
Encounters : And no lefs a Prince than Henry the Second,
King of France, negleftingto wear his Beaver down, was
(lain in a Turnament. And at Darmjladt alfo, in the year
1403. at the Three and twentieth Turnament which was
held in Germany, the Gentlemen of Franconia and thofe
of Heffe, drew fo much blood upon one another, that
there remained dead upon the place feventeen of the for-
mer, and nine of the latter.

The Winter growing on called me to make hafte to
Hamburg , from whence I intended to pafs by Sea into
England, and therefore I took the advantage of the Stage-
Coaches at Magdeburg , and in four days came to Ham-

V burg j

bmg\ r travelled through a Country for the moil part
barren, of little accommodation, or ficarce any thing ve-
ry remarkable, through part of the Eleflour of Branden-
burg, and then through the Duke of Lunenburg's Coun-
try, paffingby ihco uy of Lunmbmg , a handfome wal-
led City, beautifies with divers fair churches, with high
Spires. The Church of St. Lambert, the town-houje %
and the Duke's Palace , are fair. Here are Salt-(prings\\\
the town, very beneficial to the place , and fupplying
the neighbour Countries* The town is commanded by a
Bill near to it, called Kalkberg y which lieth on the
North-fide,

In this Road through lower Saxony, I could not but
take notice of many Barrows or Mounts of Earth 3 the
burial ^Monuments of great and famous Men , to be often
obferved alfo in open Countries in England , and fotne-
times rows of great Stones , like thofe in Wormins his Da*
m(k Antiquities : And in one place I took more particu-
lar notice of them, where three mafTy Stones in the mid-
dle , were encompaffed in a large fquare by other large
Stones fee up an end.

Rambmgis a fair City , and one of the great ones in Grr-
many*j.. it is feated in a Plain^ being populous, rich, and
remarkably ftroog ; I £ is fortified a la Moderne, much
after the way of Holland , with works of earth, but in no
place yet Revenues, or faced with brick ox fione: The
territory belonging to it is but fmail ; it is divided into
the new and the old town. There are five Gates : The
Stone gate , leading towards Lubeck ; the Dome-gate 5
th e Alton gate, or which leadeth unto Jltenaw, a place
near the town, belonging to the King of Denmark, where
£he Romanifts and Calvinifts have their Churches ; the
Bridge-gate ; and the Dike gate. The Buildings of this
City are handfome, and commonly have a fair entrance

into them* The Senate-houfe is noble , adorned with
carved Statuas of the Nine Worthies < The Exchange or
place of meeting for Merchants, was then enlarging , it
being too fmall to receive thofe Numbers which frequen-
ted it. Many of their Churches are very fair , with high
Steeples , covered with Copper. The Front of Sr. Rathe*
rines is beautiful. The Steeple of Sr. Nicholas is fup-
ported with great gilded Globes. The other grea {Churches,
are the Dome-Churchy Sr. Peters, Sr. Jacob Jl\\q greater arid
lefs, Sc. Michael, the Neve Church in the New town. The
leffer churches , are St, Gertrude , St. Mary Magdalen 5
and the Holy Gboft. They have a Sermon every day, as in
other Lutheran Cities.

The River Aljler runs through it into the Elbe , and
turneth many Mills : and the Tide comes up into divers
Streets through Chands, although it be diftant eighteen
German miles from the Sea, or Mouth of the Elbe. This
place aboundeth with fhipping, and many of good Bur-
den, and is well feated for Trade, as havinganopen paf
Jage into the Ocean , and being but a days Journey from
th S'Lubeck on the Baltick Sea , and being feated upon the
long River Elbe, the third great River of Germany ,
whereby it may have Commerce with a great part of that
Country , and as far as Bohemia.

Hamburg is full of Strangers and Merchants of feveral
Countries. The English Company have good Vriviledges
and a rich Trade, and Ships come laden thither with Cloath
to the value of an hundred thoufand pounds fterling ? and
they live here in good Reputation, and to the honour of
their Country ; they are Ferfins of worth , courtefie , and
civility \ and I heartily wifh them all fuccefs in their af-
fairs* I muft not omit the acknowledgment of my par-
ticular Obligation to that learned and worthy Per (on , Mr*
Griffin, Preacher unto the Company, hit* Free the Trea-

' V 2 furer*

ftirer, Mr. Banks, who hath been in many places of Na-
folia , and the Holy Land, Mr. jf enkinfon , and my very
obliging Friends Mr. Catelin and Mr. Tovenly.

This place hath the happinefs to be quiet when the
great Princ§s of Europe are at war ; for it defires to hold
a ftrid Amity with Princes, and. declines aMDiffcntion with
them.

I found a Ship a iHamburg bound for London, and while
it was fitting for Sail* I made a fhort excurjion into pare
of the King of Denmarks Country ; and returning to
Hamburg again, I ordered my affairs for England upon
the firft wind, and hoped the next Tide to get over the
Altenaw fandf and to pafs the Blanckneft, but a crofs
wind prevented, fo that I left not Hamburg till the tenth
of December , and then I had the good Company of Mr.
Boyle , who came from Narva , and fet Sail in a new
Ship 5 but the days being at the (horteft , and the nights
dark in the Neve Moon, the Tide falling alfo in the day
time, we were able to get no further the firft day than
Stadt, or Shade, upon the River Zveingh, a ftronglW#,
belonging to the King of Sweden^ where the Ships that
come up the River pay Cuftome, and where the Englijb
Merchants had formerly their Rejidence, when they left
Hamburg upon a Difcontenr*

December the r i th. we came by Gluckjladt , belonging
to the King of Denmark , where the Caftle , the King's
Palace , and the Church are handfome, and Anchored that
night before the Mouth of the River Oajl , which arifeth
in Bremerland, and falleth into the Elbe a mile from Brunfi
biittel, on the other Holfatian flioar.

December the i ith . we loft fight of the Northern flhoar,
and palled Cook's Haven, in full hopes to put out to Sea
that night; but about Three in the Afternoon we were
becalmed a League and a half below it , where we were

forced

(i 9>

forced to come loan Anchor again, left the flrong Ebbe
fhould fee us on ground among (he Sands i So we lay that
night between Lhickfand on the North, and Newark on the
South, right over againfl a Light- houfe .

December the 13^. the wind turning Wefternly, and
blowing hard, we returned to Cook rs Haven, and came •
to Anchor. Here I came a fhoar, and went up the Land
to the Fort in this place belonging to the City o f Ham-
burg: It is a high fquare Work, with a double Ditch ,
and fome Fejfels come up to the Fort ; but the Ditch or
Chanel which comes thither out of the Elbe, is dry at low
water. The T own is called lieutfbuttel, not far from the
Lands end. Two or three days after, with a cold North*
Eaft-wind, we let Sail for England. Coming out of the
Elbe, we were all the Afternoon in fight of an Ifl ind, cal-
led Heilige-Undt , or Holy-land, belonging to the Duke
of Holjlein, which being very high Land, is to be fee n
at a good diftance, and is of excellent ufe to direfl and
guide Ships into the Mouth of the Elbe , without w hich
they would be at a great lofs , the Country about that
Rivers Mouth being all very Jow Land.

Heiligelandr is afmall ljland , having about two thou-
fand Inhabitants , and fix or feven fuiall Eeffels belonging
to it, which are imployed a great part of the year in bring-
ing Lobfiers and other Fijb to London or £ uinboroughs
the Inhabitants living moft upon Fijh . We bore out to
Sea all night , and the next day made towards the Land
again, and failed in fight of Schiemoniekeoghe , AmeUndt *
and Schelling 1 in the Evening we faw the Lights at the
VlyandTexeL, when we were near the Land, we were
much troubled with the Froft and cold Weather , and left
when we were off at Sea. The next day we had a fair
wind, and made fuch way, that in the Evening we took
down our Sails, and let the Veffel drive,, not being wil-
ling

05°)

ling to deal with the ffaoar in the night. The next morn-
ing we foon difcovered the Northforeland covered with
Snow, and came to an Anchor in Margarita Road, where
the wind growing very high, we rode it out for two days
and two nights* and came fafe on (hoar (praifed be God)
upon Chrifimas- day morning.

Now having made fo long a walk in Germany, I tnuft
confefs I returned with a better opinion of the
Country, than I had before of it; and cannot but think
it very confiderable in many things. The Rivers there-
of are noble, and feem to exceed thofe of Frame and /-
taly. Of the Rivers of Italy , the Padua or Fo , is the
moft confiderable, which nocwithftanding, hath no very
Jong courfe, before it runneth into the Adriatick Sea> And
Italy being divided by the Affennine-btils , running from
WefttoEaft, the Rivers which arife from either fide , '
cannot be Jong, neither on the South-fide, before they
run into the Mediterranean 5 as the Arm , Garigliano , and
others : Nor on the North fide , before they run into the
Adriatick , or the Fo .

The chief Rivers of France , as the Loyre , the Seine ,
the Rhofne^ and the Garonne, I cannot but highly com-
mend, having palled upon them for divers days. There
are alfo four great Rivers in Germany 5 the Danube , the
Rhine , the %lbe$ and the Oder, but none of France feem
comparable unto the Rhine and Danube, France having
the Sea upon the North, the Weft, and the two large Pro-
vinces of Languedoc, and Province upon the Mediterra-
nean Sea , hath the opportunity of Noble Cities and Sea-
ports .* But fame doubt may be made, Whether any there-
of do exceed Hamburg, Lubeck , and Dantzick .

The great number of populous, large, and handfome
Cities, doth afford great content unto a Traveller in Ger-
many \ for befides about Sixty fix free Imperial Cities,

there

OsO

are many more of good note belonging to particular
Princes, and divers highly pnviledged* And furely a
true Estimation of the Cities and Towns of thefe days,
canrioc be duly made from the Accounts and Beficripu-
ons thereof left an hundred years fioce or snore, for fince
thofe times, Buildings have been better modelled and or-
dered ; Fortifications and Cut-works more regularly
contrived ; Convents and Publick Houfes more neac;y
and commodioufly built; and the fair Colledges and
Churches of the Jefuites, which are now to be feen in
do much fet off the Beauty of great Places. Every
where we meet with great and populous Towns, Villages,
Caftles, Seats of the Nobility, Plains, For efts, and plea-
fant Woods. And befides the fatisfafiion we may have
from Obje As aboveground , we may find no fmall con-
tent in the wonders thereof under it , in Mines , Minerals
almofi: of all forts, of Gold , Silver, Copper, Iron , Finn,
Lead, gtuickfilver , Antimony, Coal, Salt , Sulphur , Cad -
mia, and others , where there are alfo Angular Artificers
and Workmen , in the feveral Artifices thereof. Con-
vention with the People iseafie , they behaving them-
felves without much Formality, and are plain-dealing
and trufty, fo that a Traveller needs not to be fo fo-
licitous and heedful of what he hath, as in fome other
Countries, which are efteemed of greater Civility.
The Women are generally well-complexioned <, fober,
and grave , and they have not yet learned the cuftome
of their Neighbours of Frame and Holland , to admit of
being faluted by Men: faithful to their Husbands, and
careful in the affairs of their Houfes.

They makegood provifion againft the cold of their
Country , by fleeping between two Feather-beds and
•Stoves*

(152)

The common Stoves in Inns , wherein there are for
the moft part feveral Companies eating, drinking, and
in the night fleeping , are convenient, confidering the
great cold, or at lead tolerable; but they being rooms
clofe fhutup, thefmellof the meat, and efpecially of
Cabbage, an ufual Difli amongd them, makes them un-
pleafant, fo that fometimes 1 preferred the courfe of
hot Countries, while I railed to mind, that in Pro-
vince and Italy we drank frozen Julebs , Which we dif-
folved with the heat of our hands , flept upon a fleet ,
on theoutfideof the Bed, with all the Windows of the
Chamber open ; and as we fate at dinner, there was a
Fann in the middle of the Room, hanging over our Heads,,
about two yards broad, which with a firing was pulled
backward and forward to cool us , and divers had Pans
filled with Snow, to cool the (beets when they went into
their Beds.

Germany is a great Hive of men, and the mighty de-
finition of men made by the laft German wars , and by
the Plague is fo repaired , that it is fcarce discernible.
They are fruitful, and full of Children: They are not
exhaufted by Sea , Colonies fent forth, or by peopling J-
merkan Countries ^ but they have fome confumption by
wars abroad, when they beat peace at home : few wars
being made in other parts of Europe , wherein there are
not fome Regiments of Germans ; the People being na-
turally Martial, and perfons well defcended5very averfe
from a Trading courfe of Life.

While I read in Tacitm of the old barbarous and rude
State of Germany , how poorly they lived, that they had
their Houfesat adiftance from one another; how igno-
rant they were in Arts ; and it was doubted whether their
Country afforded Mines ; that they lived by exchange
of things, making little or no ufe of mony, and the like.

/*«)

I may juftly wonder to behold the prefent advance and
improvement in all commendable Arts, Learning, Civili-
ty, fplend id and handfome Cities and Habitations, and
the general face of things incredibly altered fince thofe
ancient times ; and cannot but approve the expreflion of
a Learned Man, though long fince , That if Arioviftus ,
Civilis, and thofe old famous men of Germany, fhould re »
vive in their Country again , and look up to Heaven, behold-
ing the Confiellations of the Bears and other Stars fhty might
probably acknowledge that thefe were the fame Stars which
they were wont to behold 5 but if they fhould look downward ,
and well view the face of all things , they would imagine
themfelves to be in a new worlds and never acknowledge this
to have been their Country ,

C*54>

A

JOURNEY

FROM

C O LEN

I N

GERMANY

T O

LONDON;

firing the Treaty of Peace at Colen in
Y the year 1673. between the United
States of the Netherlands , the King
of Great Britain, and the French
King ; many Englijb Gentlemen ha-
ving accompanied theirExcellencies
the Lords Ambafiadours and Pleni-
potentiaries in their Journey, had a
defire alfo to view fotne of th® Neighbouring Territo-
7 ““ ries.

(r5S)

rics, and todivertife themfeives during' the heat of the
Summer, ac th eSpaay the Baths of Akent and other pla-
ces. Having therefore, in order to our journey, obtain-
ed a Pafport for our Safety from Count hlondel , one of
th eySpani/h Plenipotentiaries , aocf from their Excellencies
Sir Jo feph William [on, and Sir Lecline Jenkins ; we left
Qln onMunday the Fourth of July , and upon the Road
overtook my Lord of Peterborough , who had been at
Duffe dorp 5 at the Duke of Newburg*% Court, and went
afterwards into Italy to Modena, and brought over her
Highnefs theprefent Dutchefsof Tork . We dined at a

finall walled Town , called Berckem, which feme think
to be a name corrupted from iibermum, where we flay-
ed a great part of the Afternoon, to accommodate an un*
lucky Accident which happened.* A Servant of one of
the Engli/h Gentlemen having cafually fhot a Horfe, which
belonged to a Commander under the Duke of Newburg ,
lying at that time with a party of liorfe at this Town , fo
that we travelled in the Evening through the Woods , and
came late to a place called Steinjlraffe, and .the next day
morning vve went to Juliers .

Gulick% or Juliets, is a final! Town by the River Roer ,
but very ancient, and called by the Romans , Juliacum ,
conceived to have been founded by Julius Ceefar ; the
fometimes of the Dukes of Gultck , before the uni-
ting hereof wi h Clever and fince thediffolutron of that
Eftate, poflefled by the United Provinces ; and then a-
gain by the Spaniards ; but at prefent in the hands of the
Duke of Newburg . It being agreed at the conclufion of
Peace between the Spaniards and the Hollanders^ That the
Marquefs of Brandenburg fhuuld have <CJTiarck and Cleve ,
and the Duke of Newburgh Gulick and Berg. This is a
handfnme well fortified Town, the Streets (freight, and
the Houfes of Brick . The Citadel confifts of four Bajlions,

X 2 of

00)

df a regular Fortification ; within which is the Prinres
Palace. The Piazza in the Town ishandfome^ and the
whole confiderable for its beauty and Jlrength.

July the 5M* we came to jtken, or Aquifgranuns, five
Leagues difiant from Gulick \ the French call it /Ax la
Chapelle^ from a Chappel in the great Church , much vAfited
by Pilgrims from many parts ; and famous for the great
number of Reliques preferved therein* When the Ro~
mans made war upon the Germans, they pofTefTed them-
ielves of divers places between the Rhine and Maes .
And Granm, a noble Rormn, being fent into tlefe parrs
of Gallia Belgica}about the year of our Lord Fifty three,
difcovtred among ihe Woods and Hills thefe hot Springs ,
which to this day are fo much celebrated in many parts
of Europe $ who afterwards made ufe of them, and a-
domed them after the manner of the Roman Baths , and
built a noble Habitation mar them; part of which the
inhabitants would haveftill to be (landing, retaining the
name of Turrit Grant, an old Tower at the Eaft-end of
the Town houfe ; a noble Antiquity : But the manner of its
building gives fufpicion it cannot be fo old. Hence thefe
Thermo from their Difcoverer have been named Aqua*
Grant#, and came to be frequented; and the Town of
Aquifgrane built and flourifhed, till Attila , the King of
the Huns , or Hungarians , deftroyed it*

About four hundred years after, Charles the Great ri-
ding out a hunting in thefe parts , as he pafied through
the Woods, his Horfes Foot ftrook into one of thefe Hot*
firings ; near which he alfo took notice of the Ruins of
ancient Palaces and Buildings long before forfaken; and
being ftill more and more delighted with the pleafant Si-
tuation of the place, and conveniency of thefe hot Ri-
volets , he renewed and adorned the Baths 5 built his
Royal Palace near them; and appointed that the King of

the

the Romans fbould be crowned with an Iron Crown here,
as wirh a Silver one at Milan , and a Gold one at Rome
He alfo built anoble Collegiate Churchy dedicated to the
blejfed Virgin, in the prefence of many Princes and TBT
fhops > in the year 804, and endowed it with Revenues
for the mainfainance of Canons, wholived togetherin a
Co/ledge atfirft } bur ar prefent feparately in the manner
of Prebends . He built alfo the old @r inward Wall of the
City , fo that it fiouriflied till the year 882. at which
time ir was again ruined by _ the Fury of the A' ormans 3
and the Emperours Palace burnt to the ground. This Ci-
ty 7 befides thefe Devadations from the Irruptions of the
Buns and Normans , bai h been divers times fince de-
ftrojed by Fire 3 as in the year 1 146. which lofs it
overcame in fuch manner, that Twenty fix years after;
it recovered not only its former greatnefs, but was fo
much increafed, that the large outward Wall was built
by the command of the Emperour Frederick the
Find.

In the year 1224. happened another great Fire 5 in
which, not only the Buildings , but many of the Inha-
bitants perifhed. And the Roof of the Church was bun , t
in another Fire 1236. And now of late, for it is
cot long fince it hath recovered its Ioffes by the Fire in
the year 1656. when twenty Chutcheszwd Chappels , and
about five thoufand private Houfes were deftroyed.

The Town houfe, or Senate- houfe was built 1353/
being all of Freefone , handfomely adorned with the
Statues of the Emperour $. The firjl and fecond Story of
this Building is divided into Chambers ; but the higheft
is all one entire Room or Hall, 162 Foot long, and 60
Foot broad. It is well painted in divers parts by ji. mi -
faga : Two Pieces of whofe drawing are much efleemed
here ; one of the Refurretfion% and another of Charles

0«»)

the Great , giving the Charter to the City of Aken. Here
thtErnperours , at the time of then Coronation, ufed to
keep their Feafts , together with the ElettoursveA other
Princes. The Roof is fupported by four Pillars ; through
the middle of which, ihzfmoakoi all the Chimneys of
this Building , is by a handfome contrivance conveyed
away.

Oyer againft this JRoufe , in the middle of the Piazza ,
is a Fountain , coofiderable both for largenefs and neat
JlruHure j . contrived by a great Artijl , Gerard Coris :
where four Springs perpetually empty themfelves from
above into a large Bafon of Copper , of thirty Foot Dia-
meter • from whence again it defcends by fix Pipes into
a Cijlern of Stone , haodfomely engraved , and pafTeth to
many other Fountains in the Town. On the top of this
Fountain ftands a large Statue of Charles the Grea ^Patron
of this City^ made of brafs, and gilded over. He is in
Armour , and looketh towards Germany. About the edges
of the great hr ajs Rafon is this Infcription :

Hie aquisper Granurn Principem quend&m Romanum,
Neronis Agrippx fratrem invents, calidorum fontium
Thermo a Principio conftrutta. Poftea veru per D . Caro-
I urn Magnum Imp, conftituto ut loom hie Jit caput eft regni
fedes trans Alpes , renovate funt : quibus Thermis hie ge-
lidmfons influxit olim qttem nunc demum hoc eeneo vaft il-
lujlravit S. P. Aquifgranenfis , Anno Domini
1620.

Th t Church of our Lady, built by Charles the Great 3
is of an odd Figure, At the Weft-end is a Steeple adorned
with divers Pyramids ; and on the top a large Globe and
Croft . From hence, higher much than theC^f£,paffeth
a Gallery ? fupported by a large Arch to a Cupola near the

middle

(*S9)

middle of the Church. At the Eaft-end is alfo a final!
turret at hanthorn. Theinfideof the whole is adorned
with Marble Pillars of divers forts, with Pillars of brafs,
gilded Statues , brafs Doors and Partitions y and much
Mofaick work.

In the middle of the Church, where Charles the Great
was buried, hangetb a very large Crown , given to this
Church by the Emperour Frederick the Firft. This Crown
is made of filver and brafs gilt, adorned with fix teen
little Towers , and eight and forty Statues of Jilvtr , of
about a Foot highland thirty two which are lefler. Be-
tween thefe ftand eight and forty Candleflicks to receive
the Lights burnt here upon Fejliva/s.

Of thefe large Crowns I have feen at Co leu , and other
parts 5 and it hath been an ancient Ornament in Churches „
The Greeks havea Crown; or large Circle much like this,
in the middle of ttio/l of their bed Churches $ on which
they hang many Oftrich Eggs? and the Pictures of the A*
pjlles and Saints. The lurks do likewife imitate it in
their sZMofyues, but inftead of Pictures place Lamps.

Frederick the Firft took up the Body of Charles the
Great out of its Sepulchre in the middle of the Churchy
and afterwards buried it again j partly in a fiver Coffin
under the Altar of the Quire , and partly near the Wall
of the old Building , covering it with the fame tomb [lone %
as before * which is here reported to have been firft ta~
ken from the tomb of Julius Cafar. It is of white Mar-
ble, and hath the Figure of Vroferpna upon it. Out of
this tomb of Charles the Great , were taken up a great
numberof Reliques and confiderable Rarities 5 which he
had gotrogether in his lifetime^ fome of them given him
by Aaron King of Perfia, by the Patriarch of ConftantP
nople, and others 5 divers of which are ftill preserved
here : and theft following we had the opportunity to fee.

Some

(i6o)

Some of the bteflfed Virgins hair . One ring or link of the
Chain with which St. Peter was chained in Prifon. The
Head of Charles the Great. The hones of his Arm . His
Sword which the Emperours wear at the time of their Co-
ronation. The PiSlure of the Virgin Mary, with our 5*«
v'mr in her Arms, emboflfed upon a Jafiis, done by St*
Luke, hanged about the Neck of Charles the Great , and
io found in his Tomb* A Nob’e Manufcript of the Cofiels
found in the fame T omb.Charles the Great's Horn which he
ufed when he went a hunting- His Crucifix made out of
thenwiof the Crofs.Our Saviour's Girdle of Leather ,with
the Seal of Confiantine the Great at each end* A piece of
the true Manna. Some of the Bones and Blood of Sc.
Stephen , richly enchafed , upon which the Emperours
are fworn at their Inauguration . A piece of one of the
Nails of the Crofs. An Agnm Dei fent from the Pope to
Charles the Great j and many other Reliques. Here is al-
f>the T^oftheEmperour Otho the Third, in black
Marble, who in the year 1000, firft conftitutedthe Ele-
ctors of Germany .

Near to this City are many forts of Minerals found ; as
Lead ore, the Sulphur , and Vitriol ft one , Iron, Coal , and
Cadmia^ or Lapis Calaminaris : With this latter we faw
them make Brafs , or multiply Copper , in this manner.
They take calcined Cadmia, or Calmey, as they call it,
Copper from Sweden , and the melted drofs of both 3 to
twenty eight pounds of Gopptr they put an hundred pound
.43 f Calmey : They put firft into very large Crucibles , fome
old pieces of brafs and fiacken , or the drofs, and after-
wards the Calmey and Copper , and let them (land in the
Furnace twelve hours 3 after which, they put eight Crth
cibles full imo*one, and let what will run over, the beft
finking always to the bottom 3 and then caft it into a
Frame made of ftone^ bordered with bars of Iron 3 and

fo

(t6i)

fo run it into bra ft Plates, which are afterwards cut in pie*
ces with large Cijfars.

The hot Bathes are very much frequented at p refent.
Within the inward Walls are three convenient ones : I he
Rmperours Bath , the Little Bath , and the Bath of
rinus. The Emperoms Bath is in the fame p ace, and fed
with the fame Springs with that in which formerly
Charles the Great took fo much delight, that he frequently
ufed to fwim thereinjie which Exercife few were more ex-
pert than himfelf $ andfpemthe latter end of his days
here, and would often invite to the Bath, not only his
Sons, but his Nobles, his Friend , and Guards ; fo as it
was cuftomary to Bathe a hundred together in thofedays.
But now they are divided into leffer Partitions. The
Emperours Bath having five Bathing Rooms ; and the Lit*
tie Bath which cometh out of it three.Thefeare reckoned
to be Nitro- Sulphur e us ; and arife fo hot, that they let
them cool twelve hours before they ufe them. From un-
der a great round Stone which covered a Well, in which
there were fome of thefe Hot Springs, I faw Brimjlone ,
hard, above an inch thick , and Saltpeter y and a petri*
fied Subftance finely variegated, taken out.

Befides thefe, near unto the inward Wall of the City,
there are Baths which are not fo hot as the former, efteem-
ed to be Sulphur eo-nitr out : The fmell of them is fome-
what offenfive , and the water in the Gijlerns not tranfpa-
rent. The firft is the Bath of St. Cornelius , which hath
two Receptacles. The fecond, the Rofe Bath , fo cal-
ledfromMr. Rofe, a Citizen of Aken^ who built it. The
third, Compus Bait , or the Poor man's Bath . Of this fort
of warm Water there is alfo a Fountain , muchreforted to,
and drank of every morning in the Summer for many Chro-
nical Difeafes. About a Furlong out of the South-gate
of Jken, is a Village called Porcetum} or Borfet, from rhe

Y

great

(162)

great number of wild Hoggs, which formerly frequented
that place ; in which are many Ha Springs upon both
fidesof a little Rivolet, and let into Houfes, where they
are diftributed into feveral Baths of Stone. There are
fourteen of thefe Houfes, and twenty eight Baths ; the
Baths holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water, each
of them: the Water is clear and pleafant, without any
offenfivefmell ; exceffive hot when it cometh firft out of .
the Ground , hotter than the hotteft ofjtken, and is left
to cool about eighteen hours before they ufe it. They life
alfoan Inftrumentof Wood, pierced with many holes,
to help to cool them fooner, or to ftir the Water when
any onegoeth in, whereby he is not fo fenfible of the
heat. There are many cold Springs rife near thefe hoc
ones,, whereby they might be tempered;and furely the
quantity of the hot Water being fo great, no place might
be made more delightful j nor no Baths more noble. The
Turks in our times, domoftof any Nation bcautifie their
Baths, and render them ferviceable to their health and
pleafure.

In Jujlria at Baden , the Sawer Bath is built after the
Turktjh manner, with a Cupola over it: and if any one
hereafter fhall build or beamifie thefe, they will yield to
very few in Europe * At prefent moft of them are of a
fquare Figure, of about five or fix yards over ; and the
Houfes in which they are, very near one another. The
firff Houfe hath the name of the Ladies Bath ; the fecond
is the Snake $ the third and fourth the Sword \ the fifth
the Golden Mill j the fixth the Fool ; the feventh the
Geek] the eighth the Great Bath ; the ninth the Fountain;
£he tenth the Crab ; the eleventh the World Inverted ; the
twelfth the Glafs ; the thirteenth the Angel ; and the
fourteenth the Rofe* There is alfo another in the open
Air, called the Poor matis Bath. In the Street is a Well

or

(*«jj

Well or Fountain of thefe Hot [firings , of as great a heat
as any I have feen ; perpetually boyling or bubiing. But
of all thefe Baths Dr. Blondel and Dr, Didier have writ-
ten fo particularly, as I need not to add any thing more ,
and particularly of their Ufes.

Within two Leagues of Aken> in the Country of Lim*
bourg , is a Mine of Lapis CaLminaris , which we went
to fee, having a Corporal and eight Mufyue tiers for our
Security to pafs the Wood. This ^3line lieth over a-
gainft the Caftle of Einenberg. As foon as I had delive-
red a Letter to Mx. John Franck , Comptroller of the
Mine for his Catholick Atajejly , he went along with us,
tofliewusthe manner how the Cadmia groweth in the
Earth, and other Curiofities, This Mine having been
wrought Three hundred years5 and being one of the moft
remarkable of that kind , it may not be impertinent to
fet down fome particulars concerning it. It is about
eighteen or nineteen Fathoms deep, lying all open like a
Chalk Mine , of an Oval Figure; they digg atprefent in
feveral places, and the beft Calmey lieth between the
Rocks, in thedeepeft part of the Mine : They have now
found an excellent Veyn fo placed, of eleven or twelve
Foot thick, which they digg out with Pickaxes , with
fome difficulty , by reafon that the Lapis Calaminaris is
fo very hard. The colour of this Stone is of a dark yellow
and red , and hath Veyns of natural Brimjlone mixed thin-
ly in it. The Veyns of the Lapis Calaminaris being fo
large, they follow them not only in one place, but digg
over one anothers heads, and frame their work into the
ftape of large Stayrs, and one throws up what another
diggs, and fo upward till they lade the Carts with it.
Some of the Cadmia is blackifli and dark brown ; and
there ar e Fluores between the Cavities of th t Stone hand-
fomely figured, but moft of a blackijh colour . The mrky

Y a about

C*<4>

about the Mine the mofi: remarkable, are thefe : r. An
Overftot-wheel in the Earth , which moves the Humps to
pumpout the water •, and this not placed in the Mine,
but on one fide of it, and apa(fage cut out of the Mine
to the bottom of it, by which the Mine is drained j and
another paffage or cuniculus , out of the place where the
wheel is turned, which lets out the water which turns the
wheel, and alfo the water which cometh out of the Mine
into the Neighbouring Valley . 2. The wafting of the Ore

or Stone , which they perform , as at other works , by
letting the water over it, and ftirring it ; and this they
do wherefoever they begin to work near the Superficies of
the Earth, for there the Calmey is lefs, and more mixed
with Clay and Earth : but the moft remarkable work is
the cakiningof the Ore (for all our Lapis Calaminaris of
the Shops is the calcined Calmey ) and it is worth the fee-
ing 5 for they place Faggots in a handfome order firft,
and cover a large round Area with them , of about For-
ty or Fifty yards Diameter , upon which they place Char -
coal in as good an order, till all be covered and filled
up a yard from the ground ; then they place ranks of the
largeft Stones of Calmey, and after them fmaller, till they
havelaid,all on? and then by fetcing fire to the bottom,
the fire comes to each fione , and all is handfomely calci-
ned. From hence we went to Limburg, meeting with di-
vers Smldkrs upon the Road, who defired mony of us, but
did not attempt any thing againft us, we being many of us
together in Company.

Limburg is feated upon a high Rock , which overlooks
all the Country , and a little River runneth almoft round
it at the bottom . The Avenue to the T own on the Norch-

fide is difficult all along upon the edge of the Rocfc and
the Gate of -the T own> over which is the Governor's
Hmfer fpreadsit felf from one fide of the Rock to the

other*

ocher, and loeketh up the pdjfage. Here we fhew our
Pafports from the Spanifb Plenipotentiaries \ and in the
Afternoon had a pleafant Journey to the Spaa. In the way
we faw where the French Army had paffed the Country
towards Metz, having lain about a Fortnight at Vtsbet ,
after the taking of M&eftveicht.

Spa is a neat Vi Hedge in the For eft of Ardenna , Tea ted
in a bottom, encompafled on ail fides with Hills , and on
the North with fteep Mountains. So that it happening
to rain while we were there, the place was, in fame hours
time, filled with water , the Hay walked out of the Mea-
dows, the falls in the River made even , and Pobunt , one
of the Mineral Fountains , was drowned. There was
not much Company when we were there, although it were
in the hotteft time of the year , which is moft feafonab!e
for drinking the waters ; by reafon of the wars, and the
danger of coming through the Country to them. But in
Spa it felf all people are free from danger , ail the Neigh-
bouring Princes protefiing it , and would count it very
diflhonourable to difturb a place, which by the virtue of
its Mineral Springs , is fo beneficial to Mankind. Thefe
Waters are not only drunk upon the place , but are alfe
fealed up in Bottles , and Pent into many parts of Europe »
And Mr. Goquelet, at whofe Houfe we lodged, told me
that he Pent it as far as Saragoffa in Spain: and that he had
at that time Thirty thouPand Bottles empty, and waited
for a good PeaPon to fill them, which is the hotteft, dry -
eftimt of the Summer, and the bar deft Froft in Winter ;
at which times the water is ftrongeft , (partying , and brisk
The chiefeft of thefe & Mineral Fountains are thefe, Gm^
fter, Saviniert , Tonnelet , and Pobunt.

Geronfter is in the middle of a thick Wood9 about an
Bnglift) mile and a half Southward of the Spd\ it is the
ftrongeft of any, andthebeft adorned, being built up

with

(i£6)

vntbftone? and a Pavilion over it, fuppor ted with four
handfome pillars. There is a green place cleared m
the JfW near to it , and a little Houfe for the Patients to
warm chemfelves in early, in the morning, or in cold wea-
ther* The Arms of Sr Conrad Bourgfdorjf, who adorn-
ed this Fountain , are placed over, on two fides 5 and
On the other two this Infcription in French and High-dutch
in a handfome Oval .

Le Reverendiffime & ExcellentiJJime ST ST Conrade
Bourgfdorff, Grand Chamber Un, & premier Confeiller
d'Ejlat, Colonel & Gouverneur General de tons les Forts dr
Fori erodes du Sereniffime Eletfeur de Brandebourg dans fin
Ejlat Electoral , Grand Prevojl des Eglifes Cathedrales
^’Halberftadt <$* Brandebourg , chevalier de rOrdre de
St, Jean, dr Commandenr du Baillage de Lagow, de gros
Machenau, Golbeck, Bouckow , Oberftorff, &c.
&c . drc.

This Fountain fmelleth very ftrong of Brimjlone , and
caufech vomiting in a great many, yet pafleth chiefly by
Urine , as they do all 3 and ftrikes a purple with Nut-
galls more inclining to red, than the waters of Tunbridge .
The Sediment is of alight blew in the Fountain , but of a
dark dirty ^everywhere el fe. Not far from this is a-

nother large Spring in the Wood much like it , but not as
yet built and beautified.

Saviniere is another Fountain , almoft as far from the
Spa. Eaft ward, and built after the manner of a Tower : the
JciduU are not fo ftrong as the former. There is another
Fountain hard by this, almoft the fame , held to be par-
ticularly good for the Stone and Gravel.

The

(1 67)

The third is Tonnelet% arifing in the Meadow , and built:
up with Jtone : But being there are no Trees nor Shades a-
bout it, it is not fo delightful as the others, And Hen*
riots ab Heers in his Spadacrene, faith that this is more ni-
trous than the reft3 aod caufeth fuch a coldnefs in the
mouth and ftomach , that few can drink of it.

The fourth is Vohunt , in the middle of the Town, from
whence mod* of the water is drawn which is fent abroad 9
if no particular one be fent for. This was beautified with
handfom z Stone-work y by the Bifhopof Liege y to whom
this place belongeth, and this Infcriptionfct over it , Sa-
nit at i Sacrum. It is alfo called the Fountain of St. Femaclm 3
to whom it was dedicated ; and thefe Verfes are Jikewrfe
engraven upon it :

Qbftrntlum refer at, durum terit , humida Jiecat
Debile for tific at$ Ji tamn arte bihis*

i. e.

This opens all Obftrufiions *

And wears away hard Tumours ;

This ftrengthneth much the weaker parts-,;

Aod dries up cold moifl Humours*

Being at the Spa, we vtfited Frmkimnt one After*
noon ? pafling through a thick Wood , there is an old Ca-
file, and good Brimfione and Vitriob works , the fame
Stone affording both ; and I prefume may alfo make the
Spa-water under ground, oratleaft be a principal In-
gredient in it. We faw the manner here how they mel-
ted , and caft their Brimfione firft into great Hath , the
florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle, the
thick; and more obfcure fubfiding and adhering to the

bottom

(i68)

bottom and fides, and is that which is fold for Sulphur
Vivum ♦ We faw aifo the manner of calling the Brim-
ftone into Rolls , or Magdaleons ; And near unto this
place a finoaking, burning , little FHUy which is thus
caufed : They throw out the burnt Pyrites, out of which
Brimjlone hath beendiftilled , and the Vitriol drawn out
by infufion, upon this Hill, which confifts all of the fame
matter, which ferments in time, grows hot, fmoaks, and
burns perpetually, and withal, drinks in a new Vitriol
into itsfelf.

From the Spa we croffed over to Frapont , a Village
feared upon the pleafant River Ufa, or Ourte , where
we took Boat and went down a rapid Stream , yet one of
the pleafantefi; I ever faw5 winding and turning between
fo many green Hills , in part of the Forejl of Ar duenna.
We defeended afterwards thirty or forty fmall Falls in a
long Boat made onpurpofe. The Oar or Paddle being
only a fquare piece of Board fixed to the end of a Pole,
the Pole flanding perpendicularly in the middle of ir.
The delightful River Vefa , or the Wejdret y foon met us ,
and joyning together, we fell down with them into the
Maes near Liege. Upon the Banks of thefe Rivers
all the Arms^Guns, and other Inflruments are made, for
which the Country of Liege is remarkable.

Liege , Luick , Leodium , or Augujfa Eburonum\
Learned Men think this City to be feated near that Val-
ley , wherein two Legions of Julius C<efar , under Sabi -
nus and Cotta , were deftroyed by Ambiorix , chief Com-
mander of the Fburones . It is feated upon the River

Mofa , which entring with two Streams , makes fome
pretty Elands. Three other fmall Rivers arifing in the
Forejl of Ardenna , are alfo here received into the
Maes, whereby they have plenty of Fifli an. other
Conveniencies* The City is very popu’ou': , :t

(»«9)

bath been in former Ages, when as Charles Puke of Bar*
gundy, facked it, and deftroyed an hundred ihoufand of
the people.

It aboundeth with fair Churches , ftately Convents ,
and Religious Foundations , richly endowed, fo that it
hath been called the Par adife of Priejls , and is in that
kind the mod notable in a!! thefe parts. The Palace of
the Bifljop is a noble Fabrick, built by Cardinal Erardus ,
Biftiop of Liege. The Cathedral beareth the Name of Sr.
Lambert , who being Biftiop of Maejlreicht was murder-
ed by Dodo and others, about the year 622. The See was
afterwards tranflated unto Liege by Huberts, as it had
been formerly from Tongres to Maejlreicht , and the Bo-
dy of St. Lambert removed unto this Church, which is
at prefent very noble, being built of a rcddifti Stone ,
very much carved without , and handfomely adorned
within. Between the Quire and Sacrijly , is this Infcrip-
tion in very large Letters »•

D . O. M.

lntemerat <e Virghi Mariae, Santto Lamberto, Ecck-
fi<e dr Patriot Divis Tutelar ibua, Maximilianus Henricus
utriufque Bavariae Dux^rchiepifcopus & Bleitor Colo-
nienfis, Epifcopus & Princeps Leodienfis, Ernefti dr Fer-
dinand i Bavariae Ducum , Epifioporum dr Vrincipum Leodi-
enfium Nepos dr Succejfor in \ui dr Pradecejforum memori*
am Vontbat . MDC L V 1 i J .

The Canons hereof are of great riches and power, and
have the Eleftion of the Biftiop and Prince, who hath alfo
had the Titles of Duke of Bouillon , Marquifs of Fran*
chlmont , and Count of Lootz and Hafbania , In the

j? 2 Coin

Coin of Maximilian , the prefent Elefior of Colin and
Bifliop of 'Liege, 1 find this Infcription :

MaKimilianus Henricus Dei gratia Archiepifcopus Colo-
nienfis , Epifcopm dr Princeps Leodienfis, Supremos Bul-
lonenfis Dux.

Speutus the Eiflhopor Liege , bought the Principality of
Liege of Godfrey of Bouillon , when he went to the Holy
Land\ And in the Treaty of Cambray , j$$?. the pof-
fefilonof Bouillon , and precedency of Title, was gran-
ted to the Bifliopof Liege, al though «at this time alfo the
Houfes of La Tour and Mark do bear the fame.

Of iheParifli Churches that of Sr. John, and of St.
Strvafius are fair. Of the Abbies that of St. Jacob with*
in the Town, and of St. Lawrence , built by Bifhop Ra-
ginardm upon an Hill out of the Town, are noble. There
is alfo a Colkdgeof Englifb]efu\tes, weil-fea ted upon a
Hill, where theGarden is handfotne, and the Dyals trade
by Ft and Jem Lints* , are worth the feeing : And an Eng-
lifh Nunnery handfomely built. In the Church of the Gu~
Melinites , out of the Town, iieth the Body of our famous
Country-man Sir John Mandeviile , who, after he had
travelled through fo many parts, rook an affection unto
this place, and here paffea- the remainder of his life, and
whofe Epitaph , and fome Rarities of his, areftilltobe
feen.

Bifliop Motger \ who was confecrated by St. Gereon ,
Arch-biffiop of Cclev, and died in the year 1007. built
the, walls of this City , and being Tutor t oOtbo the third,
he found means very much to beaudfie it, to repair and
build divers Churches , and endow them with rich Re-
venues, and let the River Maes into the Town, which be-
fore ran upon one fide of it. As %

(i7i)

As their Churches are fair and numerous, to are their
Bells and Chimes remarkable. In the Cathedra! of St,
Lambert there are eight large Bells, and twelve Idler 5
and there is one fo great, as ir is (aid to require Twenty
four men coring it. In the Church of Sr .Paul the Beils
and Chimes are con(iderab!e a, as alfj at Sr .Lawrence and
the crcjfed Friers. I c is a I To an Univerfity, and was fo
famous in former Ages , that they fiill take notice that at
one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings, Twenty'
four Dukes Sons Twenty nine of Counts, befides many
of great Barons Students therein.

Their Speech here, as aTo at Spaw, is called Roman ,
and is a kind of o\d French, or Dialed of that Language,
a great part of which is made up of Latin 2 or Woman
words: and they call the Neighbouring Language of the
Dutch , iuijcon. But many fpeak very good French,
They have fome Vineyards affording a fmall Wine. The
Hills about furnilh them with Quarries of good Stone,
and of feverai kinds. They have al fo divers Mines and
Minerals^ and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire, in feme
places fetched deep out of the Earth, in others nearer
the Surface : and ia one place I fa w them beginning to dig
where they immediately found Coal. Their Pumps and
Engines to draw out the water, are very confiderable at -
thefe Mines ; in fome places moved by WTeeis, at above
a Furlongs diffance, to which they are continued by
flrong Wood-work, which moves backwards and for-
wards continually.

The Citadel ftandeth upon a Hill, and i$ of great Strength*
It was built to keep the City of Liege under Subjeftion.
For 1649. there being fome difturbances in the City,
Ferdinand , theEIettorof Colen , offering to come into
the Town to appeafe it, was oppofed by the Conful,5k-

Z 2 cobm

f!72)

cobus Hemet, who was foon after furprifed and behead-
ed, together with Bartholomews Rolandus \ the Conful ha-
ving fworn the Elefior fhould never come in whilft he
were alive. And the Citadel foon after was ordered to be
built. The Bridges are handfome : that over the great
Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair , and hath large
Arches. From hence we could read the Eleftor’s name
upon the Citadel, Maximilianus, although it were at a
very great diftance, the Letters were fo large.

From Liege we had a pleafaot paffage down the Water
to Maejlreichty pa (Ting by Argent au , a Caftle feated up-
on a high Rock on the right fide of the River , belonging
then to the King of Spain , afterwards by Picket in the
half way, and then by Navagne , a ftrong Fort in the
Maes , which commands the River , and at that time did
the Spaniard fervice ; then by pleafant Rocks on our left
hand, wherein many Guts and Pafiages have been digged,
till we came in fight of Maejlreicht.

This Town having been a little before taken from the
United States by a fiharp Siege , was full of French , and
had a Garrifon in it of about Ten thoufand men ; and in
she Market-place flood about Two hundred large Fields
pieces. Wefaw the places where they had their Batte-
ries and their Mines, and the Half-moon which the Duke
of Monmouth t ook : the Out-works were very nume-
rous, and many of them undermined. Colonel Storff
&ew*d us a handfome Draught of all the Works, Ap-
proaches and Manner of taking of the Town.

About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went
into the great Quarry of Stone, which is one of the no-
bled fure in the World. Between Fadoa and Vicenza I
had formerly feen the famous Cave of CuJlozay ovCubola,
faid to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth , and

Seven:

(m)

Seven hundred in length, but this doth far fsirpafs it ;
the Roof is very high and (lately in mod places, che Pil-
lars not to be numbred, all very large • we paffed two
miles underground amongft them : No Labyrinth can be
contrived more intricate, and yet all parts are uniform.
The Floor all in a level , and the Roof in mod places of
the fame height , and fo much hath that uniform rule,
which I fuppofe was (et to thofe who firft digged, and fo
hath fucceffively been obferved, added to the beauty of
this place, that there is fcarce any thing more noble* It
put me in mind of the hundred Chambers of Nero , which
he caufed to be made under Ground in the Rocks at Bai<e-.
And the Water which we met with in one place , made me
think of Nero's admirable Ft/h-pond, built in the like
manner within the Earth . We came out again near to a

Convent upon the Banks of the River r and returned by
j pater to Maejlreicht *

The next day we parted Company. Mr. Newton , Mr*
Rttrick , Mr. Grove, Mr, Carlton , and Me. Newcomb went
for Akenzvi& Colen z, Mr, Bates awd Mr. Dafion went up
the River again to Liege, at which place, flaying a day
or two to find a convenience to paf$ to Bruffels, we were
nobly entertained at a Dinner with Ventfon, Wild-boar,
and other Dijbes , by that worthy Perfon and Learned
Mathematician Framifcus Slufius , one of the great Canons
of Liege , who alfo continued his high Civilities to us to
the laft C Minute we flayed in town.

Leaving Liege we foon came in fight of Tongres , or
tungrorum oppidum , themoft ancient place in all thefe
Countries. Ortelm would have it to be called of old
Atuatuca : It was a ftrong hold before the coming of
Julius C<efar into Gaul, and was afterwards made a Ro*
mm Station r, and in procefs of time became fo great,

that-

074)

that Attih the Bun deftroyed an hundred Churches in if,
it being at that timea Bi/hop See, which in the year 498
St. Servatius removed unto Maeflreicht. Many old Coins
and Antiquities are ft ill found here; and part of an old
Chappef faid to be built by St. Mat emus , Difciple to
Sr. Be ter, is ftill remaining. When the King of France
made his great inroad into the Low Countries 9 1672. he
borrowed this Town of the Elector of Cologne , and then
paKed on to Mafeick, where croffing the Country to the
Rhine , by the fides of thefe great Rivers, Rhine and
Maes , he made that notable Incurficn , and quitted not
Tongres till he had taken Maejlreicht the year following.
We dined this day at Borchloe , and lodged at S i.Jrwn,
or Sr. Truden, a handfome little town, fo called from a
Church and Ahby herein dedicated to that Saint.

The next day we dined at Fie nen, or Bilmont, on the
little River Geet , once one of the chief Towns in Bra-
bant. but long fi’nce decayed. In thefe j Plain Countries,

in many places we faw fmall Hills , or Sepulchral Eminen-
ces of the Ground : And near unto the Walls of Tienen ,
are three very remarkable ones, faid to be the Bombs of
great Commanders . In the Evening we came to Lo~
vain.

JLovain is the chief City of that Quarter of Brabant ,
which comprehended) Arfchot , Halen , and fudoigne 5 an
ancient and large City, pleafantly feated upon the River
Dele ; it is of great Circuit , and the compajf of the n? all
accounted above four miles about : but there are many
void Spaces , Hills , Fields , and Gardens within it,
which makes it very pleafant and delightful. There
are herein divers good Buildings , Convents •, and Chur-
ches : the chief whereof is the (lately church of Sr.
Peter, the Convent of the Cartfiupans , the Hofpital.

The

(X7S)

The publick Palace or Senate- houfe are alfo No-
b!e.

[c is the great Univerfity of chefe parrs , faid to have
had its beginning about 926. but endowed by John the
Fourth, Duko of Brabant, and confirmed by Pope Mar-
tin the Fifth, 1425. There are Forty three Colkdges in
it; whereof the four chief are hilium, Falco , Gaft rum,
Porcus. Goropius Becams , a Learned Man, and Native
of Brujfels , affirmeth, That no Univerfity in Italy, France,
Germany , or Spain, is to be compared unto it for its e-
Jegantand pleafanc Situation. The Univerfity is under
the Government of Retfor , who is in great efteem and
honour among them. This Univerfity hath produced
many Learned Men : But neither the Buildings of the Col-
ledges , nor their Endowments do equal thofe'of our Uni-
versities, and the Situation thereof feems not to exceed
that of Oxford .

We travelled from hence to Brujfels^ being moft part
of the way in the fight of the very high Tower of the
Church of Sr. Rombald at Machlin *

Count Monterei was then Governour of the Low-
Countries ^ and refidedat Brujfels , the ordinary Seat of
the Governour s of the Spanifh Netherlands 3 which City
he had taken care to fortifie , and to make it more tena-
ble, if it fliould be attempted by the French.

From Brujfels wepafled to Antwerp , where we were
fcandfomely treated by Mr. Wauters and Mr. Hartcp, and
having vifited fome of our Friends, the next day we
pa(Ted the River Schelde , and took Coach in the morning,
travelling through a fruitful, plain, flat Country , fe£
'Withrows of Trees inmolf places, and arrived in the e*
veningat Ghent .

Count,

0?6)

Gaunt, Gandavum, or Ghent , is efteetned to be the
greateft City , not only of Flanders , but of all the Low-
Countries , and challenged a p ace amongft the greateft
in Europe $ but at prefent it decreafeth and decays ra*
ther than encreafeth. And if Charles the Fifth were now
alive, he could not put Paris into his Gant , a greater
Glove would not fic that City , which is fo much increa-
ied fince his time. In Ghent are many noble Convents^
among which the Jefuites is one of the fa i reft : There is
a Gloijlerdhfo of English Nuns . The Cathedral is (lately,
and the Lower belonging to it being very high, gives a
profpeftof a pleafant and fruitful Country round a~
bout it* There are divers Piazza’s , large and fair • in
one of which ftands a large gilded Statu* of Charles the
Fifth, Emperourand King of Spain , who was born in
this City. The whole Town is generally well built,and
the Streets are fair and clean. The Inhabitants hereof
have been taken notice of to be extreatnly given to Se-
dition , and for their fakes a great many other Cities in
Europe are punifhed, and have in a manner totally loft
their Liberties : For the Spaniards , to curb the Sediti-
ous humour of the People of Ghent , were put upon the
Invention of building Citadels in Cities , whereby a few
Souldiers are able to fupprefs any Commotion , or beat
down the Town, fo that here I faw the firft Citadel that
was built in Europe by Charles the Fifth ; It is not large,
and the Baftions little , and though of a Regular Figure,
yet not fo convenient as thofe of latter days, fince that
Art hath been improved.

From Ghent we pafTed by water about Twenty Eng -
lifts miles to Bruges , a very elegant large City , and for-
merly a place of very great Trade, being within three
Leagues of the Sea; fo that from the tops of their high-

eft

(l77)

eft Buildings 5 the Ships under Sail are viiible , and a£
the fame time a Fleet of Ships, and a large Territory of
a fruitful, pleafant Country , cometh under your eye.

It is fortified with Works of Earth and deep Ditches.
The Convents are numerous: The artificial Cuts of IT*-
ter from this Town to all places, maketh it of eafie ac«
cefs ; and though it hath no Pert , the Paffage from hence
toOJlendby water is Ihort : And they are at prefent up-
on a Defign of bringing Ships up to this City .

OJlend is about Ten Englifh miles from Bruges , feared
upon the waves of the German Ocean, which wafh it
continually on one fiie «r And they have now contrived it
fo, as to let the Sea inalmoft round the Town for a great
fpace, whereby it is become much more firong and de»
fenfible than before. For when I looked upon it, and
confidered what it was when it was befieged by Arch-
duke Albertus s and taken by Marquifs Ambroftus Spine -
la, 1604. whh an honourable £urrendtr af er three
years Siege, I cannot but aferibe very much unto iheii Sup-
pliesfrom England, and the obftinate Valour of the De*
fendants, efpecially the Fnglifh under Sir Francis Vcre *
Slays being the hands of the States of the United Pro-
vinces, and Dunkirk under the French. The Spaniards
poffefs no other IV* in Flanders but this and Newport ;
and this being the moft confiderable , thev are now ma-
king the Haven large, and are upon a confiderable Work
in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut
which goeth from OJlend to Bruges , out of their Har-
bour, by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of
Water, which is to communicate with both 5 which, when
it is finiflied, may be very advantageous to the Trafficb,
of the Spanifh Netherlands. This Town (lands very
low, b^xt the Streets are ftreight, large, and uniform

A a From

078)

From hence I went all along upon the Se a-fhoar to
Newport, ahandfomeT 'own, with large fair Streets , but
low built. There were then a great number of (mall
Ships in die Harbour. This place is famous for [he Bat-
tel of Newport , fought here by Alberttis , and Count
^Maurice, .wherein the- Spani(h Forces -loft the day, and
much of the honour of the Field was due unto the Eng-
lijh under Sir Francis Fere; fince which time, although
there hath been much blood filed in thefe Quarters , yec
there hath not beenfoconfiderabiea Battel ever fince , al-
though the Enghjb had alio the fortune to do great Ser-
vice hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the Sandhils ,
w hen a part of the Army of French and Englijh, which
befieged Dunkirk fought with the Spanijb Forces by Neve-
■port , and overthrew them.

From Newport we put toSea, failingout of the Har-
bour, and intending for England ; but the wind being ve-
ry high and contrary, after having been at Sea all the night,
and had ieifure to take notice of the great number of Sands
upon that Coaft, in the morning we put into Mardiie ,
whereat prefent there is only a Fort of Wood juft above
the High-water mark, with fome few Guns mounted, The
other Fort, more into the Land, being demolished.

Dunkirk is much increafed of late, and the King of
Trance hath not fpared mony to render it confiderably
fhong. He hath very neaf finished a noble Citadel, begun
by the Englijb while this Town was in their poffeffion ,
which hath the Sea on one fide of it, the Haven on another,
and the Sandhills towards the Land, which when the wind
is at South-weft, doth fomewhat annoy it; To prevent
which, the French have made divers Cuts and Chanels
through the Sands , into which the Sea entring, doth raoi-
ften and fix the Sand, foas they are not fo apt to fly. And

every

( r 7 9 } v

every Eaflionis fprucely kept and covered within wirfr
green Turf. Beyond the old Wall of the Town , there
are now great Works drawn , which encompafs fo large
a fpaceof Ground, that the Town is made bigger by
half: And in this pare ftands the Englijh Nunnery , and
many handfome Buildings. The new Fortifications are
very large ; and the Baltion towards the North the moll
(lately , upon which the King of France entertained the
Duke of Monmouth. The Port is large, and capable of
receiving a great number of Ships, but at low water it is
almoft dry 5 and there are fo many Sands before it, that at
that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of
iu

From Dunkirk^ we travelled by Land to Gravelings
where the Works are of Earth, large and high, the Church
(lately, the Streets broad, but the Houfes low, and at
prefent not populous.

From Graveling I came to Calais, from whence fetting
Sail in the morning , we came to Dover , and the fame day
to London.

FINIS.

\

A Catalogue of fome Books Printed for BenfTooke at the
Ship in St. Paul's Church- yard,

THe Works of the Mofe Reverend Father in God,
John Brainhail,to(f L.Arch-Eijh . of Ardmagh. Fol.
Several ChirurgicalTreatifes , Richard Wifeman Serje-

ant Chimrgion to bis Majefey. Fol.

Skinneri Etymologicon Lingua Anglican*, Fol.

Bijhop SenderfonV Sermons . Fol.

Bentivolio and Urania, by N. Ingelo, D.D . Fol.

Mr, Faringdon’i Sermons compleat^ Three Fol, Fol.

Dr, Heylin onthe Creed, Fol.

Lord Bacon V Advancement of Learning, Fol.

Lightfoot, Her a Hebraic £ in Johannem. Quarto.

Dr . BrownV Travels in Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria^ Mace-
donia, Theflaly, Auftria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola,
and Friuli, with Sculptures. Quarto.

A Pa prefect at ion of the State of CbrifeianityinlLnghr\d,and
of its decay ami danger from Sectaries as wed as Papijls.
Langhornii FAemhus Anti quit at um Albionenfium . Od.
Batei Elenchus Motuum Nuperorum in Anglia.

$obannis Ste&rne de Obftinatione Opus Poflhumum .Prafixa
funt Prolegomena Apologetic a. Odavo.

Two Letters of Advice; i For fufeeptionof H. Orders. 2. For
Studies Theological, e fpe dally fuch as are Rational, Od.
Seme Confederations of prefent Concernment, how far the Ro -
manifts may be trufled by Princes of another Perfwafeon . 8.
Two feyort Difcourfes again]} the Romanifes. 1. An Account
of the Fundamental Principle of Popery }and of the Inef-
ficiency of the Proofs they have for it. 2. An Anfwer to
Six Queries, 12. Thefe four by Henry Dodwell Mo A .
fern crimes Fellow of Trinity Cod edge near Dublin.